If memory serves... Try removing the screw that holds the trailing truck, I seem to recall that was part of the bottom plate (3 screws).

Regards,

Jonathan

Sounds like the cog drive belt is split.  This would allow the motor to spin... the cogged teeth will not catch because the belt is loose because the belt has a split in it.

This happens sometimes.

There are currently 2-8-0 belts available through the parts department.  They always sell out fast. So may want to consider ordering one or two while you have the chance.

Another possibility:

If your 2-8-0 is one of the original Spectrums (it will have white connector plugs instead of orange), there is a possibility that the bushings (holding the worm gear) will not seat properly in the frame.

The easiest fix is making your own bushings out of brass tubing, slightly wider than the original bushings. I can't remember the width of the tubing.  I do recall it's a fairly common size--something that can be purchase at a Hobby Lobby or Michaels Arts and Crafts.

I have performed these fixes.  They aren't difficult, though it will seem so at first.

Regards,

Jonathan

I have this loco, and the other versions as well.  The #1 pin socket is not marked. However, if you look very closely at the board, the #8 pin position is marked with an "8". Hard to see at first.

From experience I can say that the decoder will not program if installed backwards.  It may run on address #3, but it will run backwards.

I use JMRI on a laptop (Frog II interface) to program my locos.  Works well, if you give the system time to warm up.

Depending on your programming system, you may have to put a 1K ohm resistor across the tracks, so the decoder will respond to programming.

I have no experience with loksound. can't speak to that.

Regards,

Jonathan

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HOEMDGP40(DCCEQUIPPED).pdf

Gently spread apart the sides of the shell. Sometimes toothpicks work best for this.

Regards,

Jonathan

Well, that's unfortunate.  Does it appear to have been dropped?  If you can't get replacement drivers, perhaps you can use a gear-pulling tool and a quartering tool to straighten things out a bit.  Not fun, but something is better than nothing (platitudes really help I know  .

You got me to thinking... so, I pulled one of my Mikados out of the roundhouse to do some cleaning and repair a couple of loose details.  I took a couple of photos, since you were having issues with the tender.

First, I get what you meant about the trucks.  There is some kind of washer or shoulder that holds the brushes:

DSC_0579 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

The screws do allow you to slightly tighten or loosen, BUT there are nuts on the inside that complete the wiring assembly.  Too much tightening and loosening could dislodge those nuts:

DSC_0577_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0575 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

Finally, I tried to get in close for a shot of the pick up brushes on the drivers.  Hard to get close, focus, and light on the subject, but:

DSC_0580_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

You had mentioned current pick up was an issue.  Hopefully these shots might help you sort it out a bit.

Wish I could help more.

Regards,

Jonathan

Roger,

The weight in the smoke box area will prevent the front drivers from climbing the rails.

The tender truck contacts, in Bachmann tenders, are held in place by the pressure of the axles.  They aren't held in place by the bolster screws. The pick up brushes sit on top of the axles.

Check the plugs between the tender and the locomotive.  They may not be seated properly.  You should be getting electrical pick up from the drivers.  I haven't had any pick up issues with the Mikado.

If you applied snot to just one driver (recommended), the electrical contact should be fine with all the other wheels gathering current.

Regards,

Jonathan

John T.,

I have played around with these 0-6-0s quite a bit.  The only electronics in the loco, that I recall, are the small decoder and the on/off switch for the smokebox.

This is a link to one of my posts about it:

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18444.0.html

I realize that is has been 8 years (wow) since I disassembled this loco, but I am very surprised that there might be some new circuit board inside the shell.  The 0-6-0 I have from the 80's is very similar to my 2012 version-- except for DCC on board of course.

Oh, I've noticed all HO model manufacturers tend NOT to share detailed diagrams of their locomotives--not just a Bachmann thing.  Deciphering those rough diagrams given are quite challenging sometimes.

Regards,

Jonathan

Instead of bull frog snot (I have a bottle), I added weight.  Two 1/2 ounce slugs of lead went into the smoke box area, more weight in the steam dome and sand dome, plus a small strip of lead went under the cab roof.  The idea is to get the weight balanced between the center drivers.  This did the trick for pulling power.

I also double-head my trains as a rule.  With added weight, and two locos, I can pull a good sized train on level track--usually 20-30 cars in tow.

Regards,

Jonathan

The B&O's Mikados were the "Q" Class. Their USRA version of the Mikado was Q-3.

That's great idea about transferring the sound value boards.  I'll have to keep that in mind.  I have a number of the DCC, slope-tender 0-6-0s.

Regards,

Jonathan

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,32325.0.html

Roger,

If this is about the latest USRA Mikado (sound value), the link above may help.  I tinkered with a couple--took photos as I disassembled.

The lights are LEDs. The original board holds the resistors.

If you are installing a tsunami, by replacing the old board, you will have to add your own resistors. I usually use 1K ohm, 1/4 watt resistors.  The original light cans use some sort of surface mount LED.  Though, the cans are big enough where you may be able to fit regular LEDs if necessary.

I don't know what sort of glue is used to hold the lenses on the cans.  That may be a bit of a challenge, but my experience tells me that the factory glue may be weak enough to pry out the lenses.  That's a bit of a stretch.  So, be careful.

Regards,

Jonathan

Do you mean you tried to combine a large oval and a figure 8?  If so, you have set up a very complicated situation.

Regards,

Jonathan

Thanks, Ken.

There is a coal dump shed in the corner behind the tower. There's a hopper unloading, at this very moment. I know the shed should be a bit closer.  You'll just have to imagine an underground conveyance of some sort. 

Regards,

Jonathan

OK.

Outta ground cover.

Outta 50's vehicles.

Need backdrops for the skyboards.

So, I'm at a good stopping point for photos.

Started with 30 shots and chopped it down to a dozen that show the main areas of focus:

DSC_0553 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0554_02 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0555_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0557_02 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0559_02 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0562 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0563 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0565 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0567_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0569_01 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0570 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

DSC_0572 by Jon Vogel, on Flickr

Regards,

Jonathan

Sweet Betsy from Pike!

Do you make your own glue, too?

Ken, I bow in your general direction. Blown away, sir.

Regards,

Jonathan

Ike,

I would speculate that you are not having motor problems.

When you tap the shell, I'm guessing you are causing a loose electrical connection to engage and allow current to flow to the motor.

Caveat:  I don't have this locomotive. I don't know how to remove the shell.

However, I would follow the connections from the motor to the PCB/decoder.  There may be one of those press-fit tabs that isn't quite secure, or something of that nature... not uncommon in modern model loco construction.

Today's small electrical motors are pretty robust.  It would be a truly rare thing to have a faulty motor with a new loco.

Regards,

Jonathan