Well, that answers that....

Hunt, some very good information you gave me! The Tsunami Diesel reference guide told me all I needed to know about the automatic sounds! I even enabled "brake squeal", but I haven't had a chance to see if it's there. Automatic grade crossing works great, with a little "bump" from the throttle. Now I'm making a little noise... now I want to see if there are any more "hidden" features on this thing...!

Thanks for the info! It would be nice if instead of just giving the cv's a "label" (in the Sound Value documentation), they could also tell you what they DO...! I already have the tsunami tech reference guide downloaded for my athearn diesels, I will see if cv 198 settings are compatible. Thanks again!

Also, cv's 193, 194, 195 have to do with "Automatic Bell" settings, and "Grade crossing". What do they do? These cv's are specifically listed for the "Sound Value GG1"...?

Cv131- "exhaust volume control". I don't know what this is, but it doesn't seem to do anything. Default is 00, but I don't hear a change at 200. It seems to me the motors should make a sound while running. Speed up, slow down, etc.... right?

I finally broke down and purchased an HO scale GG1 with the "Sound Value" installed. Other than blower, compressor, horn and bell (all function controller), the loco makes NO SOUND at all while running! Is this correct? I know GG1's were quiet, but the electric motors make NO SOUND AT ALL? While running, it seems I have a  "no sound" loco...? Also, from the Soundtraxx site, this thing has settings for "automatic bell and grade crossing" AND  "exhaust sounds". I can't seem to make any of that happen. No matter how I set the CV, there are no exhaust sounds, and no way to trigger the grade crossing signals....am I missing something?

Is there any info available that lists ALL the cv's functions provided on EM-1's decoder? Such as defaults and ranges available for things like start voltage, accel, decel, etc??

The 2 8 0 does run slower than many other N-scale locos. This, I think is normal.  on mine, I had to slightly loosen the screw directly under the cab to free-up the drive a bit. Also, there's a black plastic cap over the rear of the armature shaft on the motor, in the cab. You can remove this and put a VERY LITTLE oil on the armature bearing. REPLACE THE CAP! I have heard some folks leave it off, but this can make the motor noisy. This cap holds the armature in place, keeping it from sliding back under load.

I have a relatively new Spectrum NW j 484 that has developed a problem with the front "pilot" wheel flanges. The flanges have worn through the paint on the front of the cylinders (which are metal), and around curves, creates a short. In the dark, you can see blue sparks when the wheel contacts the cylinder, then the loco STOPS, and the breaker trips. I had the exact same problem with my Spect. 2-8-0 and had to modify the pilot drawbar in order to move the pilot wheels FORWARD in order to clear the cylinders. Unfortunately, there isn't enough room on the 4-8-4 to do this. A set of PLASTIC pilot wheels would be ideal in this case, as they wouldn't conduct current. I'm using 11.5" curves, and this shouldn't happen. Anybody experienced this, and have figured out a FIX? I thought about sanding down the flanges a little, but am afraid of derailments. Anybody know of any plastic wheels (that don't look just BLACK) that can be pulled from their axles? Ideas?

After purchasing TWO Spectrum J's from Trainworld, and having one of the motors burn-up completely, and motor #2 is indicating that same may be inevitable. I also notice replacement motors are no longer available from Bachmann, which tells me they have had considerable problems with these motors. I would like to hear some customer feedback from you guys to maybe get an idea of the actual extent of these problems. Is this widespread, or am I just "lucky"? The idea of constantly returning an item and getting another (which may have the same problem, or WORSE) seems ridiculous. I have become very proficient at disassembling/reassembling these engines with ease. I really would like to hear from those who have had problems. Maybe then Bachmann might supply us with adequate motors. And let's not forget the WIRING......

Thanks guys!

Skipgear, where is your post? Got an email saying you replied.

Good information. I have been using brush-on Crazy Glue (the really watery stuff) to paint on the wires where they connect to the plugs. Very rigid, and do hold the wires in place at the solder joints. I also used some silicone sealer around the area where the wires join the plug. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to do this on the new loco before they almost immediately broke. It seems the wires fray too easily when moved the slightest amount. The #611, however has good vinyl insulation and stable solder joints. And really good couplers! The motor is so quiet, you can't even hear it run. Totally different quality between the two! I'm still wondering if the 611 "excursion version" I have indicates what's to come, or what will never be again?

As some may remember, a couple of months ago, I purchased from Trainworld a Spectrum N&W J #601. I have had constant tender-to-engine wiring problems, and finally a burned-out motor. I also found out that Bachmann has NO new replacement motors. Since I had done some "super-detailing" on mine, I went ahead and bought ANOTHER J #601 either for parts, or swap shells and tender. The motor in the new one is noisy, just like the old one, and has already exhibited the slowing down, tripping the circuit breaker. Just like the first one. although it has not done it since. THEN, I got a good deal on Ebay for a #611 "railfan" version with auxilliary tender from "The Favorite Spot" (not Trainworld this time). This loco is TOTALLY DIFFERENT! It has REAL (plastic insulated) wires from engine to tender. It also came with operating magnetic couplers, and the motor is VERY QUIET! Nothing like the other two! This one has run at least two hours (total) without a flaw. Is this #611 a NEWER IMPROVED version? Or are the two from Trainworld the newer, cheaply-made, inferior-quality version?? The motors in the Trainworld locos #601, on sale for $69.95, are clearly NOT up to par!! Neither is the WIRING. Two of the lacquer-insulated wires have already broken from the tender-plug on the replacement #601! Anybody know?

I think on the 2-8-0, the tires are on the drivers with the eccentric crank. Best not remove the wheels. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember noticing this on mine, wondering how in the #%@^& I would replace the tires! My first guess would be to carefully remove the crank and rod. OR remove the bottom cover and separate the wheels, which may involve re-quartering. Would be interesting to find out.

Quote from: Joe Satnik on May 21, 2013, 11:48:39 AM
Dear All,

Sounds like 2.5V Christmas Tree bulbs, which short out when the filaments break (open). 

Scroll down to "Blown Bulbs and Shunts":

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Shorten_Mini_Lights

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Nope. Not Christmas tree bulbs. N scale "streetlamps". 14V bulbs wired in parallel, as I said earlier.