A Suburban Propane 55' Tank Car.  I know Bachmann only makes a 40' but this would be a good place to start making 55' tanks.

A Green and Yellow Maine Central S4 or S2 DCC with Sound

UPDATE:   Taking the shell off was easy, 5 screws.  The headlight in question was missing a double light lens piece that covers the hole, same as the other end which I saw after removing the shell.  Bachmann didn't have any lens pieces so I made my own drilling 2 lil holes on top of each other in a lil plastic piece I had and glued it in the shell. 

I have a DCC no sound RS3 with the same headlight problem.  One end (cab) extends about a half inch over the bulb.  I'm thinking maybe the shell is on Backwards?   Another sound RS3 I had was good.  So, Bachman, do you think the shell is on backwards?     Someday I'll try and reverse it and see.  From what I've read it isn't easy.

I want to switch shells on 2 of my RS 3s.  One is DCC sound and the other is DCC.  How do the shells come off??  I don't see any screws and my paperwork doesn't explain it either. 
Thanks

I had to take this apart because the red Stop button was stuck closed.  6 screws in the base and 6 more for the circuit board and the buttons appear.  I loosened the button and screwed the circuit board back on and tested ALL the buttons to make sure they were OK.  I put the base on and now the 6 and 9 buttons are tight.  Loosened the circuit board screws and put back the base.  It's ok now but I can't tighten the base completely.  There's a crack where the pieces come together at the wires.  If I tighten anything too much, some buttons will stick.  I just don't like the open crack.  Anyone have this problem?  Bach man?? 
Thanks

I did solve the problem with Fox Valley passenger light strips.  Applied with double sided foam tape.  Easy and works great,  3 round batteries(included) is all the power.  Wave the magnet wand over 1 end and they're on.  Wave it again and they're off.  Nice LED lights. Constant.

I will  fix these lights.  The 2 wires attach to 2 little metal bars down the window to a connection on the floor.  I just have to get these little wires set to connect on each side to the floor.  Very tiny wires to work with.

Quote from: Piyer on January 27, 2018, 04:15:28 PM
You may have a screw loose... on the car, that is. Disassembly and inspection is your only option for figuring that out.

The screw does not tighten all the way.  Enough to hold the coupler but not tight like the other coupler.  The inside seems ok but I might have to add the coupler box and dismantle the arm to the truck.

I have a coupler box that sags.  The whole box sags, not just the coupler.  It's a Spectrum older passenger car.  The box turns with the trucks so maybe the connection of the box and truck arm inside is loose?  Anyone have this problem?  Any fixes?
Thanks

This time of year is probably pretty busy.  I've waited about 1 week for an EZ Command repair, which they just replaced and 2 weeks for a loco repair. 

I opened a Spectrum passenger car and the light wires were both off.  These wires are tiny and seem tough to re-solder.  Any ideas?  

Quote from: the Bach-man on November 05, 2017, 09:32:16 PM
Dear Plint,
The roof and windows are a one piece casting which slides down into the carbody.
Push the tabs up and lift off the roof and windows.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Not too much fun.  The tabs seem too tight and I don't want to break them

I added Kadees to an older Spectrum passenger car but they sag too low.  I added some paper shim and it solved the problem.  So..what is the best fix for this?  The paper won't last so I was wondering if there is a better way?

How do you add lights?  LED kits?