Received my first train set in 1973, TYCO. Played with that until about 1979. Went away to boarding school, university, tech school, started my career. Started again in 1996, a couple years after I bought my first house  After decades of building static models that just sat collecting dust the lure  of watching my handiwork move and my memories of being a kid working on the model railroad with my Dad got the better of me . Have been in neck deep ever since. Met tons of great people, improved my modelling skills greatly.  Belong to 2 clubs, in the middle orginising 2 shows, one local, one NMRA. Won't give up this hobby till I'm forced

brad

Gene, Thou art a  cruel knave. This poor fellow can't tell Spanish from English, yet you continue. Do you also shoot fish in barrels?

brad

ps. keep up the good work LOL

I'd have to say steamgene is probably your best bet. I've had to bend the wipers on 3 of the 5 of my 2-8-0's as they lost their ability to stay in contact with the wheels. I also cheated and soldered the wipers about have way up from where they come off the main bus. this greatly increased the side pressure and I haven't had any problems with tracking or stalling so far. Does this problem happen more on corners? If so your most likely looking at a wiper problem.

brad

It's not the spelling so much (although it is HORRID). The posts seem to alternate between utter jibberish with no real point or regard to the topic.and somewhat clear thought.  Somewhat like me before 10am

brad

Quote from: HOplasserem80c on February 15, 2007, 05:56:01 PM
ok first of all (nice one you crashed a train and almost broke it) ok and lionel HO makes a special kind of conductivity tape

And again I say HUH? Do you read your posts before submitting them?

   Anyways, it seems the wires may have pulled out of their crimped connectors. Soldering is great for wires that do not move around a lot, but for wires that need to flex and move, crimping is the way to go. I recently read an article on race car wiring and they were dead set against soldering wires  to terminals and connectors as it forms a  brittle joint that can break with movement and vibration (very prevalant in race cars). Although on a MUCH smaller scale the wires in a tender/loco lash up do have to move quite a bit.
I've used solder sleeves quite a bit in repairing car wiring except in doors where I always use crimp connectors. Hope you're back on the rails soon.

brad

As was explained to you in your other post in the general section "how can i" Yes you can hook power lock track up to DCC. I'm not sure why you'd get a DCC system if you don't have any locomotives with decoders.

brad

Jason, Check to make sure all the drives and gears are lubricated. Take the shell off and see if you can tell where the noise is coming from. Since it's new and your others do not do this, consider sending it in for service/replacement. Bachmann is first rate for standing behind their products.

brad

The decoder in my 2-10-2 took a 4 digit address so I'll assume that all B-mann decoders will accept long addresses.  On the topic of decoders, I can't reset or change anything on a  DN121 in my b-mann 10 wheeler. I've tried reseting CV9 to 9, adjusting acc/dec , changing adresses, nothing seems to work and the headlight won't come on from day one, except for the other day I ran a switch caused a momentary short and the headlight came on....I'm using an MRC Advance system and programming on the main.

brad

One of my fondest childhood memories is the years we lived in Whitehorse, Yukon. Some relatives were up to visit from Ontario and both our families set out to tour the Yukon and Alaska, 9 people in an 1977 Suburban (basiscally a big tin box back then) We stopped in Dawson City for 3 or 4 days to tour around the gold fields and the town. Across the road from the RCMP station where we camped) was a bunch of little steam engines that we played on for hours every day. I remember them being partly stripped of gauges, levers etc, but they were a lot of fun to play on just sitting in the park. Only when I got back into MRing did I realise how cool that was, being 10 and being able to play on old WP&YR locos. I have a bunch of black and white photos I took on my old Kodak Instamatic, the ones that took the 135 film insert, remember those? I also have a picture of all five kids sitting IN the chain links of the boom arm on a gold dredge outside Dawson.

brad

Even if they weren't perfectly detailed, a steamer with an all weather cab would be a great bonus. Surely CN/CP and their subsidiaries weren't the only ones to have alweather cabs were they?  A 4-4-4 Jubilee would be nice also.

brad

When I started my new layout, I wired it for DCC and have had nothing but fun, greatly simplified wiring, multiple tains with on throttle in different directions on the same main. I'm not a DCC snob, but with the price and simplicity of DCC, I couldn't see myself spending hours on wiring (I do enough at work) plus the price of good electrical switches, wire and control panels isn't getting cheaper either.

brad

There are many makers of replacement trucks for your cars, not only B-mann. I myself ussually use Kadee, Proto 2000, or Walthers trucks all with excellent results, although with the Walthers trucks I usually add metal wheels sets. If you have access to a Walthers catalogue, there is an entire section devoted to trucks and couplers.

brad

I think I'll buy a couple to match the old Roundhouse ones I have, thanks for the info.

brad