Hi to all , I'm a beginner for railroad (and in the forum) and I wish have a little help.
I have some broken couplers in (HO) passenger coaches (McKinley Explorer) and I don't know the type of couplers to choose for replacing them (mark II, medium shank?). ...
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank's
Perikles
If you need to replace broken couplers, then buy Kadee #5s. You will never have a broken coupler again.
Gene
Will a #5 fit on the back bottom of my 2-10-2 tender? It's a small box & screw. Like this... (thanks Yampa Bob)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/11gku1t.jpg)
What size to replace that rear coupler?
Okie?
I just took the cover off a USRA Medium, the Kadee #148 Whisker is a drop in replacement. It's the same as #5 except with built in springs.
The way the box is molded I don't think there's room for the #5 spring. I had to back off the screw a bit to keep from binding the coupler.
A number 5 will fit.
Gene
Well, now I have a question. I read on another topic that you could'nt just drop in a Bachmann E-Z mate coupler into the same coupler box as the Horn Hook couplers. I have many cars and loco's with Horn Hook couplers, and I want to replace them. Anyone know anything about this, and what type of coupler I should use?
Snip off the coupler box, and glue in a Kadee coupler box with a kadee coupler.
If you are going to replace a coupler, go to Kaydee. It's the safest way to go.
Gene
Gene,
You are correct. I just calipered the shanks at the pivot, #148 is .055" thick, #5 is .050" thick. I don't have any #5 springs, but guess they must be about .005" thick, so either one will work. For me, the 148 assembly is much easier to install.
I cut off/out the factory molded box, and replace with a complete #148 assembly. I drill and tap the floor and fasten the box with a 2-56 machine screw.
A pair of precision flush cutting end nippers does a great job in removing the old box, which is sometimes recessed.
http://www.vigoroptical.com/46058.html
Contact info.
http://www.vigoroptical.com/info.html
I'm starting to use the #148, though I have plenty of #5s. Accurail sent me a bunch of their new C&O gons and the coupler pocket does not accept the spring of the #5 easily. So - try the #148. No disrespect to any other knuckle coupler; I'll use them as long as they work - but when they go bad, Kadee takes their place.
Gene
Quote from: Yampa Bob on March 28, 2009, 03:19:59 AM
I just took the cover off a USRA Medium, the Kadee #148 Whisker is a drop in replacement. It's the same as #5 except with built in springs.
The way the box is molded I don't think there's room for the #5 spring. I had to back off the screw a bit to keep from binding the coupler.
Somewhere during the Sound addition to that 2-10-2 I lost the screw, box and coupler. I need all the works. I haven't purchased Kadee yet - is there a box & screw for the #148?
thanks
Quote from: IndianaJones12 on March 28, 2009, 03:16:02 PM
Well, now I have a question. I read on another topic that you could'nt just drop in a Bachmann E-Z mate coupler into the same coupler box as the Horn Hook couplers. I have many cars and loco's with Horn Hook couplers, and I want to replace them. Anyone know anything about this, and what type of coupler I should use?
I changed all but 4 of my hook-horn cars to knuckle couplers using Scenemaster Couplers:
10 Pair
Walthers Part # 433-1427, p. 259 Walthers 2009 HO Scale Reference
HO scale, $7.98, currently in stock at Walthers
* Works with All Other Knuckle Couplers * Constructed of Tough Engineering Plastic * Magnetic Action * Easy Upgrade for Older Life-Like Train Set Cars
They're cheap and work. Fish out your Hook-Horn & slip these in.
luck-
Rick
Thanks Rick. I'll have to count how many cars and loco's I have that are equipped with Horn-Hook, and see how many of those I have to order.
One other thing. If you have truck mounted couplers. You a better off doing a little extra work and body mount the couplers.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4917.0.html
more info here about knuckle couplers in a pdf form
http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=2089 (http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=2089)
Quote from: OkieRick on March 28, 2009, 11:38:57 PM
Quote from: IndianaJones12 on March 28, 2009, 03:16:02 PM
Well, now I have a question. I read on another topic that you could'nt just drop in a Bachmann E-Z mate coupler into the same coupler box as the Horn Hook couplers. I have many cars and loco's with Horn Hook couplers, and I want to replace them. Anyone know anything about this, and what type of coupler I should use?
