Victory is mine again. my turns are 22. it is stamped on the bottom of the track. what I found when I looked under the loco. the wheels were not pressed on all the way to the axles. you could see a few thousandths between the back stop on the axles and the inside of the wheels. they were not all the way on, so the flange on both sides of the wheels were right up against the inside of the track at all times. so what I did was took all the wheels off and pressed them on all the way. that may seem a bit extreme being brand new out of the box under warren tee. but I was reading here on this board some other guys sent there's back to Bachann for the same reason, and got it back with the same problem. they weren't to happy about that. so I fixed it on my own. I am very glad I did. made a world of a difference. it's a great addition to my layout . smooth runner. strong puller. all I can say is if you are going to get one. turn it over and make sure the wheels are all the way on the axles. other wize you work is cut out for you if you decide to fix it your self. all the side rods, and all ten drivers must come off. my next project will be to change out those yellow led's to white led's. I can't recall ever hering of trains having yellow head lites? I am just a scale freak, what can I say...I also read that, that can't be done with out braking parts. wish me luck,, lol  thanks you guys for your input, and taking the time out to help me. I am off to brake in my new steamer 

I am not sure how to determine my turn radius. I can tell you what I did. I used atlas sections that push together as a templet. marked the layout with the templet. then replaced it with the old type brass flex track. I then ran my big boy threw it okay. then the mallet, 2-8-8-2. even ran the dd40ax. just to make sure there wasn't any side swiping going on. there are 3 tracks side by side. the wires don't seem to be tight. the back of the engine never comes off the track. just the pilot truck and the first 2 drivers. there is only 1 driver not flanged in the center. just like the Rivarossi 2-10-2. that thing will run around the track like a slot car. 300 mph lol.. never derails. I just got a spectrum 2-10-0. it works great. I red somewhere that the 2-10-2 was far better then the 2-10-0. so I got one. it is now the worst engine on my layout. it looks great, runs great in the strait track. is why I am determined to make it work. I was going to get a 2-10-4, and a 4-12-2,   now I am having second thoughts. I am just surprised that the Rivarossi 2-10-2 cheap junk loco, with it's over flanged wheels, and buzzing loud motor. runs threw the tack 10 times better then the spectrum 2-10-2. the wheels on the spectrum don't seem to have the travel left to right it needs to get threw the turns. the pilot truck has room to move forward with out the worry of hitting the cow catcher. I have over 50 steamers. all of them make it threw the tracks with out problem. my layout is 4 X 10. consist of 3 live tracks running 3 trains at the same time. the out side track with the bridge is oval. wide turns. track is 1/2 inch from the edge. the inside tracks go through a 2 track bridge on an slant, resulting in an S turn. still on the outside track. there should be plenty of room to run. like I said. with the pilot off the engine. it works great. I could resolve the problem by replacing 2 more of the flanged wheels with non flanged wheels. but then the stress on the front and back drivers would be to much on the side rods. good buy warrante. I didn't yet check the wheels with a micrometer. as soon as I am done here, that's were I'm going.

I just got a new 2-10-2 yesterday. when I go to run it. the pilot truck comes off and derails the train. I am running on the same turns my 2-8-8-2 + rossy 2-10-2 + 4-8-4 and then some. all have no problem. however, I can see the pilot wheels hits the piston cylinder. it seems the arm were it is screwed on under the loco is a bit to short??? when I take off the pilot it runs great. I know if it was moved up about 1/8 of a inch. that would solve the problem. but being new and under warren tee, that would not be to smart lol,,, dose any one know if there was a possible recall on that part? or a common mod that needs to be done? I could go one or too ways with this problem. the cylinders can be notched so the wheels don't hit them, like mantua did with there Rodgers 4-6-0 & 4-8-0. but that doesn't look scale. and would void the warren tee. or find a longer pilot. bottom line is I am asking you guys if there is an EZ fix, and or am I the only one having this problem? my turns are wide, and much bigger engines run on that track. carefully looking at the pilot from the side on track. the wheels look like they to far back. I know some of you are going to tell me there are 2 holes in the pilot arm. it is mounted in the last hole. and there isn't another hole under the engine to move it up to. before the day is done. I am going to try a longer one from my parts draw. or fabricate one if necessary. it's going nice and smooth threw the turns and switch's with out the pilot truck mounted. but a 0-10-2 is not the answer,,, lol

