Bachmann made two different sets called The Lumberjack.  The latest is 90071 with the Dvenport loco, The earlier set is 90017 with the 0-4-0T .

The correct answer will depend on the set you actually have.

I would recommend no more that 18 volts.  The smoker voltage should be no highr than the voltage at the motor.  if you have gutted the whole thing and will run the smoker directky from the track, the resistor idea is best.   As designed the smoker voltage varies with the voltage to the motor, if in your installation you have not altered the wiring to the smoker you may be Ok unless you plan to run your loco at full speed all the time.

I have seen many great indoor layouts made with this track,  many have modified the track to meet special needs.   It is just fine for what it was designed for, and easy to tweak. 

Barry,

I would have to agree with you that the Annie is the best if some one wants to put in one of your great drives get an  equalized front axle!

It is great that your customers have a choice, and I have recommended your drive many times!

Bill

Barry,

I see where you are going with the Plus idea, but I hate to see plus used as I believe it is too easily confused with the early Bachmann Plus line. The Annie 4-6-0 is an Annie and a Big Hauler 4-6-0 is a Big Hauler or in recent years part of the "standard line".   Bachmann insists that the Anniversary 4-6-0 is basically a stand alone item, not Spectrum, but not Big Hauler level.   Bachmann is trying to use Standard line to represent the 1:22.5 line and Spectrum to represent the 1:20.3 line of products, but it fails because there are Standard Line 1:20.3 items and Spectrum 1:22.5 items.  This all leads to much confusion to say the least.  As one who is trying to keep a history of all this, I must say it can be very frustrating trying to keep things organized.  Even some of the newer Bachmann reps can't explain what the Standard Line really means. 

That the Big Hauler line to date has the five chassis versions is not in question thanks to techies like you and Dave G who pioneered in defining it all.   Since the latest Big Hauler(since 2000)(AKA Standard Line) 4-6-0 Version 5 chassis is the same as that in the Annie the difference  between the two is the detail level rather that the chassis.   Because of this we can't really call the Annie a Version 6 locomotive.  If we call it an Annie Plus we again mix chassis with detail level.   Having hashed thru all this over the last 15 years, there seems to be no really great way of putting the Annie in a chassis definition , or a detail definition.   I do understand how you feel since I,  like you. always have to explain the difference to new Bachmann modellers.  The Anniversary 4-6-0, aka "Annie"has in it's own way come to be recognized for the higher level of detail rather than for the chassis.   Most folks I talk to seem to understand or"get it".  While I am open to new designations, maybe we should just leave the Annie as the Annie.   Even Bachmann uses it when they put an Annie in a set like the White Pass set

Best,

Bill

Barry, 

The Bachmann Plus 4-6-0 Big Haulers came out in 1992 and had the version 2 chassis.   These would be Bachmann 31497, 98, &99.

The D&S Freight set 90057 came out in 2006 and has the Version 5 Chassis which first appeared in 2000. 

This make the loco a Version 5 rather than the 1992 Version 2 improved chassis.

Bill

This set 90039 was sold only at Sams Club stores in 2001. The loco has the latest Version 5 Chassis.  The set contained an ET&WNC flat car with logs, the Linville River Box Car, and Combine #1 with the words "Cannonball Express" on the letterboards.  Since it was a limited run set it was never in the catalog. 

This set was a hell of a deal, at the original price, and when closed out sold for as low as  $65.  I missed it at that price but some of my pals managed to get a few sets.  Most of them repainted the loco and cars.  The box for this was also special and had a picture of Casey Jones on the box front alonf with the story.  A few years ago when I was tracking set prices, I saw these sets sell on Ebay for as much as $395, and the lowest price was $65.

If you are selling these items piecing it out is definitely the way to go since you do not have a box top.   
                 

Dave,

It is very easy to do, You do not even have to do anything to the loco, unless you are also converting to battery power.  Just hook the leads from the rear headlight to the inputs on the board, and the existing chuff sensor leads from the mini board to the chuff input on the sound board and you are ready to go! 

Sorry I didn't repl,y earlier.  I have had success using a large magnet along the right of way to pick up little screws and other small metal objects, you could try it!!

WAy to go Jim!!!!!!!

Welcome to thr board, it sounds like you have a great plan!!

Hi,

I thing doubleheaded Annies or Version 5 Big haulers should be able to handle at least 10 cars, provided the track is truely flat. and the curves are very wide.  I routinely pull six with one engine, and when double headed can add six freight cars, but I don't do it for long periods, like you may be planning to do.   If you do run the 17 cars for many hours a day, it will definitely significantly reduce the life of your locomotives.  It goes without saying that you will  need to keep the locos lubed and the rolling stock journals as well.  You may want to look into the mechanisims  made by Barry of Barry's Big Trains for your locos if your go through with your plan, they are not cheap, but will do a better job than the factory chassis which were not made for large consists.

I use the coupler and box from the 1:20.3 short cars (box & gon) for the front coupler. I remove the dummy coupler and file and cut the opening to size for the coupler box and screw it to the loco using the original screw hole.  I take about 30 minutes to do, maybe an hour the 1st time.

Good luck with your project, It really sounds like fun!!  Let us know how things work out!!!

Agree with Donaldson on JB weld.  I also like to rough up the surfaces as well whenever possible.  Especially if a metal part is really slick, or if a plastic part is really shiny!!  it doesn't take much, just a hit with 200 grit paper.    Also recommend the regular JB instead of the 5 minute type, on items like gear trains, as opposed to something fixed like a structure joint where the 5 minure type is fine.    I think it would work well on a slipping gear, provided it didn't get out of round in some way.

Kevin,

Great Idea for the Article!!   Please let us know what issue it will be in!!

Thanks

For Tom only, if you try Bachmann and don't find what you need send me an email or private message.