OOPS my bad I thought it was a year, I stand corrected. I've been using mine for 7 years and never had a problem.  Sorry, Jim

OOPS again! I did have a similar problem after hooking everything up when I had to move my layout to a new home. I hooked it all up and nothing worked. I came on this site and was directed to do what I suggested by unplugging everything and leaving the power cord till last. For what it's worth it fixed it for me. Sorry again, Jim

Note the EZ Controller is only covered by warranty for 90 days.


Not so, it's one year! 

GEEZ plastic wheels with metal rims, whodathought, what's old is new again. I never knew that in N scale I suppose in Z scale too. My first thought after reading James post was old wooden stage coach wagon wheels, wood with steel bands or model t fords with wood and hard rubber tires. Ain't that something! Jim

Important! Disconnect and unplug the components, everything. Plug your components back in before you plug in the power cord. Jim

Did you try it on address 3 most loco's with factory install are addressed to 3 when shipped. Is it a new loco or did you purchase it used. Did you have a previous system and addressed in your previous throttle. Need more info!
Jim

OGhoul, I watched your video. I have to do that, show some stuff too. My lady friend has my camera for a bit. I know you can run 3 with sound. I haven't measured how much feet or scale miles on my layout but it's 11'x17' with 4 main lines and longest is 68' all running in loops with lots of siding and short cuts and 2 reverse loops and a large 15 stall roundhouse with 4 additional parking spurs for my turntable along with 4 switching yards all on the top The center of one part is a spaghetti bowl of 2-3' trestles with trains going over the top and underneath and the subway is also 11'x17' with 2 lines around the whole layout with 2 reverse loops, 1 switching yard, so I have lots of track and 1 amp is impossible, but I do great with the 5 amp booster.

My EZ Command handles it all quite well, never had a problem in 7 years. Jim

Les I give you all the credit in the world. I'm quite sure that they are many many more DC layouts and model train buffs that don't buy into DCC. It can be costly especially if someone has a desire to add more amps, you know what they say "the more the better". I've heard of people applying 8 and 10 amps to their pikes only to have a derail and litterly weld the wheels to the track. Not smart to overdo things either, everything has it's limits.

But once I found control of 2 trains on the same track, one going slower or faster at my command, I never looked back. Stay with it if you're comfortable with, trains are trains and DC users are not looked down upon by me and lots of others. Enjoy and have fun that's what's important. MRRing is cheaper than a therapist, at least for me, it relaxes me and I forget the daily boring thing of doing adult stuff. LOL a 68 year old kid who still plays with trains. Jim

That's too funny bullfrog snot. I use Gorilla snot when I'm playing my guitar and singing with the bands. It sure does get hot up there on those stages with the lights and heat from the amps, you can't hold on to the pick without it with all the sweat. We use fingernail polish remover, acetone to take it off. I assume it's the same stuff, sticks like the devil and very heat resistant and waterproof. Jim

It sounds as though at some point, since you are using sound decoded loco's you might think about purchasing a 3-5 amp booster. Some sound decoders are real hogs for power. Boosters can be purchased from under $50.00 up to hundreds and most are NMRA compliant. I purchased the Bachmann booster, a bit pricey at $180.00 for this particular unit, but it has a fan and doesn't overheat. Another consideration is the auto shutoff in this unit is very sensitive and has saved me from frying decoders due to internal shorts in DCC equipped loco's. Some lesser models do overheat! Jim

OGhoul, you can however turn off the sounds using function button 8, that will kill the sound. And by simply pressing the button again in function mode will turn it back on.  Also note, not all my sound loco's start as soon as I put them on the track, some only come on when I call it up from my throttle. And by way I never place or remove a loco in DCC while the power is on the track. It's best to place the loco on the track first and then turn the track power on, and turn the track power off before removing your loco. QSI decoders are very sensitive to the tiniest of interruptions. Jim

 The moderators apparently deleted your post along with 2 others, thank you Mr Doneldon for your apology! I hope we can learn and continue to help others in spite of our difference's concerning Bachmann EZ Command!

You claim you know all about EZ Command and from your posts, you've seen this system but I don't believe you ever used this system from your post. And if I'm wrong I stand corrected sir. Yes the system is very limited as is most starter DCC sets/systems , NCE for example, can be purchased for low prices of around $169.00 with a recall limit of 2 loco's, possible to operate 3, but you enter the #3 loco and erase one of the other, it only has a memory for 2.

Bachmann EZ Command has a memory for 9 loco's, mine at present has 12 loco's programmed in my throttle with 2 loco consist's. I used 6 out of 9 slots! That still leaves me room for 3 more! Like I said I run as many as 6 trains and all consist's of 2 loco's, 12 locomotives on my $50.00 EZ Command throttle with the 5 amp booster (cost of $180.00), 6 of these have sound. I don't normally run 6 trains, it gets very confusing, 2-4 trains is my comfort zone. Just in case you don't know how to consist with EZ Command just watch the video's Mr Doneldon. It's 2 loco's MU'd on the same "button", just trying to be elementary.

Lets compare shall we starting with NCE which is a fine system as are other DCC systems from what I've read:

So for $169.00 I can purchase an entry level system with a throttle that will allow me to limit myself to 2 loco's. Adding an NCE 5amp booster ($135.00) still doesn't give any additional address slots.

So I should throw my EZ Command throttle away because I have slots for 2 loco's with NCE's limit, as opposed to Bachmann EZ which has 9 address slots, not 2? But I still haven't purchased any DCC loco's, no locomotive, no track and no rail cars yet, because this system doesn't come with any!

