What are the pros and cons of plastic and/or metal wheel sets. If I change over from plastic to metal is it OK to just replace the wheel sets or should the entire trucks be changed out?
I'm having a problem now with wheel sets falling out of the trucks.
This after trouble with couplers failing, the task of adjusting turnouts and the fact that Bachmann sent this beginner a train set that included a 2-8-2 locomotive with EZ track and 18" radius curves it doesn't like.
I know, I know, "Welcome to the hobby". Just felt like venting a little this morning and I knew you guys would understand. :)
Hey Ted, it's OK to vent once in a while...'can have a positive effect on your stress level (albeit short term).
OK...metal wheels or plastic. Definitely metal for some very good reasons. Plastic wheels produce a static charge as they turn and become, in effect, little 'dirt magnets'. Hence plastic wheels will pick up any oxidation (etc.) and let it adhere to the wheel's tread. In short order this 'crud' becomes rather hard and difficult to remove (remember: plastic is soft so the use of a wire brush, hobby knife or fine sandpaper is a no-no). [To the readers: yes, I could go into the physics of the situation; but have decided to keep the discussion simple...you can find out more on charges between dissimilar materials on the Internet.]
Another, somewhat less important, reason for metal wheels is sound. Nothing beats the clackity-clack sound of metal wheels passing over rail joints. It sort of enhances the whole 'railroad atmosphere'.
Wheel sets falling out of the bolsters is an entirely different matter. I will assume you have checked to see that the axle ends are actually IN the side frames? A further assumption is that the frames aren't bent in some way and the wheels are in gauge (if you don't have an NMRA gauge now is the time to purchase one). If you can determine the problem with the recalcitrant wheel sets, I would replace the entire truck assembly with a set of like trucks from Kadee. Kadee (and Branchline to name a few) trucks come already equipped with metal wheels and are of excellent quality. Whether you choose sprung bolsters (they actually have little springs in the side frame) or solid side frames is entirely up to you as there is little difference between the two.
I'd like to answer your concerns regarding EZ track and 18" radius curves vs a 2-8-2...but can't. I exclusively use Peco track components - and my little Bachmann Spectrum GE 45 tonner will negotiate curves much tighter than 18". I'm sure another poster can help in this regard.
In summary, welcome to the hobby...may all your troubles be little ones. Lay in a small supply of couplers, 2-56 screws and Kadee trucks (some metal wheels as well) and 'soldier on'.
Regards,
Ray
Hey ACY, Thanks for your input. My apologies!! It's been a while since I removed the pilot and trailing wheels from that locomotive, (they were derailing even if the drive wheels didn't). It's the Overland Express, and it's a 4-8-4, not a 2-8-2.
The venting portion of my original post was only to complain about the inferior quality and then the lack of companionship of products included together in the same set.
I realize it was a cheap set, but I have a feeling that a lot of beginners start out with cheap sets. I just have to wonder how many of those cheap sets end up discouraging how many beginners?
I appreciate this board, and all the fantastic people who post answers to our problems. For me this board is the difference between having a model railroad or something else.
Thanks again,
Ted
Yeah the Overland Limited set formerly came with 18" radius up until 2009, but it now comes with 22" radius which works much better. They finally have things straight, you must have either bought it in 2009 or bought a new old stock set.
ted i use both and i recommend metal wheals because they carry an electric current
Ted-
No contest. Metal wheels. Trucks matter much
less as long as they aren't Talgo trucks (with
the couplers mounted on them).
-- D
Most of my freight rolling stock was made years ago. I have mainly Athearn, Roundhouse and Train Miniature freight carsl
As I am getting ready to start to install some Industries I just recently realized other than logging and mining cars I had no regular 40' flat cars. As some of my Industries would most likely be shipping by flat cars I decided I should buy a bunch of flat cars.
I came across an auction site which deals mainly in Bachmann items. During the course of a couple days I acquired a fair number of the Bachmann Silver line flat cars with loads.
The price was very reasonable and I was very pleased to see that the Bachmann Silver cars come with metal wheels, are weighted quite well are fairly detailed and do come with kadee clones, which I will replace soon.
Quote from: razorback on June 20, 2011, 03:47:11 PM
ted i use both and i recommend metal wheals because they carry an electric current
?????
unless you are using the wheels to poweer something, like using the wheels on the tender as pickups for the locomotive, why would their ability to pick up current matter?
as much as i prefer metal wheels, from an operational standpoint it is much more important that the wheels conform to nmra rp25 specs. a plastic rp25 wheelset is a much better bet than an older car with metal wheels that aren't rp25. that said, the metal replacement wheelsets currently produced all meet or exceed rp25.
on older train sets with truck mounted couplers, it is a pretty good bet the wheels aren't rp25.
I would recommend machine metal wheels over sintered metal wheels. The sintered are compressed powdered metal and are a little porous and capable of holding dirt, plus they do not have the shiny thread.
Rich
Rich, aren't all the Kadee wheels sintered?
As an aside, I use the following metal wheelsets Branchline, Inter-Mountain, Bachmann, Proto 2000, Walthers, Atlas, Acuurail, Jay-Bee and some Athearn all metal wheelsets for some Athearn coaches. I usually buy them by the 100's or 200's. Most of my cars have Branchline and Inter-Mountain wheelsets, my Wlathers Gold line cars retained their metal wheels, My Bachmnn Silver-Series cars retained their metal wheels, my Proto 2000/1000 cars retained their metal wheels, my Atlas cars retained their metal wheels, my Acuurail/Accuready cars retained their metal wheels, all of my passenger cars that already had all metal wheelsets retained them, most of what was replaced was Bachmann standard line cars, Athearn Blue-box kits, Roundhouse kits, Bowser kits, and anything else that did not come with metal wheels. A couple older cars I have might still have Kadee metal wheels, which I plan of replacing.
My favorite ones are probably Inter-Mountain.
By the way has anyone used the Exactrail wheelsets, saw some of those online...
Yes, all Kadee's are sintered.
Rich