Thanks Bill!

Thanks, Bill. 

By the way, my tenders don't have functioning lights; both are from generation 3 locomotives, one with the Emmett Kelly, Jr. set of about 20 years ago, the other a Pennsylvania RR set of approximately the same vintage.

Are they supposed to have functioning lights?

Thanks Len.  I am thinking I should just bite the bullet and order some decoders and a controller.  I like the "classic" looks of the Digitrax DCS51; it's limited to 3 Amps, but it looks like a decent place to start.

Quote from: tomwolf on May 12, 2014, 01:52:07 PM
As a point of information for anyone else doing this, I also noticed that the wiring according to the exploded wiring diagram for the 4-6-0 differs from how the drive units are actually wired.  The ON-OFF switch for the smoke unit on the new power units has only 4 of the 6 contacts wired, while the diagram shows all six being used.  I am also adding the LED light to the tender (the old one had no lighting) and this may be an issue for that, I am not there yet.

I have also purchased a locomotive drive unit, an Anniversary model, from Bachmann parts, and a 4-6-0 dummy display locomotive and tender on eBay.  I noticed that the locomotive headlight and wiring are not included with the drive unit.  I downloaded the locomotive schematic, LS_4-6-0_Metal_Gears.dc_wiring.pdf.  I think there is a mistake in the diagram for the LED headlight wiring, and upon reflection I have a question about headlight operation.

The possible mistake is that the headlight power is taken off the smoke unit switch, but the takeoff point is incorrect, and the power feed for the switch is incorrect.  If you visualize the back of the switch, held horizontally, with three vertically aligned pair of terminals, referred to as left, center (or common) and right, the power feed should be connected to the center, and smoke generator to either left or right.  The headlight should be taken off the center, so that it is always energized, regardless of the smoke unit switch position.  As it is in the schematic, the smoke unit would never be energized, and the headlight would only function in one switch position.  A minor point is that the polarity of the LED is not indicated in the diagram.

The question I have about LED headlight operation is this: are these locomotives operated such that the headlight is only on when the locomotive is moving forward?  Since an LED only illuminates with one polarity of DC, it seems to me that when track polarity is reversed to run the loco in reverse, the headlight would not illuminate.

Thanks,

jv

Thanks for the detailed reply, Kevin.  I guess I have to do some basic research into DCC before I can make any intelligent decisions. 

I know this is an old thread, but this is exactly where I am; just laid out enough indoor, steel Bachmann track to be able to put more than one locomotive on it, and have acquired a couple of more loco's.

I don't see that there's a lot of DCC discussion here, but I know there are those among this community who know what they are talking about!

I have measured the current to the 4-6-0 pulling three or four cars on the level and never saw more than one Amp.  I guess I could rate if up to 1.5 Amps for the decoder selection.

I don't have a DCC controller, nothing.  I want to get started, but don't want to paint myself into a corner.

So, for 4-6-0 decoder, what should I choose?  I'd like throttle, of course, plus control of lights, sound, smoke - that's it, I guess? 

What's best, current? 

Thanks!

jv

I think I only have two sizes: "straight to straight or straight to curved," and "curved to curved."  I've also noticed the tab, or flange on the tie that engages the clip is sized differently on some tracks.  Am I missing something here, with a third clip size?

Thanks very much for the replies!

jv

I have Bachmann steel track with nylon "blades" to join rails, and some with steel.  I prefer the steel.  Does Bachmann make both, or has one superseded the other?  Are just the steel blades available?

Thanks,

jv

Greetings, first post and return from long (18+ year) hiatus from model railroading. 

I have a question: how common is it for someone to scratch-build large scale track.  The concept appeals to me, 'though I'm not sure I'd ever undertake it, except perhaps for display purposes.  I'm curious as to technique, and where one would find components: rail, tie plates, tie stock, joint bars, nuts and bolts, spikes, etc.; and what techniques one would employ for accurate and long-lasting installations; and what techniques one would employ for four-season, outdoor roadbed to support this. 

Thanks in advance!

jv (John)