VICTORY IS MINE!!!!    I got it off. my lite was not an LED. but it is now. the running boards on my 2-10-0 had to come off in order to free the shell . there is a compressor mounted to a stud that is part of the motor frame. that fit under the running board. locked in. also there was a peace under the boiler that gets glued in place after the shell is put on. I did have to glue that back. it's part of the shell. I very carefully, with the tip of my exact o knife broke free the glue one by one, the studs from on the running boards. that freed the shell. and that other peace snapped off in tacked to. I must say. I have fixed many many ho steam engines for years now. this one was the hardest to get apart I have ever done. if not for the glue. it would be a peace of cake for the experienced micro Sergent. witch is what we are,, lol . if you don't have great eye sight, and steady hands. this job is not for you. also a good time to oil the motor. mine looked dry. the next time it needs oil. the shell has to come off again... I did not glue the running boards back. there on there good with out the glue. I want to thank you guys for you help and input. this board is a good way we can help one and other. I like this!!

thank you for your time and tip's. my big problem is the running boards on the sides of the shell are glued on. they must come off to remove it. and I took off the smoke box cover. the bulb is at the end of it's wire. no play..I thought if I could pull it out a bitand change it. the bulb looks good. but the ohm meter reads open. I am thinking the wires going to the bulb?? it would be a snap if I could get the running boards off. I just can't see how to get them off with out braking it. strong glue. I was lucky with the smoke box door. I stuck a small screw driver behind the lip, and gave it a whack with another tool and it popped off in one peace. there is also another plastic peace under the boiler that must come off. it to is glued and painted over. I think I can snap that off. but I don't want the trash the shell. for now I put it aside, pending what I find out here. I think a new shell cost 40 bucks. or I would brake it off and get a new one. and I'm not even sure if it comes with the running boards??the whole thing is apart now. just can't get the shell off. you can bet I will be replacing it with a LED. what I thought would be a simple thing, turned into a night mare ... PS the lite never worked from day one out of the box. the backup lite works great... Murphy's law!! if it was the other way around, I could care less,, lol

HELP!!!! SOS!!! LOL CAN SOME ONE SHOW ME THE WAY ?? I NEED TO CHANGE MY LITE BULB IN MY  2-10-0 RUSSIAN DECAPOD STEAM LOCO = ITEM # 81703 ?? THIS IS A TOUGH ONE, I GOT AS FAR AS THE BOILER OFF THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY. IT SEEMS TO BE GLUED TOGETHER? I DON'T WANT TO FORCE IT. THE AIR COMPRESSOR IS HELD IN PLACE BY THE CAT WALK. THAT SEEMS TO BE GLUED ON. ALSO PART # 00C01 SEEMS TO BE HOLDING THE SHEL IN PLACE. THAT ALSO LOOKS TO BE GLUED ON. ?? I TRIED POPPING OF THE SMOKE BOX COVER, IN THE HOPE I COULD MAYBE PULL THE BULB OUT FAR ENOUGH TO SOLDER A NEW ONE ON,,,,NG.... THE BULB DON'T BUDGE. THE BULB LOOKS GOOD ANYWAY. I AM THINKING MAYBE THE WIRE GOT PINCHED IN THE FRAME???. I DON'T WANT TO BRAKE ANY THING. COULD YOU GUYS TELL ME HOW TO CHANGE MY BULB? AT THIS POINT, I AM SURE GOING TO REPLACE IT WITH A LED. DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO TAKE IT APART AGAIN... LOL . I LIKE A GOOD CHALLENGE. I SURE GOT ONE HERE. BY THE WAY, I'M NOT YELLING, THE CAP LOCK WAS ON AND I JUST KEPT TYPING. MY PHONE = 845-514-9507. MY EMAIL = ALYCASELLI@HOTMAIL.COM.. THANKS BACHMANN. YOU MAKE THE BEST HO TRAINS ON EARTH. I HAVE OVER 100 STEAM ENGINES. ALL MAKES AND MODELS. NOTHING RUNS AS GOOD AS YOUR SPECTRUM LINE. 10 THUMBS UP,,,, GREAT STUFF.