Well, here I sit on a Friday night.  The kids are at Nana's, my wife is upstairs playing something called 'bunko' (sp), and what am I doing?  Making trees!  Yes I said I would take a break.... but I'm procrastinating.  The time has come to consider lights and signals for my layout.  The structures are nearly done.  I have 'repaved' the streets and parking lots.  The trains are running fine.  So it's time for lights.  I knew this moment would come.  So.... here are my questions.  I am a little ignorant on electricity.  I have read this forum, Wiring Made Easy, and a host of other on line advice on lights to prepare, but the truth is  I just want to keep it simple.  Here's what I want to do, please show me the error of my ways:

I have four accessory connections (AC) available from four transformers for my DC system.  I want to run lengths of wire under my layout from the AC outputs.  Then, I want to connect any lights I use in 'parallel?' along those lengths of wire.  Is that connecting to a bus?  I wish to continue connecting to the same length of wires until the lights start to dim.  Then I'll use the second accessory output to wire more lights until THEY start to dim, and so on and so on.  My head hurts from trying to figure out voltage, milliamps, resistors and the like.  It seems to me, if my LHS sells a light for my layout, they ought to work without having to worry about blowing up a bulb right away.  Am I naive?  Again, to keep it simple, will that work?  I am planning street lights, as well as interior lights for my buildings, and oh yes, some tower lights for my freight yard.

Also, I want a crossing signal where my road crosses the tracks.  I like the NJ International lighted crossbucks with gate.  I won't even think about operating the gate, but I want to make the signals flash.  Can I hook the flasher unit up to my accessory wires as well?  Do I need a toggle to turn these things off and on?

If I'm on track so far,  The final question is, with four accessory outputs, do I have enough juice to run a few dozen leds or GOWs plus a crossing signal?

Sorry for rambling.  Here's a pic for being so kind as to read this.

Regards,

Jonathan

Just brought home my latest baby, the royal blue B&O 4-4-0.  My curiosity is peaked because I am electrically challenged.  There is a single black wire that runs from the tender and attached by screw to the back of the locomotive.  I understand the tender wheel pickups appears to pick up from both the north and south rail.  If I understand the cryptic diagram page, the leading trucks provide current to the headlight. 

Could one of the driver wheels be providing current to the motor as well?  I have a 25-year-old (estimate) 4-4-0 with no additional black wire.  The old one is much lighter and has no traction tires on the rear drivers.  It use to run well.  It sits in a display case with all my inherited stuff.

Anyway... can any one tell me what the single black wire does?

Regards,

Jonathan

Allrighty then,  this is a test to see if I got the system down, now.  I resized this image to "320" wide.  Can you see it?  If so, this is an old Roundhouse kit #1427 B&O Rectangular 20' ore car.  I fell in love with it the minute I saw it on an LHS shelf... abandoned and alone.  I rescued it, and now I'm on a never ending quest to find its identical bretheren and sistern. 




It looks great behind my connies, 44-tonner, and H16-44.  The weathering is all dry-brush.  I think the greenish tint is the reflection off the ground foam onto the car.  I'm a lousy photographer, but will get better.

Regards,  Jonathan

As you can see from my last post on 'renumbering', I now have a 'photobucket' account.  How do I post the URL for the whole album?  I intend to use this account for nothing but layout photos.  Is there a way to put the album on my profile so anyone can look if they want to?  Seems more efficient, and I won't annoy those who aren't interested.  I suspect I need to copy and paste a URL from photobucket, just not sure how to do it.

I believe I've reached a half-way point on my layout.  I want to take a break from building and document my progress so far.  I'm hoping this will also give me some new scenic ideas for my layout.

My sincere apologies for posting so much lately.  I'm on a big learning curve at the moment. 

Respectfully,

Jonathan

I was in the middle of routine inspection and maintenance of my engines when I discovered one of my Athearn GP40s had a coupler out of alignment (sitting too high).  After removing the shell, I observed that the front portion of the frame, which holds the pilot draft gear box, was bent slightly upwards, causing the coupler to point up at an angle. Thus, it could potentially not couple/uncouple correctly. 

Here's where my stupid meter kicks in.  I removed the draft gear box, took out a small pliers and proceeded to pry at the frame to bend it back into shape.  You guessed it... I was standing there with the main frame in my left and the now broken angle portion in the pliers of my right.  After a few choice words I put everything down and walked away. 

After I calmed down, I proceeded to mend the broken frame by joining the two pieces with some cement.  After letting that dry, I added more cement around the split joint and let that dry.  Hoping to strengthen the joint, I then added some left over styrene (90 degree angle stuff) to the inside and outside of the angle where I broke the frame.  I then replaced the coupler box, having removed the kadee coupler and replaced it with one of my cheaper plastic spares.  I'm hoping the plastic coupler will fail before the frame does.   With the shell replaced, all the damage is hidden.  By sheer luck, the coupler now sits level and at the correct height.  The engine is now relegated to the freight yard for light switching duty.  At some point I hope to get brave enough to put it back on the mainline, but I have my doubts about how well my repair will hold (too nervous to give it a stress test).

I feel like I just earned a Darwin Award.  The lesson here is don't try this at home kids.  There are a lot of coulda, shoulda, woulda's that would have solved a minor problem turned major.  I submit this hoping someone will learn from my mistake.

Regards,

Jonathan 

After three years of running my layout, I finally experienced coupler separation.  It happened while running a double-headed train with 22 freight cars and a caboose.  I was running the trains at about 70%... a bit faster than I normally run (was feeling speedy that day). The Athearn engines (SD70M and GP40-2) separated.  Later, two freight cars separated about halfway through the consist.  So I'm ready to pull the trigger and order a bulk pack of kadee #148's.

