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Messages - timhar47

#16
Hi,

Yes - NCE meant NCE DCC simple system. Used with previous HO layout.

Didnt measure track voltage as the HO worked fine. I took everything off the HO layout (small layout) and 'jumper-wired' from that track to the N gauge  4  pieces of unitrack (new). All I wanted to do was to be sure the engine ran.

The engine doesnt start moving until the throttle is at 12-14. I also cant break it in, I just had 4 pieces of 9" unitrack set up - no layout yet

Have not looked at any settings, as I assumed it would run normal out of the box, and I am not real familiar with messing with the settings.
The Bachmann notes say its preset to 28 speed step
#17
Hello - my PRR RS3 just came. Its my first N Engine in my switching back to N. I hooked up 4 pieces of unitrack, and the NCE and while it does run, it wont move (just hums) until the throttle is up to like 14. Is this normal or do I have a bad engine? Or is there a setting thats wrong? (I havent programmed anything yet on it)

Thanks - Tim
#18
I have just seen the new F7's available from MB Klein, and noticed, that again, these are described as 'unnumbered'. Is there a logical reason why this is now happening (FA2, RF16, now F7) ? Most people have a real difficult time applying numbers to number boards alone, w/o trying to match the style on the engine lettering.
#19
So - heres a novice question - since its an A and a B, there is no headlight to worry about in the B, the horn & bell turned off - what stops one from having them both set at the same loco address? Wouldnt that also work?
#20
I hope they improve the electrical pickup - the older 4-6-2 only hits the 2 outer drivers. Now working on using the tender pickup as additional to the dcc chip.
#21
Hello - I got the engine today. Its simple just as the TCS site describes the 4-8-2. However, there is a small Capacitor across the motor windings - should this be removed as part of the DCC conversion?
#22
This is from the Tsunami website. Under Bachman  (its CV128)

http://www.soundtraxx.com/factory/OEM%20pages/bachmann/ho_fa2_sv.pdf

By the way - I was wondering, how well does it sound with 2 of these running together? Is it distinctly heard like there are 2? I was considering a B unit for my FA.
#23
Thanks, if the 4 wires are like that - it would be easy work then. I just dont want to get into the kind where you have to remove the drivers. Too much worry about getting proper positioning back in -  I knew that they go under a barrage of names - Mehano, IHC, RSO, Premier.

#24
Hello - considering a Mehano Pacific loco (M9921) and was wondering how difficult is the DCC conversion? I found a old thread on this topic here, but it ended without any instructions, I guess maybe they sent them another way.
I saw the TCC pix on a 4-8-2 which looks do-able, if the 4-6-2 is the same deal - motor already isolated, dont have to remove the drive wheels (i dont want anything to do with that kind of work)

Thanks so much - Tim
#25
HO / Re: ALCO S-2 turbo sounds
February 28, 2013, 11:53:55 PM
They are great. Unfortunately, like a lot of the BACHMANN sound value - they are disappearing. Whats with the not restocking these engine lines (RS3, S-2, FA2) BACHMANN? You are providing a product that is comfortable to the pocketbook, that may be the only sound equipped engines some of us can afford.
#26
HO / Re: Making Roads
February 28, 2013, 11:48:47 PM
Articles used to talk about this product - Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. Also Sculptamod is available on Amazon Prime. And there is the tarpaper method - the hobby shop product is a 36" roll 3 pieces of painted tarpaper, but one could always cut their own at a cheaper cost.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/durham-s-rock-hard-du-4-4-lb-water-putty-du-4.html
#27
HO / Re: DCC GP 9's - RF16 SHARK ALSO?
February 26, 2013, 10:44:47 PM
Is the Bachmann Shark in the same category, having the speaker opening etc?
#28
I am not real up on DCC yet, but logically, 124 seems to me ike it would fall into the 'extended' address (four digit range) which, on the NCE is a separate choice to make before you enter in the 124.
#29
HO / Re: How can I remove the shell on a FB2.
February 17, 2013, 08:56:40 PM
BE AWARE - With the FA2 unit, one has to take off the front coupler, also you have to pull the rear up first, then ease the front out. (Not sure about the FB2 - maybe it will do easier then the A unit.)
I actually had a very difficult time getting the 'A' shell back on, due to the excessive protruding metal lip of the front coupler box. I could not get the angle needed to get it back in. I gave up, and cut off a small bit (with wire nippers) of the screw retainer posts, enough to allow the shell back on. The screw still worked fine. But then maybe I had a strange FA2
#30
HO / Re: Question for Mr. Bachmann
February 17, 2013, 08:48:56 PM
Trainworld (www.trainworld.com) has listed them in the flyer I just got yesterday. 2-10-2 Southern w/DCC on Board #83304 = Southern #5212 and #83305 = Southern #5224. at $89.99

Also listed is a 2-10-0 DCC/Sound undecorated at $149

All Bachmann