Hi Dave;

A big issue with the motor you are asking about for application in HO model trains is the rpm range.  Most "diesel" types like your turbine have 40" or 42" drivers and stock gear ratios in the 10:1 to 14:1 range, which with a 10000 rpm motor (@12V) results in a top speed in the 85 to 120 mph range.

The motor you are considering with result in a top speed in the 10 to 15 mph range with typical gearing.  Most of us would want a turbine to be capable of much higher speeds.

I looked through the website you listed, and could not find a suitable motor.  You may want to look at:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-339/6-18-VDC-MOTOR/1.html

NWSL and others offer flywheels and driveline parts for 2.0mm shafts.

I am not positive, but I believe that KTM made your model.  Give NWSL a telephone call about replacement axles and gears for much smoother running.

As noted; Bachmann does not repair in the USA, except very very minor - they replace.

Look at this way, burden labor in the USA is at least $50- per hour; and much higher most places.  So they can only afford to spend 10 minutes on a locomotive - including re-packing.  And a brand new model really costs Bachmann on the order of 20% of MSRP.

Quote from: winjie on March 25, 2010, 10:15:07 PM
....... How do you program this unit with EZ command. .....

You can't.  If the unit has been changed from address 3; and you can't issue a total reset to factory defaults, you are stuck.  Read the Atlas manual to determine how to do a total reset.  After you have successfully accomplished that, the address should be 03, which will work on EZ Command, and you should be able to change the address to other addresses whch EZ Command supports.

Hi Coli;

The lettering is pad printed using the same type of paint (just different color) as the model is painted with.

erasers and q-tip techniques are the most likely to succeed - if those fail, it is strip and repaint.  91% Isopropyl Alcohol will most likely remove the paint with some rubbing.

Hi Jonathan;

Looks great!!

Have you seen John Swanson's series on Steam from Kits that appeared in RMC many years (decades) ago?  You should try to get those issues for more ideas on your fleet.   

The building bug is just starting to get hold of you 

Re-orange peel - could be several things; 1st - cleanliness of the model; should be cleaned with solvent (isopropyl alcohol is good) and pickeled in vingear (see Bowser's instruction sheets).  next paint too thick

Yes, I had one, sold it many years ago.  The tender was much larger than the locomotive.

The drive belt may of taken a set.

It may need cleaning, and very very light lubrication of the bearings and gears.

After cleaning, and very light lubrication with plastic compatible oil and grease, such as Bachmann's products, run the model for an extended period at slow to medium speeds, in both directions - this will take care of any set in the drive belt.

Quote from: J3a-614 on March 14, 2010, 01:50:40 AM
.......
I recall an article (I have it, I think it may have been Railroad Model Craftsman, or maybe it's the Mainline Modeler issue mentioned above, but I only have 25 or so paper boxes filled with magazines--would take a while to find it) about building this RDC.  Like the prototype, the author used engines from an airplane (model); the scale wasn't exact, but was close enough........

In the Mainline Modeler article, Bob used a twin pod from a 1/72 scale B-47 model.

See also:
NYC Jet-Powered RDC: 183 mph experiment
Mainline Modeler, March 1988 page 48
( "BOUDREAU, BOB", JET, NYC, RDC, MM )

An HO scale model.

Quote from: Atlantic Central on March 12, 2010, 05:16:09 PM
First off, the Proto2000 model is not a Y6b, it is a Y3 or, if not lettered N&W simply a USRA 2-8-8-2.

......

Sheldon, not entirely correct; P2K offered models of the N&W Y3/Y3a locomotives that went to AT&SF, PRR and UP during WWII, and the VGN (ex AT&SF).  There are distinct differences between these, and the run of the mill USRA 2-8-8-2.

To the original poster; if you want a Y6b; BLI is the only current model; there are a large number of the Rivarossi Y6b models floating around, but unless you have pretty good modeling skills, I would suggest that you avoid.  The P2K offers (-ed) models of the N&W Y3/Y3a and USRA 2-8-8-2.  As a N&W modeler, if both BLI and P2K models, as they represent different locomotives.  I also have a couple Oriental Powerhouse Y3/Y3a models - they run better and pull more than the P2K, but are severely lacking in details compared to either the P2K or BLI models.

A highliter often works well, and you can put on additional coats after each dries.

Bowser recently added an on-line store with literally thousands of parts:

http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/cat/HO%20Bowser%20Parts

If you want a USRA Light 2-10-2; it is great model - if you don't want one.....

Quote from: J3a-614 on March 06, 2010, 08:40:53 AM
I have to ask, what are you going to use for tenders?  The N&W rounded top jobs are fairly common in larger sizes (Life-Like 2-8-8-2s), but what about smaller ones?

The last two E2 locomotives in operation had large tenders, which allowed the elimination of some water towers.  My focus is 1950 - 1955; when there were only the two left.  I have brass tenders from a WSM N&W E3 4-6-2 and a Sunset N&W K3 4-8-2, in addition to one from a P2K 2-8-8-2; for projects. 

A few years back, Model Railroading ran a series on converting a Spectrum PRR K4 into a N&W E3.  One of the articles in the series was on making a Bachmann A tank into the tender - actually reversing the process the N&W used to create the A-tanks.  This method is adaptable to the present Spectrum A-tank, which will result in a better model than what was published.

If you are working on an earlier era E2, the USRA tender, originally on the K2 (USRA Heavy 4-8-2) works for the 1930's.

Edit/Addition:
I have been looking through my stuff, hadn't really had a good opportunity to do so in the last 5+ years, and came across a pair of brass Lewis trucks for N&W tenders.  I purchased them before the Spectrum A-tank came out - which has really nice trucks.

I also found a Kemtron Vanderbilt "kit" - really a bunch of parts, and a single sided sheet of suggestions for the pieces not included.  For example - there is a picture of the trucks, and a statement - solder sideframes to bolster.  It does include wheels 

And three pairs of Kato RSC2 trucks that I were intended to be part of tender boosters, because their wheelbase is close to typical Buckeye and Commonwealth three axle tender trucks.

The NYC K11 is also very close to the N&W E2 4-6-2.  I have a couple of Bowser models that are destined to become E2.  I also have a NWSL E2a for comparison.

Like the PA and K11, the first E2 locomotives were Alco products.

There have been several good articles is the mr mags over the years on making super structures, includuing at least two in Mainline Modeler using plastic.