I finally broke down and purchased an HO scale GG1 with the "Sound Value" installed. Other than blower, compressor, horn and bell (all function controller), the loco makes NO SOUND at all while running! Is this correct? I know GG1's were quiet, but the electric motors make NO SOUND AT ALL? While running, it seems I have a  "no sound" loco...? Also, from the Soundtraxx site, this thing has settings for "automatic bell and grade crossing" AND  "exhaust sounds". I can't seem to make any of that happen. No matter how I set the CV, there are no exhaust sounds, and no way to trigger the grade crossing signals....am I missing something?

I have a relatively new Spectrum NW j 484 that has developed a problem with the front "pilot" wheel flanges. The flanges have worn through the paint on the front of the cylinders (which are metal), and around curves, creates a short. In the dark, you can see blue sparks when the wheel contacts the cylinder, then the loco STOPS, and the breaker trips. I had the exact same problem with my Spect. 2-8-0 and had to modify the pilot drawbar in order to move the pilot wheels FORWARD in order to clear the cylinders. Unfortunately, there isn't enough room on the 4-8-4 to do this. A set of PLASTIC pilot wheels would be ideal in this case, as they wouldn't conduct current. I'm using 11.5" curves, and this shouldn't happen. Anybody experienced this, and have figured out a FIX? I thought about sanding down the flanges a little, but am afraid of derailments. Anybody know of any plastic wheels (that don't look just BLACK) that can be pulled from their axles? Ideas?

After purchasing TWO Spectrum J's from Trainworld, and having one of the motors burn-up completely, and motor #2 is indicating that same may be inevitable. I also notice replacement motors are no longer available from Bachmann, which tells me they have had considerable problems with these motors. I would like to hear some customer feedback from you guys to maybe get an idea of the actual extent of these problems. Is this widespread, or am I just "lucky"? The idea of constantly returning an item and getting another (which may have the same problem, or WORSE) seems ridiculous. I have become very proficient at disassembling/reassembling these engines with ease. I really would like to hear from those who have had problems. Maybe then Bachmann might supply us with adequate motors. And let's not forget the WIRING......

Thanks guys!

As some may remember, a couple of months ago, I purchased from Trainworld a Spectrum N&W J #601. I have had constant tender-to-engine wiring problems, and finally a burned-out motor. I also found out that Bachmann has NO new replacement motors. Since I had done some "super-detailing" on mine, I went ahead and bought ANOTHER J #601 either for parts, or swap shells and tender. The motor in the new one is noisy, just like the old one, and has already exhibited the slowing down, tripping the circuit breaker. Just like the first one. although it has not done it since. THEN, I got a good deal on Ebay for a #611 "railfan" version with auxilliary tender from "The Favorite Spot" (not Trainworld this time). This loco is TOTALLY DIFFERENT! It has REAL (plastic insulated) wires from engine to tender. It also came with operating magnetic couplers, and the motor is VERY QUIET! Nothing like the other two! This one has run at least two hours (total) without a flaw. Is this #611 a NEWER IMPROVED version? Or are the two from Trainworld the newer, cheaply-made, inferior-quality version?? The motors in the Trainworld locos #601, on sale for $69.95, are clearly NOT up to par!! Neither is the WIRING. Two of the lacquer-insulated wires have already broken from the tender-plug on the replacement #601! Anybody know?

On my little N scale layout, I have about ten little "street lamps" lighting various places. These are powered by a separate DC power pack which came from an old LifeLike train set. The power pack is one of those cheap, single-knob deals which is center-off, left reverse, right forward. This way I can dim the bulbs (14 v) to extend their lifespan. Well last night, for no reason, the bulbs suddenly brightened, started smoking (due to plastic "shades"). The little shades actually MELTED! Then, all lights stopped working, and the breaker tripped in the power pack. Now there's a dead short in the lighting circuit (parallel), but according to my meter, the power pack is working correctly, with a maximum of 14 volts wide open. Anybody venture a guess what happened?? The bulbs I've been able to get the shades off of don't "look" burned out. (not discolored). I can't easily access the wiring, so I haven't checked the individual bulbs. Yet. Do you suppose the power pack sent a SURGE to the bulbs?? And then went back to normal?? If I gotta replace all these LAMPS.........SHEEEESH!

I have become "stunned and amazed" at the new-found pulling power of my recent purchase of an older (non DCC-equipped) Western Maryland Consolidation. I found out that one of the tire-equipped drivers wasn't putting enough pressure on the rail due to the axle bearing being too deeply recessed into the frame. Noticed a little bouncing on that driver as well. So I lifted the drivers and inserted a small piece of plastic tape under the bearing (was NOT easy), and now I have a smooth-running puller from Hell!! This thing is pulling 25 freight cars without so much as a GRUNT! Just sharing this in case some of you might have the same issue. Also, you might have to loosen the nearest bottom cover screw to free things up a bit. I did, and the result is simply mind-boggling!

There's a little "Ma and Pa" hobby shop in town that sells Bachmann trains and accessories. A lot of his stuff, while new, seems like older stuff that he's "collected" over the years. I've got two Atlas turnouts (standard "snap switches") that have become troublesome on my layout. This guy in town has two Bachmann remote switches, but they are not the "EZ-Track" ones that have the plastic roadbed attached. They seem identical in dimension to the Atlas ones. Does anyone have an opinion, from experience, as to whether these will make a dependable replacement for my Atlas turnouts? They look decent enough, and maybe a little simpler in design. Any ideas?

Are any of the (six?) wires running from the tender to the engine NOT necessary for normal DC operation? I don't intend to ever run DCC on my little layout, and it would be nice to eliminate some of those wires. Of course, I still want motor power from tender and working lights. Seems all I would really need would be TWO wires?? Also, I think I may have a shorting problem involving these wires that affects the motor. The wires don't even seem to be INSULATED! I know they would have to be, but with WHAT?

Does anybody know the procedure for removing the boiler shell from a Spectrum N&W J class loco? I need to access the motor to see why it runs beautifully, but will suddenly drop to a crawl, runs very smoothly but with a faint motor "growl", but with slight "goose" of the throttle, it takes off and runs normally for an indefinite period of time. Also, when this happens, the headlamp flickers very slightly, but still runs smoothly, but VERY SLOW. Due to slightly excessive motor noise, I suspect armature bearings may need lube. Have removed every screw I can find, but shell won't budge! Any ideas??

I recently purchased two N scale Spectrum N&W water tenders with "directional lighting". While they do have lights, front and rear, they both stay on all the time (on both tenders). I am running a DC only layout. Anybody know why this is happening?

Mr. Bach Man,
I am using a MRC Tech 6 controller to operate my many sound-equipped loco's. As it enables me to designate single-digit addresses to (up to six) locos, I find it interesting to run more than one train from the same controller (I also have the optional WALKAROUND). The problem is, the power pack is only rated at 2 amps. When running two or more trains, the unit goes into "overload", especially with lighted passenger cars. My question is: can the Bachmann part # 44910 "booster" be wired between the tech 6 and the track, and possibly take care of this problem? I use the Tech 6 because I also run a lot of older standard DC loco's, and the Tech 6 can switch between the two. I'm sure I would have to "switch-out" the booster when running DC (which I can do with no problem). Will it work? ! appreciate any input!
Thanks,
Mike Crafton

Dear Mr. Bach-Man,
I have a Spectrum 2-8-0. I want to re-letter it for Union Pacific and install a Vanderbilt tender. Is the Bachmann part Number 89902 the one I want? Does it have the appropriate plug-ins for the wiring?