Ralph,

I've done this several times.  It is pretty easy to add sound to an On30 2-8-0.  My first sound-install was into one of these. 

The Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 fits easily in the tender, along with a speaker.  The new TCS WOW sound decoders are really nice too, but they don't have full JMRI support yet.  The Soundtraxx documentation is better than the TCS documentation.  Both companies have documentation on their web sites.  I am beginning to like the TCS WOW decoder better than the Tsunami, but without JMRI, the TCS WOW is harder to program.

I remove the original Bachmann circuit board and hard-wire the decoder, although you can leave it in place and use an 8-pin plug and plug directly into the Bachmann decoder socket.  The Soundtraxx Tsunami has a removable wiring harness.  For a few extra dollars you can get a harness with the 9-pin JST connector on one end to plug into the Tsunami and an 8-pin NMRA plug on the other end to plug into the Bachmann circuit board.  If you remove the Bachmann board and hardwire directly (my personal preference), remember to include resistors for the head/backup lights.  A 1000 ohm resistor works fine.  Radio Shack has little packets of 5 resistors for about a buck.

I have used the high-bass speaker from Soundtraxx in this locomotive.  It sits a little higher, but there is still room for the TSU-1000.  Be sure to seal all openings (except the speaker grill) into the tender shell (I use latex caulk from Home Depot).  It will really improve the sound quality if the back-side of the speaker enclosure is air-tight.  If you go with the TSU-1000, you can adjust the sound a little with their equalizer...it can really improve the sound to tweak it a little for the acoustics of the tender body.  Again, this is easiest using JMRI.

The Soundtraxx TSU-1000 and TCS WOW decoders both have extra function wires....consider adding working classification lights, tender markers, cab light or firebox light while you have it opened up.   Precision Scale makes some nice marker and classification light housings.  A 3mm LED fits nicely in their marker light; I use 0603 green & white LEDs in the classification light housings.


Have fun....take your time...and be sure you KNOW (don't guess) which wires you are connecting.

Paul   

It would be much cheaper to just add a second decoder.  Almost all of my locomotives have two decoders to get enough function wires for the additional lights I install.   A TCS FL2 or TL4 can add several lights (firebox, cab, etc.) for less than $20.

Paul

Jon,

The On30 Mogul is not DCC ready.  It is possible to install an aftermarket Soundtraxx decoder in the tender, however, you will need to take the boiler off the locomotive and route wiring from the tender to the motor.   All of this is doable, but you will need to be really careful if you have a nicely detailed Mogul.  I've done a few On30 Moguls.  There are step-by-step directions online if you search.  The boiler can be hard to get off (especially the first time), and the sand lines are easy to break.

As for Bachmann vs. Soundtraxx decoders, I prefer the Soundtraxx version.  I'm not sure there is much difference in the sound, but the Bachmann OEM version lacks the extra function wires available on the TSU-1000.  I'm not sure about the new 2-4-4-2 sound module, but the older Bachmann versions also lacked the equalizer, which I find is really useful to optimize and tune the sound.  Having said that, I've found that I can sometimes win a sound-equipped loco from The Favorite Spot for not much more than an aftermarket Soundtraxx decoder.  If all things were equal, I would prefer the aftermarket Soundtraxx decoder, but it is hard to justify the extra expense if you can get the Bachmann equipped sound cheap enough!

Paul

Patrick

You are on the right track.  Take your time and figure out what works for YOU.  There are a lot of options, all with different features.  There is no simple, "right" answer, but an answer that is right for you.  It may not be the "right" answer for everybody.

I use Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders too.  I prefer the aftermarket decoders to the OEM ones, but it is hard to resist a good deal on a locomotive already equipped with the OEM sound!  I miss the equalizer in the OEM versions because it allows you to "tune" the speaker for the specific installation.

I live near TheFavoriteSpot and have been there many times...  It is pretty impressive, especially just after they have received a shipment from Bachmann and the shelves are full!  As you noticed, they are nice folks.

Virtually all of the DCC vendors (trains, decoders, command stations, etc.) have their manuals online.  Spend some time reading them...follow this and other forums...and take your time.  It seems confusing at first, but it will start to make sense soon enough.  Most of all, have fun!

Paul

JMRI is software.  As such, it doesn't connect directly to anything.  You need a hardware interface between your computer and the track.  There are several options available.  The PR3 is one option.  I have successfully used it to program Tsunami's, but I know a lot of people have problems with them.   If I were starting over, I would look at other options besides the PR3.   I now use both an NCE Power-Cab via NCE-USB and the PR3 to control my layout via JMRI.

