No problem at all.  First let me explain LEDs.  Light Emitting Diodes. I prefer working with dc circuits because it is more convenient to use batteries and dc power sources than ac.  Your LED will come with two leads.  The long lead is the anode which is the + positive lead and a shorter lead which is the cathode - negative lead.  The circuit I used is basically this with a switch thrown in to turn it on and off. This example shows 3 LEDs in a string or series.  You can use any number as long as the source voltage is adequate.  Each LED will have a voltage drop of approx 3.1 volts.  In my setup I just used two LEDs.

On my wiring, I clipped the red lead of the battery connector because it was longer than I needed, but it connects to one lead of the switch. The black lead coming from the battery connector goes to the LED that is farther away from the battery and connects to the negative lead, or the one that is to the left as you are looking at it. The remaining length of red wire connects to the remaining lead of the LED. The other end of the red wire connects to the LED nearest the battery and goes to the lead on the right. The current limiting resistor connects between the center lead of the switch and the remaining lead of the LED.  I hope this helps and clears it up a bit for you. A word of caution.  use a very low wattage soldering iron when working with LEDs.  They are very heat sensitive and if you have access to a heat sink clip...use that.  A small alligator clip will do.
Jesse

Hi, I am also a newbie and I found some nice layouts at this site.

http://www.thortrains.net/poorhox.html

Brian, I meant to post that I love your home town.  My wife and I were there just last month.

 8)Glad to help.  I'm still a newbie at model railroading (only been in the hobby one month).  But If I can help out in anyway...I'm here.

Jesse

I guess I had better read and heed.  I am a one month newbie into model railroading.  My vices were all toward Radio Controlled model aircraft since I am a retired USAF birdman.  So far all I have bougt are three F7A Santa Fe Super Chief engines and two B units.  I have picked up 12 passenger cars in various stages of disrepair.  Most of my work right now is just getting rid of all the horn and hook couplers, and I'm driving Sam nuts at kadee with questions about replacement knuckles

BTW, I am also a B&O fan.  I lived in Owings Mills, Md for 20 years while I was working for NASA at Goddard Space Flight  Center.  The old Western Marlyland tracks ran right behind my apartment.  As for Brunswick, I spent a lot of time roaming around that pretty little town on weekends. If you have not been to the old B&O museum in Balimer you have really missed a great adventure.  Ooooops, I forgot to mention that my only steam loco is a Bachmann 2-6-0, and I think it is a Forney but I'm not sure. It is a part of the John Wayne Duke Express set.



Jesse

I have a model Sinclair Filling Station and this is the simple little circuit that I used to put ceiling lights in.  All the parts are available from Radio Shack.

2 each clear white LEDs
1 switch single pole single throw.
1 1/2 watt 100 ohm resistor
1 9 volt battery with connector leads.
2 LED sockets
Misc. length of #18 wire.



Here is the illuminated station.

Jim, sorry for the delay in replying, but I have been waiting for Kadee to send me a different coupler.  At first Sam told me that I would need a #35 for the rear of the engine...I order the #35 and then I got an email saying that after I sent them the photo of the coupler that is on the engine now, the one they sent is wrong, it sould be a #27 or 28.  I have ordered them and am waiting for them to come in.  Will see what happens.  In the meantime my rolling stock is still coming in on a daily basis by UPS and Priority mail.  I have found some pretty good buys on EBay.

Jesse

No problem there, James.  I have removed both the front and rear hook and horn from the coupler box.  Installing the new knuckle coupler in the front won't be too much of a problem, drill a hole in the old pin holder and cement the new assembled draft gearbox in place.  It is the one in the rear that I am concerned about.

Jesse

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  I have my trusty jeweler's screwdriver out and will try to remiove the beast without cracking the truck.

Jesse

I recently acquired two Santa Fe Super Chief engines from EBay.  They both have the old horn and hook couplers.  I have received new #37 for the pilot coupler and #35 for the rear coupler from Kadee.  I have removed the pilot coupler from the engines, but I am not certain how to remove the rear coupler which is a truck mounted coupler.  I hope someone on the forum has some experience in this as I am a three week old newbie in model railroading.

Jesse