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Messages - Yampa Bob

#31
HO / Re: Default CV Values
June 29, 2009, 09:33:46 PM
Note that the PDF is for the small decoder used in Bachmann steam locomotives. The "decoder integrated into the light board" used in diesel models may have different values, and some CVs may not be supported.
#32
HO / Re: Default CV Values
June 29, 2009, 09:19:41 PM
Default values for Bachmann (by Lenz) decoders:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/ez_content/1_Amp_Decoder_Instr.pdf
#33
HO / Re: 2662
June 29, 2009, 04:36:53 AM
The best I can do is refer you to the exploded parts diagram that came with the locomotive.

Other members with knowledge of how to remove the shell might comment. With the shell off you might be able to detect the problem, might just need lubricating. 

Unless you have experience in working on this type of loco, if you can't fix the problem with a complete lubrication, suggest you contact Bachmann service department about returning it for repair or replacement.

Regards.
#34
HO / Re: 2662
June 29, 2009, 03:22:23 AM
RB,
Please indicate manufacturer and stock number.

Thanks
#35
Thanks Josh.
I'm glad you're not a "normal" 13 year old, more like "exceptional". I loved your little script.  :D

Bob
#36
HO / Re: MTH Daylight
June 29, 2009, 02:16:13 AM
Rick,
I posted a thread on making force gauges, but I took it down some time ago. Seems some modelers aren't motivated to really fine tune their locomotives and cars.

I mainly did it to dispel all the rumors that Bachmann locos aren't good pullers. You know my feelings about those who make claims that aren't backed up with testing and facts. (Think "Oscar Mayer")

If you consider the time and effort to make one, I suggest just buying the ready made. They are not a "laboratory standard" by any means, but usually accurate within 1/8 ounce, close enough for train testing. A variance of 1/8 ounce only amounts to 1 car more or less, no big deal.

I test both pull and push force of locos, for cars I hook 10 together and expect a total required pulling force of 1 ounce or less.  Properly tuned cars exhibit little to no increased pulling resistance going around my 18" curves. It's all about tuning so as not to disturb the natural kinematics of railcars. Again, it's a physical science in which many modelers have no interest.

Anyway, I'll send you my tutorials, pictures and test results to give you some ideas. I assume your system can read Wordpad .rtf files?
#37
General Discussion / Re: Most Beautiful Locomotive
June 29, 2009, 01:33:28 AM
I'll let this run for a few more days, then try to tabulate it all. "Most" means one nominee per member, some are "stuffing" the ballot box with quotes of the same picture.  >:(   :D

BTW, did I mention I hate quotes???    :D
#38
HO / Re: Poll Results
June 29, 2009, 12:38:25 AM
Great job Rusty, thanks. I think your median of 64 sq. ft. is dead on. Seems many are building L shapes with two sheets of plywood, which would fit nicely in a 12' X 16' room.

As PD mentioned; there is no "right way", just the "fun way" for each modeler.

In my "Most beautiful locomotive" poll, I don't think there is a clear winner. Everyone has a different favorite, very few duplications. I might at some point do a tabulation of steam vs. diesel.  Bottom line, they are all beautiful.

Nice thing about this board, no matter what the topic, everyone loves to contribute. Running trains is fun, sharing makes it all the better.   
#39
Not enough lighting? Yeah, takes a lot of lighting to look in your dark wallet to see there is not enough money:D

#40
Thanks Robert.

Congratulations, the XPR is tops. Now you can drop subtle hints about all the great accessories.  :D
#41
General Discussion / Re: Hello again freinds
June 28, 2009, 11:26:18 PM
Hi James, welcome back. Please keep us posted on your layout and projects. Sounds like you have lots to keep you busy.   :D

Bob   8)
#42
For bench work I suggest the corded AC power unit with the flex shaft adapter. When I do polishing work I sometimes run the tool for an hour at a time.

To work on your layout, clamp a length of wood upright to the frame and hang the tool from a hook.
#43
Robert,
This is what I use:
Dremel 300 series variable speed rotary tool kit:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXSR7&P=7

Flex shaft, a must have for close work.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC523&P=7

Universal keyless chuck, saves changing collets.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNU47&P=ML



Other accessories, kit is cheaper than buying individual pieces.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRDJ2&P=ML

Drill press, I use it occasionally, a luxury item.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJNF6&P=7

Flex shaft tool stand. Another luxury item, I don't have one, just hang the tool on a wall hook or nail.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC526&P=V



Best hand tool for cutting circuit boards, plastics, soft metal, track. Wide blade works great for chopping car bodies.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKZ17&P=7

Another must have razor saw set.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX96&P=7

Hand saw blades for tight places, great for cutting off coupler boxes.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKY31&P=ML
#44
Robert,
Just received the pictures, thanks. Looks good so far, you might want to post the picture with the speaker in place.

The FTA looks like a good candidate for any sound system, including Tsunami. I may try an install myself.  8)