I don't mind all the technical jargon.  I run DC now, but I'm sure someday I will want to make the switch.  Right now, it's all greek to me.  The beauty of the forum is that it stands as a reference.  I have, on many occasions, run a search of the forum for particular subjects.  For instance,  I am now ready to start upgrading my plastic couplers for kadees.  I am researching every comment or instruction on compatibility, ease of installation and expense. 

When I'm ready for DCC, or wiring a lighting system, back to the forum I'll go to find out what kind of mess I'm getting myself into.

This is why I appreciate all the questions, both simple and complex.  You never know who may have gotten an "aha!" from your input.  I even smile when I see yet another question on whether a 4-12-2 will run on 12" radius.  This is how we learn. 

R,

Jonathan

It's always great to get a new engine that turns out as nice as you hoped.  Congrats!

BTW, I have "reworked" the inards of my 2-8-0 boxes so I can store them in one piece, without having to disconnect the wires.  Took a little while, but it's worth it.

S,

Thank you, gentlemen, for the great advice. I understand everything except keeping lubricant away from brushes and commutators.  It seems all my newer engines have sealed motors (can?).  I don't see how I could accidently get oil or grease in there.  Can it seep in?

S,

Jonathan

OK. I've studied everything I can find on loco lubrication.  I've been playing with my own layout for about 3 years now.  I've collected 13 new engines so far, and am getting brave enough to start opening up my locos for inspection.  I have Bachman Spectrum, Athearn RTR and Genesis, and one Atlas Silver Series Dash 8.  Haven't collected any of the high dollar engines... yet. I have done the hard-wire soldering of the Athearn RTR engines, following the on-line instructions I've found—surprised myself how well that turned out. 

As I open up each engine, regardless of manufacturer, I am finding copious amounts of lube on the worm gear, so much that it has sprayed on the chassis or whatever is directly outside the worm gear.  Some grease has found its way down to the inside of some wheels where the wipers pick up the current (Bach. diesels). All manufactures seem to squirt plenty of lube in the working parts.  I have spent time wiping out excess lube rather than applying it.  The wheels get cleaned with Goo Gone, and then the tiniest drop of conduct-a-lube is applied and wiped clean again.  As long as I keep the track clean, the engines run smoothly.  Have tried two track-cleaning methods; using Goo Gone or applying light conductive oil on the tracks.  Jury is still out on these two methods, but I seem to get the most crud off by simply wiping the tracks with dry, cotton t-shirt strips. I will say that applying oil to the track makes the trains run quieter.

So... I'm looking for validation.  I'm guessing no engine has more than 3 total hours of running time.  1. Is it too early to start looking for dry mechanical parts?  2. Is grease really necessary on the worm gears?  3. Do the driving rods on my steamers need to be lubed yet?  4. When I do lube them, can I cause the little screws to let go of the drive wheels/rods?   My 2-8-0 Connies are my favorite engines.  I am a Nervous Nelly every time I run them, but they sure look cool running down the rails!  I won't crack open their shells until I get more confident with the other engines.  If there is a site, dedicated to "how to's" on lubing HO steamers, with pictures or diagrams, I'd love to read about it. Thanks. Sorry for the rambling (English Major).

Regards,

Jonathan

Thanks, guys, I'll give it a shot.  Will let you know how it turns out.

S,

Jonathan

Hello,

I have ordered two H16-44 B&O Locos.  They will both be numbered 928.  I would like to double-head these from time to time.  So....  From previous threads, I have read that Bachmann paints or stamps their numbers instead of using decals.  I have also read that these numbers can be removed using an ordinary pencil-type eraser.  Can it really be that simple?

Before I make a mess of a perfectly good engine, I need to read it from someone who has actually performed this procedure... or a better way if there is one.  I believe I can get a dry transfer sheet from my LHS.  Thinking about changing one engine to #927 since there actually was a B&O 927 once upon a time.

Many thanks for your time and advice.

S,

Jonathan

I have retrucked, recoupled and run a few items from my grampa's hobby days.  He started HO in 1947.  One item I won't upgrade or run is a tin and brass box car with "land 'o' lakes" on the side.  It has brass trucks and a coupler system with metal rings and some kind of vertical hook in the middle.  I have three cars like that, and I've never seen anything else like it.  They sit in a display case to remind me of grampa and how he got me started in the hobby when I was 7.

Regards,

Was thinking about lichen, but haven't gotten that far in my planning, yet.  Is it a good filler?

Sorry all, I meant 400 trees not 4000!  oops.

J

JTF,

Yes, I make my own trees from WS armatures.  Costs about 15 cents a tree.  The big trees cost about 20 cents a piece.  Figure all trees will cost about $120 total when done.  Of course it's time consuming, but the results are better than pre-made... I think anyway.

S

Jonathan

Sincere Greetings!

I have been reading MR forums for some time, learning all that I can while planning and building my layout.  It seemed the right thing to do was to introduce myself and thank all of you for your advice and modeling information.  I chose this site because this seems to be the friendliest and most informative forum.  Again, thanks for putting me on the 'right track' to creating a good running railroad.  Also, it helps that nearly all my Bachmann equipment has been great right out of the box, from my 44-tonner to my Acela set.

A little about my layout:

I have taken over my 21' X 24' garage as a layout room.  The walls and ceilings are finished and painted (less dust), and I can sweep all my orts out the door after benchwork and scenery construction.  Only disadvantages are more frequent track maintenance and I have to stow all my rolling stock during the three coldest months.

My layout is in two halves;  on half is a double track mainline (min 24" rad), running CSX and Amtrak; the other half is a transition era shortline through hilly terrain with mining and passenger ops.  Trying to stick with B&O equipment 'cause I love B&O, but is really hard to find. Plus, due to lack of space, my old line has some pretty tight radii.  Two of my hidden turnarounds are 15" radius.  So I really love ore cars and the old time passenger cars.  I have two 2-8-0 Connies, one DCC and one not, and BOTH make around those tight curves with no problem...  as long as I don't overdo the lube/cleaner on the track.  Both turnarounds have easements and I adjusted the tender wiring a bit, though no weight was added to the tenders, yet.  There's about 350" of track to include two staging yards.  Layout is DC.

Problems so far?  Amfleet passenger cars "roll like rocks".  Gotta double head just to pull six cars.  Still working on a solution.  Graphite or oil have very limited results.  Perhaps someone knows a better way.  Just burnt out my first switch machine.  May transition to tortoise types (not cheap).  Who know garage floors were slanted?  Finally, I just planted 175 trees and my hills still look naked.  Looks like I'll need about 4000 more to finish the project (gonna take forever!)  Other than that, layout runs great so far.  Scenery and weathering is ongoing.  Hope to get into the photo part of the hobby in the future, so I can post pictures.  Been creating about three years now.

Sorry, I've rambled on enough.  Again, many thanks for your great words and links of wisdom.

Regards,

Jonathan