How about I upgrade the NCE and purchase the NCE power house pro for $450.00, average discounted price for this system. Then I am capable of programming 6 loco's in the throttle because that is, as you know, the recall limit for this system, 6 before it starts erasing the previous entry's. Ok the power house includes a 5 amp booster, and I can program CV's. Still have no DCC loco's, no track and no rail cars yet, because this system still doesn't come with those!

Bachmann item number 00501 HO DIGITAL COMMANDER TRAIN SET.
E-Z Command
2 DCC equipped loco's with operating lights
Plug-box car,
Open-quad hopper,
Wide-vision caboose
E-Z Command Control Center with wall pack and plug-in wiring
Body-mounted E-Z Mate couplers
56" x 38" oval of E-Z Track, including
12 pieces curved track,
4 pieces straight track,
1 terminal rerailer,
1 manual turnout - left,
Under-track magnet with brakeman figure, and
1 Hayes bumper
DVD format E-Z Command instruction video illustrated instruction manual
Price $157.00. The Favorite Spot

You'd be lucky to buy one other manufacurer's DCC equipped loco for $157.00 let alone a whole complete train with nothing else needed to run trains, it's a bargain and then some!

I use the Bachmann EZ Command, if I ever upgraded to another system I could sell what I have invested and probably get nearly all my money back. But I won't since I have no need for advanced system's with my 11'x17' layout. I program my CV's and sound with my PR3/JMRI (cost $74.00) program track, I have no desire to able to put in 900 loco's in any throttle and I'm quite happy with what I have at the present time 39 loco's total about 6 are still older DC analog and not worth converting to DCC. But I have my eye on a few of  Bachmann and other brand loco's and will be purchasing more. I have about 300 pieces of rolling stock, but still want more.
I only use the function's for what sound options I can use and quite frankly only use the bell, horn/whistle, and lighting functions.

Most of the sound's are default during start up, running, and shutdown. I have however completed some function remapping and cofigured decoders as an example, ditch lights that flash when the horn sounds with PR3/JMRI using decoders that allow you to do so.
It keeps me quite busy with completeing my scenery and maintaining what's completed.

I no longer see a need to continue to add to this thread and to continue on is senseless and reminds me of grade school children fussing about who has more expensive toy's. So I will be the first to bow out of this discussion, thank you for letting me have my say and since Mr Donedon's post has been deleted along with others, I will ask the moderators to delete my post also.

To the OP, Lynn, make your choices wisely whether you choose DC analog or DCC, and I only provided the links to Bachmann DCC showing how easy it is to use. DC analog is  still used by many, perhaps more than DCC users, who enjoy model trains.

Good Luck and Happy Birthday to your husband!
Jim

Jim Banner we were lucky, we got to see Steam loco's in everyday use before diesel loco's. Funny I'm still fascinated by those huge monsters I gotta say my whole life too at 68. I know by the sound when they come in the yard here in Elkins, haven't heard or seen any in quite some time. Since last fall I guess! I live a mile away from the yard. Jim

Jeff a few posters brought up the "twist wire" comment and I thought I would explain the need to do so. I personally don't have a problem with it on my 11'x17' layout. I would think on a club size layout might be a problem. Jim

Wow from a simple question of I thought connecting the buss wires back to each other to form a complete loop.

I used #14 solid romex house wiring, cheaper buying it at Lowes, Home Depot and far less than #14 at a local hobby shop. Any wire for that matter!

I used #20 braided wire for the feeders 6-8" long, but on every length of track. Using flex track that means every 3 feet and sometimes less. Every piece of track needs something more than track connectors to carry the current because no matter how tight they may be, sooner or later they will fail. Learning experience from 40 years ago. A small piece 1/4-1/2" of bare braided wire twisted and soldered on each rail on the joints of small sections of track is what I did if not using feeder wires from the buss. I don't believe in suit case connections at all, the crimped method I do use sometimes but solder is the only method that' reliable. I also am a firm believer of soldering feed wires to turnouts for very reliable, free of problems operation so common on turnouts.

Twisting the buss wires I haven't done and the longest run I have is 68'. This is not what's considered continous in my mind or knowledge. My layout is modular and I installed wiring blocks to be able to disconnect it without undoing a whole lot wiring if and when I move. This is my last layout at 68 years old. I also have districts or blocks if you like as in DC wiring. I can turn off certain areas, good for finding shorts.

I think I know that there is a certain noise of frequency that is associated with DCC and spikes in power if you run more than 30' continuous buss lines if your buss lines are separated. It's a technical thing and can only be measured, I believe, by using an oscilloscope. There is also use of a capcitator and a resistor I've read somewhere to alviate the noise and spikes of power. Twisting the wires however is the recommended fix. Obviously you cannot twist with the feeders soldered.

Here is more information on track wiring. Jim

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm

Lyn likes been said with all kinds of comments but since you came to the Bachmann site, I would like to suggest an affordable DCC train set starting with Bachmann EZ Command. Here is a link to a Bachmann dealer in Texas, his name is Ray and he would be glad to talk to you on the phone.

http://www.thefavoritespot.com/c-1380-train-sets.aspx

Here is another link to explain in simple language and showing how this Bachmann EZ Command is affordable and 5 minutes set up and how to operate DCC (digital command control) on youtube.

http://www.google.com/search?q=bachmann+ez+command+youtube&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLL_enUS385

Good Luck and I hope I helped some, Jim