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Discussion Boards => HO => Topic started by: andras on January 21, 2008, 12:19:25 PM

Title: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: andras on January 21, 2008, 12:19:25 PM
Can anyone give a newbie some tips for adding a decoder to a P2k 0-8-0 please?

All the wires are carried to the tender via a plug-and-socket, but once in the tender there's an array of electronic parts (diodes mainly) which I presume are related to the lamps. All the wires are already coded correctly for DCC, interestingly enough.

Is it safe to just install a decoder in place of the current electronics, or do I need to fiddle about more?

TIA!
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: SteamGene on January 21, 2008, 01:44:33 PM
1.  Open tender
2.  Remove shorting plug
3.  Fit decoder.
4.  Test, then program without tender shell
5.  Fit tender shell.
6.  Have a drink of your beverage of choice and run the locomotive. 
(A bit more complicated with sound)
Gene
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: richG on January 21, 2008, 05:24:21 PM
Here is a little additional info.
http://www.gatewaynmra.org/dcc/dccdecoders.htm#spectrum

An installation in a Life Like tender. Not sure if is like your tender.
http://litchfieldstation.com/lobby/hoss_ll_2-8-8-2.htm

If it has the NMRA eight pin connector, you should be able to plug in directly.

Rich
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: DaveS on January 21, 2008, 11:19:18 PM
I recently put in a Soundtraxx DSD LL080LC decoder in an 0-6-0. It is supposed to work the same as with the 0-8-0 and is advertised as plug n play.  The tender is smaller so in fact it was more difficult to put in the speaker, but I did it and as this was only my 3rd install and the first that required a soldering iron, I was very proud of myself. Everything worked fine. As they say just go for it.
A word of caution though on this decoder, I can't get rid of motor hum and it turns out this decoder is an older design that doesn't have back EMF. The hum is just way it is. I was able to reduce it but I find it annoying.
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: andras on January 22, 2008, 04:23:41 AM
Thanks, folks. I suspected it would be an easy one, but didn't want to blow a decoder finding out I was wrong!

John
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: SteamGene on January 22, 2008, 08:09:13 AM
Hmm, the tender for the USRA 0-6-0 should be the same as for the USRA 0-8-0.  Both used the USRA small tender.  The 4-6-2 originally was going to have the small as well, but it received the medium, as did the 4-8-2, making the Bahmann heavy Mountain's tender incorrect for as delivered. 
Gene
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: richG on January 22, 2008, 09:17:27 AM
Quote from: DaveS on January 21, 2008, 11:19:18 PM
I recently put in a Soundtraxx DSD LL080LC decoder in an 0-6-0. It is supposed to work the same as with the 0-8-0 and is advertised as plug n play.  The tender is smaller so in fact it was more difficult to put in the speaker, but I did it and as this was only my 3rd install and the first that required a soldering iron, I was very proud of myself. Everything worked fine. As they say just go for it.
A word of caution though on this decoder, I can't get rid of motor hum and it turns out this decoder is an older design that doesn't have back EMF. The hum is just way it is. I was able to reduce it but I find it annoying.

I have the DSD-090LC and DSD-100LC  with the same issue. I have replaced them with a MIcro-Tsunami. What a difference. I buy most of my DCC from Bruce at Litchfield Station. Tony's is good also.

Rich
Title: Re: Adding DCC to a Proto 2k 0-8-0
Post by: DaveS on January 22, 2008, 11:17:56 PM
Gene,
I guess I should have been more explicit. The only difference was the height of the coal load. The 0-8-0 has a higher coal box(?) so there isn't much room for the speaker in the 0-6-0, at least in my version. I couldn't use the speaker baffles.