I own one of these Crossing Gates also - have had it for several years. It looks real nice sitting in its box in the closet. On the layout it isn't worth the effort to install it. I had the same problems you described and spent a LOT of time trying to form the little arms and springs to get it to work smoothly, but it never did. I finally gave up on it out of frustration.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Dualgauge, FWIW, I run a Zephyr Plus (DCS51) system with a mix of different locos. I got tired of jury-rigging the resistor across the track, so I cut an inexpensive alligator-clip test-lead in half and soldered the resistor between the two halves. Now, when I need to program one of my Bachmann locos, I just clip each end to the track and the Digitrax recognizes the decoder without any problems. Hope this helps.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

There is one other way to have the Plymouth switcher run on DCC: Isolate a section of track (or set up a totally separate district) from the rest of the layout (both tracks will need to be insulated). Then connect the black and red wires of a decoder to DCC power (obviously with the power off) and the gray (Motor -) and orange (Motor +) wires to the track. You will now be able to assign an address to the decoder using the mainline programming function of the DCC controller and the Plymouth (or any other DC locomotive) will run on that track under DCC control. HOWEVER, any locomotive that already has a decoder installed in it will most likely not run and will most likely fry the decoder (haven't tested it - too chicken). Hope this helps.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

It could be that your DCC system can't recognize the decoder. If you are using a Digitrax system, you need to place a 1K-ohm resistor (any wattage) across the programming track (really anywhere in the circuit across the two leads) and that should solve the problem. I have mainly Bachmann engines and the ones that have the factory decoders all require this. Be sure to remove the resistor when you are done programming. In order to make it easy on myself, I cut a small test lead in half and soldered each end to the resistor so I can clip it onto the tracks using the alligator clips. This assumes that your programming track is isolated from the rest of the layout. Hope this helps.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Also waiting (im)patiently for one. Like Tony stated, all of the places I've tried are very vague as to when the model will arrive. Actually "end of June" is the best time frame I've heard so far.

Thanks,
Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Louis,

I built a double-crossover using #6 Atlas turnouts on my EZ Track layout. After doing some research, the underlayment that worked best for me and is the correct height is foam-core display board, such as is used in school projects, etc. I purchased a piece in the hobby section at our local Walmart. For my double crossover, I set up the Atlas turnouts in the configuration I wanted, set them on the foam-core board and traced the outline, leaving a little extra room around the track for a "shoulder". Next I cut the foam board, using an Xacto matte knife, at a 45-degree angle to match that of the EZ Track roadbed (not exact, I know but at a distance you can't tell the difference). I then painted the foam-core board in a tan color that closely resembles the color of the EZ track roadbed, using a water based latex paint. I mounted the switches on the board using n-scale track nails. They do go all the way through the board but my subroadbed is blue insulation foam, so the nails actually help hold the setup in place. on the ends where the EZ track connects, I notched the foam-core so that the plastic guides on the EZ track slide underneath the snap track and do not have to be cut off.

Hope this helps,

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Well, I received my new-style Bachmann turnouts for Christmas (a BIG thank you to my wife for indulging me in my hobby  ). All I can say regarding the new turnouts is WOW! What a big difference from the original (old-style) Bachmann turnouts. The design is so much better. The track is recessed to accept the points so that the path is always smooth and the wheels can't "pick" the points. Currently, I am using the turnouts manually - I am running 3 - #6s and 2 - #4s - but hope to get them wired in for DCC remote control (with a separate control unit) as time and money allows. The fact that Bachmann has designed them so that the user can change the frog from unpowered to powered is a huge plus in my opinion. Of the five turnouts, only one has had an issue. One of the #4s had a slight burr at the rail gap by the frog. A little judicious filing solved the problem. The rest ran perfectly straight out of the box. As a matter of fact, I'm so pleased with the new turnouts that I will probably be adding more in the future, as time and money allows. As I get the turnouts wired in for remote control, I will post my experiences here.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

I have several of these engines and all have been converted to DCC. The shell can be removed by very carefully pulling up on it and slightly spreading the sides at the bottom center. Sometimes a little prying (VERY GENTLY) with a small jewelers screwdriver may be required. The circuit board that sits on top of the chassis/motor has 7 copper-plated holes on the side at the rear of the engine. These are numbered 1-8 and correspond to the NMRA specification for wiring decoders. There are two small copper jumpers that connect some to the solder pads on the holes. These must be removed (they just pull off to the side of the board - again gently but firmly, they can be stubborn).

Here is the NMRA pinout for wiring DCC decoders:

Hole #    Wire Color
-------    -----------
  1          Orange
  2          Yellow
  3          - not used, probably will not even be present
  4          Black
  5          Gray
  6          White
  7          Blue
  8          Red

I use Digitrax DZ123 decoders in my engines because they tuck neatly under the circuit board in the space at the rear of the engine.  You may want to shorten the wires on the decoder to make it easier to tuck under the board. Just solder the wires to the corresponding holes and then test the engine with the shell off to make sure everything works.

