Can I make my own with standard terminals and wire from Radio Shack or are the 10' wires Bachmann sellls the better option?  I'd need more than one of each, preferrably in different lengths.  I get the feeling I should simply cut the wires and revert to standard wiring techniques splicing the connectors back on where I need to.

So many of these questions seem stupid to me, but I want to know how to do things right with E-Z Track before I start snipping connectors off wires.  The wire for the terminal/rerailer that came with the Empire Builder Set has 2 connectors, one flat to fit the track slot and one earphone-type to fit the controller slot.  However, the wire that came with the straight terminal/rerailer I purchased separately came with the same flat connector, but no earphone-type connector.  In its place are 2 standard electrical connectors, the same that come with the red red wire for the turnout remotes.

My questions are:

- how do I connect these type of connectors to the controller?
- do I splice it to the other wire with the earphone-type connector?  The instructions for using 2 turnouts for a crossover seem to suggest this approach, but the diagram leaves a lot to be desired.
- do I cut enough wire off the earphone-type connector leaving enough to run to a splicing board of some sort where I can add more terminal tracks?
- or do I need a separate power pack with standard screw terminals on it?
- will the standard controller even support multiple terminal tracks?  If so, how many?

I bought 2 left and 2 right switches hoping to set up a test layout with 2 through sidings.  Got it all put together and as soon as I flip the left switch on one of the sidings, the train stops.  Tried the other siding, same thing.  I asked a question in another forum, but I must have phrased it wrong because they told me a needed gaps and a 2nd power connection.  I then happened to see a set with a siding and asked the guy at the hobby shop if there was any special wiring needed,  He said "No", so I started fiddling.

I finally found I need to flip the other switch first and it all works, sort of, it only works intermittently.  So I took the back off and saw a bunch of wires that looked like strays coming off the electromagnet.  They were all attached, so that wasn't the problem.  Tried it again, no luck.  Took another switch apart and they looked pretty much the same.  I did see a red wire that looked like a problem, so I changed its position a bit.  Got it all back together and it all works, except for one that doesn't seem to want to stay set.  As the train passes over, it moves about 1/16th of an inch or less each pass and eventually moves enough to cause a derailment.  Is there anything simple I can do to make it stay in place?  I haven't looked at it yet, so i might be able to figure something out, but I wanted to ask first.

BTW, I know I can wired the switch remotes together to flip both switcheds at the same time, but just haven't gotten that far.

I am so disappointed with this set.

First was the caboose consistently derailing any car in front of it, can't even hook it up.

Next was the loco derailing a lot and  losing power for a herky-jerky operation.  I got a 30+ yr old diesel I got at Kay Bee Toys back in the 70's (been in a box in the garage since 1978) and it runs smoothly over the same track.

Then, after I added a turnout, I found the loco could not back into the siding.  Turned out the trailing truck was not level, seemed like a washer or something was missing from the mount.  The rear steps were below the top of the rails causing one side step to try going straight and the other side step try following the curve of the turnout.  As soon as the tracks got far enough apart, the loco just stopped.  Added a small washer I had and it now goes through the turnout, but it's still off.  The front truck bounces and keeps losing power.  I have to turn the controller up to about 40 to even get the loco to move and nothing seems to happen over 70 or so.  It's just very slow and quirky, slows when it hits the curved terminal/rerailer.  Some of that is probably my fault as the washer is probably not the right size and I've been trying to adjust things to get the darned thing to make a circuit or 2.

Oh yeah, also found a tire laying on the table the other day and then the other one came off in my hand while I was reattaching the truck.  I got those remounted and I've tried adjusting the tension on the truck mounting screws without success.  When I place the loco on the table and look closely, it seems the loco is tilted ever so slightly to the rear causing the front wheels to lift enough to lose connection and the front set of the 8 wheels seems to be just above the rail.

Just venting I guess, so I don't know what I expect in the way of comments.