Sorry, I've used Bachmann repair in past. I now need to send in 2 again. Yet I can't recall now what the ' item number ' is...! Is it the Bmann model No. such as :  HO, 2-8-0 W/sound is item number ........But I go to your pictures of the locos available, the item number changes for each road name...Connie is packed to go to you with the mogul. Yet I can't recall Connie's road name (was going to change it some day). So I don't know its item No. ! Or am I way off base ?     Mark

Quote from: Br 98.75 on April 04, 2014, 02:38:33 PM
I had the same problem one or the rail pick up wires came out of the board with the black clip so i went in and soldered al mine to the board and i removed the stupid quick plug

Ok. So you are stating you bypassed all the orange (why they don't make them in black I'll never understand ) plugs and have them all a solid wire from engine to tender, yes? Did this create any unforeseen problems, such as now more of a potential of ripping out most or all wires if, say, while carrying it to the bench to say, weather it, you accidentally dropped engine then stopped the fall by hanging on to tender, say ? Or vise versa ? Or, the modification is the same value as with plugs in this respect  ?      Mark

10-4 on all replies...Mark

Much appreciated. But you state $25.  I thought non spectrum is $35 and Spectum is $45.  No ? Also, HO mogul needs: sound loss fixed, pilot truck spring, pin/rivet in small horizontal rod linkage (held together presently with tiny twisted copper wire), dynamo pipe broken off,  and engine hesitates in reverse and lifts up and down at cab end with each driver rev (but may exist in ALL the moguls). With all this is it a given that repair Dept. will total it and send new mogul to me ? I prefer the repairs instead as I like the way I weathered her.....
P.S. Shipping a 2-8-0 also. But only needs two wires reattached (one is torn from orange plug. Other is at edge of upper rear decoder). All still $25 each ?  
Thanks much,  Mark

Just thought I'd add one small detail to grade problem: If your 2.5% grade is on a curve you may as well call it a 3.5 - 4% grade as curve adds friction on inner flanges adding drag to train. I found this out after building my layout. I thought I was so cool about working out the one curved grade to be about 2.5-ish . THEN I realized the mistake after engines slipped on it.. But, since it's a 3.5Mi. class 2 switchback branch, 4-6 cars is enough to depict correct train lengths anyhow..

Quote from: Yardmaster on March 30, 2014, 10:54:50 AM
Give the service department a call at (215) 533-1600 and ask for the service manager.

Thanks ! Will do ....Mark

Yes, Sabadu should have stated the scale he's in. But, still, all anyone had to say was : If you're in HO then the minimum radius , except for switchers working very slow industrial track jobs, is 18 inches (smallest main line curves such as are on some branch lines ) No-go for say, Amtrak passenger train modeling. ....If in N scale smallest radius will be 12" for same given situations, that other than small switchers and freight cars, is a no-go for passenger trains and large locos. For same reason, yards and spurs are treated the same way.     

Hi all. Is there a way to find out if a particular loco of mine is still under warrantee ? I misplaced info on my end and thus can't recall how long I've owned it/them. One loco Idid cause damage to. But other one has completely lost sound, something I did not cause ( please no programing suggestions. I've done them ALL: (CV 128, CVs 30 -2 , 8-8 , 19 -0, 'still in consist', 29-38 ). It's Broken either in decoder, speaker, or wires of.  Thanks, Mark

Very nice lookin' RR. I like the pneumatic switch control. I have same engine house . I pulled it from layout thinking it 's style is  too German or European. My present one is a 2 stall .But now since I'm not alone might go back to the Euro looking one so as to have another yard track..

Steve, thanks. I'm very aware of no MUs (Multi unit) on real steam. In fact I get into this argument once in a while at, say, a club where someone DOES have steam in consist. I always thought this defeats the beauty of DCC, that separate crews need to get in sync throughout job up the hill or such. When 2 or more steam are running I want to see 2 or more engineers.. As far as CV 19, if it is the same as 'delete loco from consist ' on PowerCab buttons, I have done this to no avail. But I'll give IT a shot when I get home... I do think now something is shot in tender. I heard high volume at say, 250 (+-) causes too much heat and roasts something. I did have it at this level a long time.  ...Mark

Thank you to all pitching in. As CV 128 does show/read as a 200 value and that I have pushed F8 many times, that CV 29 is correct at 38, and that I've performed the 8 to 8 and/or 30 to 2, on/off power and that there is no fault-code, that headlight blinks 16 times after recycle, it's definitely time to send her into Bachmann repair ?  OR, does anyone have perhaps another test I can perform via CVs/functions which might correct this ? There has been no engine-idle sounds throughout ..
Thanks, Mark

Hi, I have two HO steam I need to ship to you for repair. When I log into 'repair' the blue form on page asks for item number. On right it says " To find item no. click on type of item and go to it to obtain this Number". I do that ("HO STEAM"), find picture of my 2-6-0 and my 2-8-0 but there is NO item number visible anywhere adjacent to the engines ! How do we request a repair when we don't know  ' item number ' for it/them ?!!! Leave alone not all road names are shown (though this is probably  ???a moot point ).   Mark

Thanks for replies. Went thru every CV related to sound including 8-8 and 30-2/cycle power on/off. No dice. I did figure out how to remove tender shell ( finally noticed tiny screw between other 2 which hold that 'C' strap over the wires. Nothing looked broken or smelled burnt. Put back shell...Probably will ship it to Bmann as my 2-8-0 has broken wires too.

How do we remove tender shell on an HO 2-6-0 ? All I can see are the tabs in rear under-frame. What else is to be removed/ unscrewed ? How lifted off ?

HI. With all the great replies above, I still don't know if you mean that your layout itself will be a "That 70s Show " themed .. Or, that you actually want to run model equipment made in the 70s, also. If so, then I guess you understand that it all will be analog not digital (DCC); that you'll wind up putting blocks (gapped/isolated sections of rail to park trains in while another is rolling via toggle switches). And that you accept no sound .. OR, do you mean theme is '70s real railroading (early Amtrak days of a moosh mosh of colors and rolling stock and colors of). If it  is just the era you want, not how trains are controlled, I really suggest you buy state-of-the-art digital ( DCC on board, DCC/sound or DCC ready (DC analog engines with plug under shell where a decoder is added in order to make it DCC, having bought a DCC throttle such as NCE, Digtraxx , lenz, etc. )..Believe me, DCC once over the initial costs, is a lot simpler to hook up than old analog due to never needing to do tons of wiring under layout for those blocks I mentioned and other things. You are young enough that you'll eventually most likely want to go DCC in future.  So may as well go there now and simply buy 70s type equipment and buildings...........