I changed all but 4 of my hook-horn cars to knuckle couplers using Scenemaster Couplers:
10 Pair
Walthers Part # 433-1427, p. 259 Walthers 2009 HO Scale Reference
HO scale, $7.98, currently in stock at Walthers
* Works with All Other Knuckle Couplers * Constructed of Tough Engineering Plastic * Magnetic Action * Easy Upgrade for Older Life-Like Train Set Cars
They're cheap and work. Fish out your Hook-Horn & slip these in.
luck-
Rick
Just incase those Scenemasters dont work, what kind of Kadee coupler could I use, #5?
I used the Scenemasters couplers on my old rolling stock that wasn't worth a truck & metal wheels and coupler update. Some of these were also cheap plastic ebay stock that no doubt came with train sets. I haven't had to buy any Kadee yet - the time is getting close though. I need one coupler in a screw on box for the tender of my 2-10-2 Steam locomotive.
But if you do have quite a few hook-horn couplered cars and want to save them these are inexpensive and do work. If your hook-horn has a plastic whisker holding it in these will work. Magnets will uncouple them - I tried this on the first two box cars they were put on.
Luck-
Rick
Kadee #148 comes with snap together boxes.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNLF1&P=SM
If you can snip out the factory box and smooth the floor, position new box and coupler assembly, drill a hole with 1/16" or #50 bit, tap the hole 2-56 and install with a 1/4" long machine screw.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRTJ6&P=SM
Assembling the coupler and box before trying to install makes it a lot easier by hanging onto the coupler.
I buy my machine screws from Fastenal in 100 quantity, keep on hand 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 9/16".
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=28513
Check phone book for a regional outlet near you.
Thanks for the replies. Since I'm only 12 years old, I don't know how to replace the coupler boxes and all that, so I guess I'll just use the Scenemaster.
Hello Everyone:
most of the newer bachmann trains that have the screw on covers for their couplers accept a kadee coupler, just like a few of the other board members stated.
as for rolling stock, bachmann 1998? and up , have screw on coupler covers, athearn cars have snap on covers, proto 1000 ( most of them ) have snap on covers,
where a lot of your older HO scale cars have a truck assembly where a horn hook coupler is mounted, kadee makes an adapter kit that works well if you don't want to chop up the trucks.
also if the rolling stock has plastic wheels, you will want to replace them in the near future, bachmann sells metal replacement wheels, as well as other companies, you jut have to remember 33" or 36", most of your freight cars use 33" while the passenger cars usually have 36".
IHC made a wierd knuckle coupler that works with horn hook and knuckle couplers, they work, but they are a pain to uncouple at times.
as for the bachmann e-z mate couplers, they are the same thing as mchenry couplers, just make sure you get the ones with the springs on them, the ones without the springs are junk, they don't last long and have a bad habit of uncoupling when they go bad.
hope this helps
take care
George
Quote from: rallygsc on March 31, 2009, 08:25:43 PM
...as for rolling stock, bachmann 1998? and up , have screw on coupler covers, athearn cars have snap on covers, proto 1000 ( most of them ) have snap on covers,...
Yeah, I hate Athearns snap on. It always comes off on one of my boxcars.
Most athearn cars have the coupler boxes attached to a skeletal frame which screws onto the floor of the car. Using a demoted rail cutters (any sharp object should do), I snip off the coupler boxes at each end. I then CA a kadee coupler box in its place. I've done the same with Athearn Talgo mounted passenger car trucks. CA holds fine for my purposes, and have held up in consists of over 40 cars.
Indianiajones12,
try using a small pair of needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the sides of the Athearn snap on clip in. Just a bit. It will greatly improve the holding ability. These are light spring steel so go slow and easy. Stephen
One thing I did to some of the athearn coupler covers is this.
drill a tiny hole in the center and run a screw through it,
I never glue coupler boxes, I use screws on all of them, force of habit thanks to a coupler box failure on a rivarossi challenger
but most of the time I have never had problems with the athearn coupler covers, I usually use a jewelers rod, basically a metal rod with plastic ends, same idea as one member mentioned with the pliers, and they work.
I have had problems on some of the alco pa's, that's where drilling a hole and adding a screw comes in handy
thank's to all ,
for your (unexpectable ) great help.
:)
Perikles
With the Athearn metal coupler box covers - I take a pair of needle nose pliars and gently bend the long sides of the cover INWARDS - JUST A BIT!!! before snapping them on. The couplers go on before the frame is attached to the carbody, and it takes first finger and thumb to PUSH to seat the cover. Then it stays there.
Gene