Bachmann Online Forum

Discussion Boards => HO => Topic started by: tdhowell on February 28, 2007, 01:10:16 AM

Title: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: tdhowell on February 28, 2007, 01:10:16 AM
I have had a lot of bad luck getting any of my trains to stay on track with EZ Track switch tracke.  Is there a trick to these or are they just a 50-50 proposition?

If so, are there better quality ones available.

Title: Re: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: kd4006 on February 28, 2007, 02:26:51 PM
   Author,  I also have experenced the problem of the locomotives jumping the track at the switch.  I tried four different units running first forward than backward.  Each time the same problem.  I also had problems with the switch operating at least 75% of the time.  One would not do anything and the other would just buzz.
   A local dealer told me that I probably should go with a more expensive track.  But I wonder if that is because he would make more money.
   Hopefully someone will be able to help us out.
kd4006
Title: Re: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: Gene P. on February 28, 2007, 07:07:01 PM
They are a touch finicky, but with a few modifications they can work well. File down the switch track points, make them flush with the straight track. Make sure your table is level. I've got about 15 of them and after I did some filing they work well.
Title: Re: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: tdhowell on February 28, 2007, 08:05:09 PM
Thank you.  I will try filing them.

;D
Title: Re: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: Dave T on February 28, 2007, 10:22:15 PM
I have the same problem. All my diesels work just fine through the turnouts, but the front trucks of my steamers will not go through. IIf I manually keep the points against the rail of my #5's, I get good results (weak needle spring?)
Title: Re: Switch Tracks (EZ)
Post by: Jim Banner on March 01, 2007, 12:14:05 PM
Turnouts of all manufacture are affected by things like
- wheels out of gauge
- bad flange profiles (paticularly on older rolling stock)
- couplers (side sprung horn-hooks were really bad if truck mounted.)
- tracks within the turnout out of gauge
- poor alignment between points (movable rails) and fixed rails
- dirt preventing proper movement of points
- incorrect gauge (outside to outside) between guard rails and points

And other things that other people may add to the list.
Most of them can be checked with an NMRA H0 track and wheel gauge, and once the problem is found, the solution is usally obvious and easy. 

When it comes to trackwork, that gauge is the most important tool in my tool box.  If I forget my hammer, I can always use a rock.  If I forget my screw driver, I can always use a butter knife.  But if I forget my track and wheel gauge, then I might as well leave the rest of my tools at home because I will never know what needs fixing.