Will the #148's be compatible with all my fleet?  I'm capable of minor tweaking (filing, sanding, shimming and drilling).  I'm also considering #5s, but would rather not play with the separate centering spring if I can avoid it.

I have Athearn, Atlas, Bachmann, Metaltrain and Walthers rolling stock and locos.  Think I read somewhere that putting metal couplers in some engines can affect current flow, although I could be wrong about that.  I perform regular maintenance on my track and wheelsets (all metal) to keep everything free-rolling. There are no uncoupler magnets under the mainline.

Regards,

Jonathan

OK. I've studied everything I can find on loco lubrication.  I've been playing with my own layout for about 3 years now.  I've collected 13 new engines so far, and am getting brave enough to start opening up my locos for inspection.  I have Bachman Spectrum, Athearn RTR and Genesis, and one Atlas Silver Series Dash 8.  Haven't collected any of the high dollar engines... yet. I have done the hard-wire soldering of the Athearn RTR engines, following the on-line instructions I've found—surprised myself how well that turned out. 

As I open up each engine, regardless of manufacturer, I am finding copious amounts of lube on the worm gear, so much that it has sprayed on the chassis or whatever is directly outside the worm gear.  Some grease has found its way down to the inside of some wheels where the wipers pick up the current (Bach. diesels). All manufactures seem to squirt plenty of lube in the working parts.  I have spent time wiping out excess lube rather than applying it.  The wheels get cleaned with Goo Gone, and then the tiniest drop of conduct-a-lube is applied and wiped clean again.  As long as I keep the track clean, the engines run smoothly.  Have tried two track-cleaning methods; using Goo Gone or applying light conductive oil on the tracks.  Jury is still out on these two methods, but I seem to get the most crud off by simply wiping the tracks with dry, cotton t-shirt strips. I will say that applying oil to the track makes the trains run quieter.

So... I'm looking for validation.  I'm guessing no engine has more than 3 total hours of running time.  1. Is it too early to start looking for dry mechanical parts?  2. Is grease really necessary on the worm gears?  3. Do the driving rods on my steamers need to be lubed yet?  4. When I do lube them, can I cause the little screws to let go of the drive wheels/rods?   My 2-8-0 Connies are my favorite engines.  I am a Nervous Nelly every time I run them, but they sure look cool running down the rails!  I won't crack open their shells until I get more confident with the other engines.  If there is a site, dedicated to "how to's" on lubing HO steamers, with pictures or diagrams, I'd love to read about it. Thanks. Sorry for the rambling (English Major).

Regards,

Jonathan

Hello,

I have ordered two H16-44 B&O Locos.  They will both be numbered 928.  I would like to double-head these from time to time.  So....  From previous threads, I have read that Bachmann paints or stamps their numbers instead of using decals.  I have also read that these numbers can be removed using an ordinary pencil-type eraser.  Can it really be that simple?

Before I make a mess of a perfectly good engine, I need to read it from someone who has actually performed this procedure... or a better way if there is one.  I believe I can get a dry transfer sheet from my LHS.  Thinking about changing one engine to #927 since there actually was a B&O 927 once upon a time.

Many thanks for your time and advice.

S,

Jonathan

Sincere Greetings!

I have been reading MR forums for some time, learning all that I can while planning and building my layout.  It seemed the right thing to do was to introduce myself and thank all of you for your advice and modeling information.  I chose this site because this seems to be the friendliest and most informative forum.  Again, thanks for putting me on the 'right track' to creating a good running railroad.  Also, it helps that nearly all my Bachmann equipment has been great right out of the box, from my 44-tonner to my Acela set.

A little about my layout:

I have taken over my 21' X 24' garage as a layout room.  The walls and ceilings are finished and painted (less dust), and I can sweep all my orts out the door after benchwork and scenery construction.  Only disadvantages are more frequent track maintenance and I have to stow all my rolling stock during the three coldest months.

My layout is in two halves;  on half is a double track mainline (min 24" rad), running CSX and Amtrak; the other half is a transition era shortline through hilly terrain with mining and passenger ops.  Trying to stick with B&O equipment 'cause I love B&O, but is really hard to find. Plus, due to lack of space, my old line has some pretty tight radii.  Two of my hidden turnarounds are 15" radius.  So I really love ore cars and the old time passenger cars.  I have two 2-8-0 Connies, one DCC and one not, and BOTH make around those tight curves with no problem...  as long as I don't overdo the lube/cleaner on the track.  Both turnarounds have easements and I adjusted the tender wiring a bit, though no weight was added to the tenders, yet.  There's about 350" of track to include two staging yards.  Layout is DC.

Problems so far?  Amfleet passenger cars "roll like rocks".  Gotta double head just to pull six cars.  Still working on a solution.  Graphite or oil have very limited results.  Perhaps someone knows a better way.  Just burnt out my first switch machine.  May transition to tortoise types (not cheap).  Who know garage floors were slanted?  Finally, I just planted 175 trees and my hills still look naked.  Looks like I'll need about 4000 more to finish the project (gonna take forever!)  Other than that, layout runs great so far.  Scenery and weathering is ongoing.  Hope to get into the photo part of the hobby in the future, so I can post pictures.  Been creating about three years now.

Sorry, I've rambled on enough.  Again, many thanks for your great words and links of wisdom.

Regards,

Jonathan