You didn't mention the type of coupler so i'll assume it's a knuckle coupler.
Set your train on a level track and look at that coupler set to see that they are aligned in height. If they're not Kadee sells knuckle couplers in 3 styles:
Over set which lowers the coupler
Center set which you probably have
Under set which raises the coupler
If the car is coming uncoupled due to uneven grades in the track you might want to use a shelf coupler.

http://www.kadee.com/index.shtml

Have fun

Yes you can. In the handheld control go to "system menu". "Edit trk timeout" set it to "no timeout" .With this setting you can shut the handheld off and the trains keep running.

Have Fun

Actually your stuck with both the white and red lights lit up in the dummy as it is in stock condition.

I'm using the Bachmann 4 function atm I'm not too pleased with the low speed performance so I'm going to try a Lenz 4 function with back emf.

http://www.gadgettom.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Have Fun

Yampa Bob Might i suggest the use of a polarity switcher to power the turntable track and a Bachmann 1 amp decoder to operate the turntable.
Seems to work well here.   

Have Fun

Yes it is a bit tricky.The body is mounted a bit like the Athearn F7's where you have to pry the sides at the bottom of the body and let the frame drop out. First remove the drawbar from the coupler box then slide the front skid plate under the loco forward. This will also remove the nose piece. Then remove the back panel with the door diaphram on it. Next you will notice small notches at the front trucks, take a small screw diver and gently pry the body out and up just about 1/4 inch on both sides at this point with the front of the frame hanging down below the body at a slight angle gently pull the frame out of the body.

As for the dummy Bachmann wasn't nice enough to use the same pcb so you could install a decoder for directional lighting.

Have Fun

Hi Guys, I need some help.

I've got some Bachmann loco's that came dcc equipped and some that were dcc ready.

The dcc equipped run fine, click up a couple notches from zero and they start to crawl.

The dcc ready with 8 pin Bachmann decoders installed, on the other hand, don't start crawling till about 25 to 30. That on the 0 to 128 step scale.

Is there any remedy for this other then really pushing the low end of the speed table way up?

TIA,
SvFiat

Ok one more time:

1.) Please measure the length of the #6 turnout itself along the straight route.  Ignore the tabs and rail connectors.

That would be 15 1/2 inches or 39.37 centimeter

2.)  Pull a string or thread across the #6 turnout from the end of the outside rail, divergent route, to the points end of the straight rail measured in #1 above.

That would be 14 1/4 inches or 36.195 centimeter

3.) At the widest point of the #6 turnout, measure the distance between the end of the 1st and 4th rail tops. 

That would be 2 3/4 inches or 6.985 centimeter

But as I stated before the resulting spur using a 1/3 18 radius piece of track would be a parallel spur 2 3/8 wide center to center or 4 1/4 to the outsides of the roadbed which i think are the more pertinent dimensions of your project.

Have Fun

I'm guessing that you mean the additional length that the 1/3 track adds to the turnout side of the #6 past the straight side of it. That would be 3 3/32 measuring the roadbed not the rails and connectors. The resulting width roadbed included outside to outside would be 4 1/4. The total length of just the #6 is 15 1/2.

Hope this helps you.

Hi, I've been using a Digitrax PR3 as a hardware interface for programing my loco's using JMRI's software. I guess you could say this is entry level as it can be obtained for well under $100, but it works very well with all of my decoders.


http://www.digitrax.com/prd_compint_pr3.php

Hey Mr Bachmann !!!
Hi, I'm trying to build signal blocks from scratch and I see that the Acela uses some really nice micro led's that are super bright for their size.
How would i go about purchasing those circuit board assemblies?

TIA,SvFiat

"just when you think you got it right, she turns on the light"

Hi, I'm in the middle of rebuilding my layout and was trying to accomplish the same parallel siding using a #6 turnout and found that a 1/3 piece of 18 inch curve, bachmann # 44530, works really well. You will end up with a 2 3/8 spacing center to center. All of my trains will now backup into these sidings vers the nightmare I was having using regular turnouts.

Have Fun

I've been using Cadrail 9 with good results.

You can find the software at

http://www.sandiasoftware.com/

hope this helps.

Just thought I'd comment on this, I got real ambitious and bought an atlas turn table and round house model kit got it all put together and running then thought I wonder if I can DCC the table. So I used one of those cheap bachmann 1 amp decoders to control the table and it works just fine.

I'd like to body mount the gear boxes to my passenger cars.

Is the a formula or rule of thumb for the position of the center of gear box pivot vs. the end of the car vs. the distance of the center of the truck to the end of the car vs. the radius of the track it's going to run on?

TIA