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Messages - GTBob

#16
Decided to modify my 5906 as outlined in previous posts by Joe Satnik and others.  Here is what I did: :o

1. Take 5906 apart (2 screws on bottom, usually covered up w/ a label).
2. Permanentally disable the weak, anemic and poorly constructed Normally Closed (N.C.) switch.  I placed a plastic clip cover over the smallest part of the 2 part switch.  Or you can simply bend the largest part of the switch out of the way.  Either method will break the switches ability to make contact.  The switch is now in a permanent Normally Open (N.O.) position---this is what you want.  Throw away the plastic button and spring--you woan't need them any more.
3.  Remove the thin red 22 ga. wire--replace it w/ a 2' (or what ever you think you'll need) 18 gauge stranded red wire.  Do the same w/ the black wire, replacing it w/ 18 gauge black stranded wire.  You need only novice soldering skills to do this.  Close up the housing making sure the red and black wires are free and o/s the 5906.
4.  I mounted this housing under my layout and ran the R & B wires thru a hole up into a Radio Shack "Project Box" (P# 270-1801) mounted about 3 inches from my ZW  trans.  I then installed a Ace Hdwr. 3 amp Normally Closed (N.C.) momentary SPST push button switch (P#3023728) between the two wires (bridging the wires).  You must plan the location of this switch because you need enuf wire to run from beyond the switch to your trans and middle track wire.  Then hook up red wire to trans + post and black wire to middle rail feed.  Whalla--you're done.

Hold the button down for about a second and the bell starts making sounds.  The loco does pause briefly until the bell starts, but is back up to original speed almost  immediately.  It stays on until you push the button again for a second or so.  I modified both my 5906 units and placed both switches in the RS box.  All 3 of my WbW and WbB diesel locos work and sound great w/  this modification---This is surely an improvement over the original 5906. :)

GTBob
#17
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams GG-1 #4053 Data?
January 29, 2011, 01:52:11 PM
If it were me, I'd buy a new WbB reverse board and junk the current one.  Sounds like more trouble than it's worth-----But that's just my 2 cents. ::)  Good luck w/ your loco.

Regards,

GTBob
#18
Hello RNF,

Thanks much for the info you provided.  That is exactly what I'm looking for.  Based on the feedback from most, it appears series wiring is the way to go.  That will be my next project. ::)

Thanks to all for providing some really good info.

Regards,

GTBob
#19
Hello CandO-----Thank you for the info you provided. 

I've previously seen your "How to Do" on series wiring (It's good work).  Sure seems simple enough---think I'll give it a try.  As you mention--it's easily reversed.

I've also seen Dale H's (OGR) post on use of diodes to slow down the loco.  Where would you splice in those diodes on a WbB/WbW 2 motor loco???? ??? ???  The only place I can think of is the wire coming off the power roller (Center rail power supply) and going to the reverse board.  Am I correct or am I in outer space w/o a space suit?????? ???
#20
Thank both of you for your comments.

671------Your explanation certainly makes good sense to me.  Guess you'd better have a 20 volt trans (ex. Lionel ZW) to get some decent speed out of a series wired 2 motor loco., right.......

Regards,

Bob
#21
AWWWW come on--someone out there has done an analysis on this and has an answer. ??? ???

Thanks,

Bob
#22
Right now my WbB GP9 runs at about 40 scale mph using 8.1 volts (w/ a Lionel Postwar ZW Trans.).  IF I switched the motors to run in series-----About how much voltage would it take to run at the same scale speed???? ???

Anybody out there have any idea????  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance....

Regards,

GTBob
#23
Do a search for "Heavy Duty Bell Button."  I think Joe Satnik gave really good "do it yourself" directions on building one...

Cheers and Welcome ,'

Bob
#24
Williams by Bachmann / Re: New Member
January 02, 2011, 11:41:55 AM
Hi Matt and welcome aboard.  I know what you're talking about when you mention your grandson.  Funny how toy trains attract grandchildren AND their grandfathers.

Cheers,

GTBob
#25
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Dim Head Lights--WBB GP9
December 29, 2010, 11:01:40 AM
Quote from: GTBob on December 23, 2010, 01:39:38 PM
Joe---Great idea.....

Will let you know results once known.

Bob


Joe---think I've got it figured out????

Put GP9 on track w/ 10.0v.  Both sockets read 10.0v when tested individually.  There was no change in bulb brightness when either bulb was removed. 

Put FP45 on track w/10v.  Front bulb socket measured 9.8v and rear bulb socket measured 9.6v when tested individually.  There was no noticeable bulb brightness in either bulb.  Remember--this is the loco w/ brighter bulbs.


Hmmmm---what gives here???  This is what I found----The GP9 runs on a smaller i/s loop w/ 5 freight cars including a MTH lighted caboose.  The FP45 runs on a larger o/s loop w/ 4 brightly lit MTH 027 passenger cars.  When measuring the track voltage while each train is running at normal speed the results are: GP9 w/ cars--8.1v---FP45 w/ lighted pass cars 10.1v.  I don't know why there are 2 volts difference between each loop, but, this accounts for the brighter bulbs on the FP45 vs. GP9.  I tried running the GP9 at 10 volts and thought the thing was going self distruct(fly off the track), so I backed off.  I guess the last thing to do is to try the GP9 on the larger o/s track w/ lighted pass cars and evaluate the loco's bulb brightness.

At this point, I don't think it's a problem w/ the GP9.
#26
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Dim Head Lights--WBB GP9
December 23, 2010, 01:39:38 PM
Joe---Great idea.....

Will let you know results once known.

Bob
#27
Williams by Bachmann / Re: Dim Head Lights--WBB GP9
December 22, 2010, 09:43:08 AM
Philly--Bulbs are 12V.

Dom--Yes, extra bulbs are 12V, just like loco.


I switched bulbs from FP45 to GP9.  GP9 still has dimmer lights. :o  Original GP9 bulbs are now bright when used on FP45.... ???

I've got to look a little deeper into this and try to come up w/ an answer....It sure looks like a locomotive problem and not a bulb problem???????
#28
Williams by Bachmann / Dim Head Lights--WBB GP9
December 21, 2010, 04:16:14 PM
Finally got around to trying out my new WBB Rock Island GP9 loco.  Everything appears to be operating properly EXCEPT the head lights (front & rear).  At about 10 volts to the track the lights are extremely dim. ???  I'm at a loss to explain why...
I have a WBB GP38 loco and a WBW FP45 loco that both exhibit very bright head lights w/ 10 volts to the track.  It's almost like the GP9 has 18 volt bulbs?????

Does anyone out there know what voltage light bulbs should be used in the WBW diesel locos??  I'm sure they must all take the same bulb.  Any help regarding my problem would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Bob
#29
General Discussion / Re: returning to the hobby
November 25, 2010, 10:08:57 AM
Hello modelbuilder and welcome back to the hobby.  It took me 50+ years to return, but here I am, enjoying every minute of it again.  Good luck.

Regards,

GTBob

#30
General Discussion / Re: newbie
October 31, 2010, 09:23:13 AM
Welcome & best wishes from Orland Park, Illinois USA.

GTBob ;D