I'm in the midst of planning a 30"x54" N scale layout using Atlas Snap-Track and remote Snap-Switches. I see that the remote switch machines can be strung together for easier access, and I plan on doing so.
However, the wires from the manual to the remote switch machines (and from the machines to the power pack) only run so far... and, as can be seen in the hypothetical plan here, I have two switches on the side opposite where the main switch panel–consisting of said joined-together switch machines–will be located... my question is, it possible to have two separate panels and have them wired to the same AC connection on the power pack?



Main power-pack connections are denoted by thick lines. Green track sections are flextrack/cut to fit.

A long time ago, in a living room far far away... there was a boy named TheHighwayStar who received an Irish Railway train set (#00651) for his birthday. He was overjoyed, and to this still has this train today (albeit in much lesser condition–notably a tender coupler that was once Gorilla-Glued back on in panic!) He has but the loco and coaches today...

Well, that's enough of the third-person referral... in all the back-research I've been doing about this set, I haven't been able to pin down any manufacturing information aside from the product number. Could someone shine some light on this (what I presume is) limited-edition set?

I'm in sort of a dilemma here re: my track.

My layout, a small one (3x6 ft.) uses Tomix sectional track with roadbed, except for, thus far, two Atlas Snap-Switches (I don't have any of the Tomix brand switches, but I do have a fair amount of Snap-Track.)
Have done all the usual stuff to try to isolate the main reason why my locos keep stalling and occasionally derailing on these. Rails are clean as a whistle all around. Electrical connections–rail joiners AND power–are all spot-on. Swapped out one with a brand-new SS, same problem. Both locos have no problems running on the rest of the line.
Right now I'm operating the switches manually; I haven't wired the machines yet. I did notice that the points themselves aren't particularly responsive, if that's the right word, when the points are changed.

Should I move on to a different brand of switch, Bachmann's perhaps?

So I'm in the planning stages of my first layout. I'll have an approx. 3x6 ft. area to work with.
Here's my first draft. (Gridlines are in 6" intervals. All track heights are displayed, and the curved section of the outer oval is elevated at 2.5" above the straight section of the inner oval.)



What I'm mainly concerned with is the circled area; I thought it would be interesting to have a elevated crossover with the double oval, and given my loco and rolling stock–a small tank engine and shorty cars–I'd need about 2.5" of clearance. But I welcome any and all opinions as whether this might be feasible or not for my rolling stock to climb, and if so, how long would the maximum realistic grade on each side be?
The general shape given is what I'm no doubt proceeding with as the basis, and I have no problem with going with a simple "X" crossover instead of the up-and-over. My goal is primarily to maximize running length.