Hope this helps,

Fred Klein,
Okeechobee, FL

George50,

If you don't mind a single-track mainline, Bachmann makes their EZ track in an 11-1/4 inch radius which would make for a 22-1/2 inch diameter loop. As far as I know, this is the radius of the curves that ship with all of the starter sets. If you can squeeze another 2 inches or so out of your space, then you could go to the 12-1/2 in radius curves which would make for a 25 inch diameter loop. The 11-1/4 inch and 12-1/2 inch radii nest very nicely inside of one another with about 3/4 inch of space between them and that would allow you to run a two-track mainline. Either way, you could branch off from the mainline with a switch ( or more) and put in a yard, industry, etc. in the center. Another option would be be to go with another manufacturers track, such as Atlas, which makes a slightly smaller radius.

Hope this helps,

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Thanks for the information and pointer to the other topic. Sounds like the newer turnouts are OK. I guess I'll find out soon enough - I'm getting some as Christmas presents from my wife (she made me order them - LOL). As I get around to using the turnouts, I'll try to post my experiences here. Again, thank you for the information.

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Hi,

I've been working on my N-scale layout, as time permits, off and on for about 2 years and have decided to change things around a bit. Originally I was using a few of the Bachmann EZ track turnouts and have to say, the quality and reliability left a LOT to be desired. Since then, Bachmann has announced the new #4 and #6 turnouts and I was wondering what, if any, positive or negative experiences anyone may have encountered with them.

Thanks in advance,

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

SpecialK67,

I'm running a double loop of Bachmann EZ track. My outside loop consists of 12-1/2" radius curves and the inside curves are 11-1/4". The two radii complement each other perfectly. I'm running this on 32" x 96" benchwork and I have enough room to put one of the small 2-1/2" pieces in each curve and still have the outside track about 2" away from the edges.

Hope this helps.
Fred Klein 

Rookie,

I'm a grandpa too, but I'm running my own N scale layout (used to be in HO a long time ago). I'm running Bachmann's EZ track system in 12.5 and 11.25 radii. The two complement each other and make for a nice double track layout. I run fairly long diesels (Bachmann Dash 8-40s) and they run very well on either radius. Is it prototypical? Probably not, but in N scale the overhang on the curves is really not very noticeable - at least to my old eyes. Also, instead of a 4x6 piece of plywood, you may want to consider a hollow-core door. I'm running mine on a 32"x80" door and even with the 12.5 inch radius, there is plenty of space left for sidings, etc. Lot of times, you can pick up a door that has some imperfections (mine has a couple of small holes punched in one side) for very little money. IIRC, I paid $10 for mine.

Hope this helps,

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Charlie,

I recently converted 3 Bachmann Dash 8-40CW units to DCC using the Digitrax DZ123 decoder. The Bachmann circuit board uses the standard NMRA numbering for the wiring so all you have to do is match the color to the number and then solder the wires in. Prior to soldering the wires, you will have to remove two copper jumper clips that connect to the holes on the board. They just pull off with a pair of pliers. On the Dash 8-40CW units there is a space between the overhanging circuit board and the chassis at the rear of the engine that is large enough for you to tuck the decoder in. Prior to soldering the wires, I sort of do a "dry" run of tucking in the decoder and seeing how it fits, then I cut the wires to length, allowing a little bit extra so that I can easily maneuver the decoder under the circuit board after soldering.

All of the engines I have converted run great. I have two of them MU'ed together and they have a great slow speed as well as a lot of pulling power.

Hope this helps,

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL

Charlie,

When I spoke with Bachmann service that day, I did not get a warm fuzzy feeling that knuckle couplers for the Amfleet cars would ever be available since the lady in the service department did not even seem to know that the coupler assemblies for these cars are completely different from their standard "dummy" knuckle couplers. She seemed to think that the couplers from their assortment would just drop right in and replace the Rapido couplers.

Anyway, after I posted on here, I went ahead and ordered one of Micro-Tains' un-assembled coupler assortments (001 02 000), as well as one of their coupler assembly jigs. (My nearest hobby shop with any type of decent selection is about 90 miles away so order most of my model RR stuff via internet). The package arrived yesterday and this afternoon I had a chance to assemble the couplers. Assembly wasn't too difficult following MT's instructions and using their jig. The assortment comes with 2 pair of short shank and one pair of medium shank couplers.

Using the excellent tutorial from r0bert in another thread on this same topic in this forum, I mounted the medium shank couplers to the ends of the swing arms. I chose not to mount the couplers to the body because the standard curves on my layout are 12.5" radius and the inner trach has 11.25" radius. Anyway, I cut the Rapido couplers off the swing arm and then drilled and tapped the stub in the arm. The couplers mounted to the arm with no problems and seemed to be close enough to the correct height that I did not bother to adjust the arm. Also, I only did the couplers on one end of each car since these cars will always be run as a consist and the Rapidos do a good enough job holding them together.

While I had the car apart, I also removed one contact from each wheelset to reduce the drag and formed the remaining two into a gentle V-shape that r0bert describes in his tutorial. The wheels seem to be about as free as I can get them with very little drag and the lights still function well.

Anyway, I am very pleased with the conversion and the cars seem to run very well. Let me know if I can provide any additional info.

(Sorry for the long append)

Fred Klein
Okeechobee, FL