I use an NCE-USB interface connected to my computer to control the trains (JMRI throttles) and program decoders (JMRI DecoderPro).  I use the PR3 connected via USB to my computer  to provide a LocoNet bus for signals, etc. (JMRI PanelPro)

Paul

I have put a TSU-1000 in the tender of an On30 2-6-6-2.  Yes, you can remove the 8-pin Bachmann decoder in the tender and substitute a Tsunami.  The TSU-1000 does not have the 8-pin plug on it, however you can carefully  trim back the edge of the purple shrink-wrap and change the wiring harness to one that does have the plug.   Just order the harness with the plug at the same time you order the Tsunami & speaker.

If you plan on using the two extra function wires off the TSU-1000 (firebox flicker, cab light, classification lights, etc.) you will need to make your own provision for the wires from the tender to the locomotive as the Bachmann wiring doesn't provide for any "extra" functions.

You will also have to add a speaker and connect the wires from the TSU-1000 to the speaker.   There is a speaker grill molded into the floor of the tender....measure it and get a speaker to fit.

All in all, it is an easy change.

Paul

What did you change to get it to work?  Mine (a 0-4-0) either works or it just continuously resets the decoder.  I can run it for hours on test rollers without a hesitation, but on real track, it just starts & stops...not even an eighth of a turn of the wheels.  When I'm lucky, it will run for a bit, then get to where it just keeps resetting.

Paul

The trucks are screwed in with a screw that extends down through the floor.  The screws can be reached by removing the roof.  However, a better option would be to use an offset coupler.  Use an under-shank coupler to raise the knuckle; an over-shank coupler to lower the knuckle.  I would also check the coupler height with a gauge and make sure that it is the couplers on the cars that are off and not what you are attaching them to.

Paul

I've replaced these with Grandt Line queen posts & turnbuckles and a piece of music wire.  By carefully bending the music wire, it will hold the correct shape and is much less vulnerable to breaking.

Paul

Royce,  I agree with you!  I could have been having fun playing with a 4-4-0 or Mason bogie for a year now...instead of waiting for at least another year to see if the Heisler suffers the same gear-cracking problem before I buy one....

Paul

I get this site right at the top of a Google search....

Paul

Hi all,

I have an outside-frame 4-4-0 that has developed a hesitation as it runs.  It acts like something is binding or sticking....about in sync with the revolution of the drivers.  My suspicion was that the valve gear was binding somewhere, but I don't see anything amiss.  I haven't taken it apart to examine the gears...I was hoping to avoid that.  It has a TSU-1000 decoder in the tender.  Any suggestions what I should be looking for?

Thanks,

Paul

Paul,

If the tips of the wires have been stripped, clip that part off so the insulation goes all the way to the end of the wire.  Then, put a TINY bit of glue (I said TINY) on the tip of the wire.  Let that dry.  Then loop the wires and feed the ends through the loop.  As long as the loco you have doesn't have the motor in the tender, and the decoder IS in the tender, the wires aren't going to get tangled in anything.  If you are worried, just tape them to the inside wall of the tender or some convenient place.

Despite the number of wires coming out of a decoder, they really aren't as intimidating as they look.  Think of them as several simple, 2-wire circuits:  to/from the track; to/from the motor; to/from the headlight; to/from the back-up light; etc.   The wires (except the wires in Bachmann locomotives  ) use standard colors for the various functions.   Each color has one, well-defined purpose.

If you've stretched your ability to install your first decoder, stretch a little more next time and try using the extra function wires.

I suggest you download the manuals from the Soundtraxx web site.  They have several manuals available that will really help you fine-tune your decoder....

Paul M.

Paul,

I'm not sure why you're in such a hurry to clip those wires off.  I think you need to reread the instructions.  If one of the wires really was the "motor left", your loco wouldn't be moving.  Same for the "headlight"...the headlight wouldn't come on.  

You don't mention what model number decoder you are using.   On the steam Tsunamis I've installed, green and brown are function wires.  While you may not want ditch lights or rotating beacons, how about classification lights (I use two function wires to light white or green LEDs stacked in classification light housings), or maybe a cab light, or how about firebox flicker coming from the firebox door?   I add marker lights to my tenders for when the loco is running light....turn them off when cars are attached.

I've never clipped a wire off a decoder, in fact, I use two decoders (a Tsunami and an FL4) to get enough function wires to do everything I want!

Paul M

I'm disappointed.  The 2-4-4-2 is cute, but too odd and too much like the 2-6-6-2....I would have rather seen a DSP&P Mason Bogie.  I probably won't be buying any of the 2-4-4-2's.  The new cars are welcome, and I will probably get a few from The Favorite Spot after the prices calm down, but I can't say I'm really excited about them.  I was excited when I saw the C-19 consolidation, but then saw it is large scale and not On30....

Paul