Not trying to be a smart-Alec, but just buy a decent set of jeweler's screwdrivers; you'll need most of them eventually.

Mike

Now, where's the fun in that?

Mike

My contribution: The Ingalls S2:
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/tr_gmo1900.jpg

I've known the seller for over ten years.  If he says it is crap, believe him!

Or you could just measure the distance between the rails:

Large Scale:  1.768"(mostly)
O (1:48):      1.252"
HO:               .651"
N:                 .355"
Z:                 .259"

Mike
KISS, AR

Quote from: ABC on January 24, 2010, 07:08:33 PM
It could be because TCS is not entirely compatible with DCC.

TCS decoders areas DCC compatible as it gets.  Excellent quality and goof-proof warranty.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/

Digitrax makes a decent 2 function hard wired decoder in the DZ125 model.  NCE, TCS, and several others sell decoders that can be used.  You want to shop for decoders that the mfgrs claim as Z scale if possible.  This is a case where smaller is better.

You're not likely to find it in the big box stores, but try calling some of the larger commercial insulation/refrigeration contractors.  They use this stuff for insulation in walk-in coolers, etc.
If all else fails, you might need to call 3M or Dow to find a jobber in your area.

I have a brand new EZ CCC (44901) and when I hooked it up to my track the first time, it ran the engine for a while, but within about 30 minutes, it stopped working and the CC started to have a burning ballast smell.  I just plugged it in as shown in the instructions. The unit is completely dead now. What happened?  What do I do? Jim

Jim,
It sounds as if you let the "Magic Smoke" out!
Check your warranty card and follow the instructions for sending the unit back for repair/replacement.

Mike

Which one, the 4-8-4 or the Mountain?

Offhand, the only thing I can think of is to get an NMRA standards gauge and check to see if all your wheels are in gauge.  It sounds like you have some that are gauged too narrow.

Mike

Your engine most likely has the basic Bachmann decoder onboard.  This decoder doesn't appear to support speed tables.  The CV listing is here:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/ez_content/1_Amp_Decoder_Instr.pdf

If performance is important to you ( as it is to most of us ) you might consider replacing the Bachmann decoder with an NCE...

Mike

Quote from: scrooge on October 30, 2009, 08:43:22 AM
Thanks for your advice, it has also been suggested that I cut both rails in the centre of the crossover.  As I am new to this game I am (I thought) taking the easy route by going DC but it would appear that each set up has its own challenges.

The crossover is simply two turnouts that are facing each other.  You just need to install insulated joiners where the two meet instead of metal ones.  This will need to be done whether you use DC or DCC.

Quick and simple calls for insulated joiners on both rails of the crossover where the curved rails of the turnouts meet each other.
This method will not let you run trains from one oval to the other as a loco crossing from one oval to the other will cause a short circuit.

If you want to be able to run your locos everywhere, you need to look into block wiring or DCC.

The 143 is a bit longer than the 123, but the 125 (replacement for the 123) is a bit smaller, and has bemf that the 123 lacks.  I needed to trim the heat shrink all the way to the edge of the board to get it to fit.  Just use a single layer of Kapton tape to insulate the board from the frame.