Quote from: Jerrys HO on April 07, 2013, 08:30:21 AM
Roger

Is there any way you can post that list? I wonder if it is the same for all Bachmann's new sound value loco's?

Jerry

I hope this contains some of what you are looking to find.

http://www.soundtraxx.com/factory/OEM%20pages/bachmann/bachmann.php

Towards the bottom of the page are the Sound Value decoder CVs.

Quote from: Jerrys HO on April 05, 2013, 06:53:55 AM
Steve
It may be a power issue. Try adding a feeder by your crossover. It could be that it is loosing the signal to the decoder through dirty tracks the more you run your trains or a faulty/loose rail joiner. By adding a feeder it may increase the signal to the decoder.
I have one Decoder equipped crossover and added a feeder right next to it and have had no problems except when I power my system up it always activates my points if they are in the straight position.
My plan is to replace it with an regular crossover like my other one.

Jerry

I thought of both and have eliminated both as problems. Anyway one of the DCC turnouts is less than 20 inches from the power connection.

I would replace it with a manual or hard wire turnout, but I am trying to go the other way so that I can automate my layout.

I have had the same problem with two of my Bachmann DCC turnouts for several years. If you find a solution, please post it.
I never have and the problem still occurs periodically and randomly.

I can't speak for others, but, I have yet to buy  an unpainted or unnumbered locomotive and I have no plans to change.

If this is a buzzing or humming sound. What kind of a system do you have?  Are it and you capable of CV programing? If so, adjusting the Start Voltage slightly on some Bachmann decoders will reduce or eliminate that hum.

And the Trix web site doesn't seem to be much better.

http://www.trixtrains.com/index.html

Here is the Marklin web site URL if you haven't already found it.

http://www.marklin.com/

I am afraid it is not very user friendly, but it may be of some help.

NICE

You didn't say what the radius of the curve is that you have, if not the wires, then have a look  at this.

I have found the 26" radius  works fine, but my 22" oval is problematic.

Will

As I said, I believe you will like the Dynamis as a controller. I know I did.

I also expected and planned for Bachmann to follow thru on the promise

they made  more than THREE YEARS ago to upgrade the Pro Box, which in addition to

other features was to include a computer interface.  Something that was and is important

to me. As like a lot of other model RR enthusiasts, I use a  computer to operate and control

my layout via JMRI and WiiThrottle. ( for those of you who are unfamiliar with JMRI and

are interested, go to this URL)


http://jmri.sourceforge.net/

A computer interface is something still not available with the Dynamis system; even with

the Pro Box addition.


Will

I had a Dynamis system which as a controller, I liked very much. My plans WERE to add a Pro Box as soon as the promised features were added(including the computer interface).
Sadly this never as yet has happened; which is why I now have two systems that do offer
the features promised for the Dynamis Pro Box upgrade, including the computer interface.
Without the promised Pro Box upgrade the Dynamis, even WITH the Pro Box added, remains very limited, though as just a controller, I still like it.

Will

I hope you get an answer.  

I have had my Dynamis for four years and that is the one  thing I still can't

get to work with the Dynamis that should work.

Good Luck!

Will

The most authentic appearing Freedom Train cars I have seen have been "kit bashed".

Try the internet first, get what you can and then do as others suggested and paint up  what you can  and "kit bash" the others. Find some good photos of the actual train and go from there.

Unless you were fortunate enough to receive the turntable already fitted with a decoder, or have done this yourself, the turntable, as  sold by Bachmann is "DCC Ready" and you will need to obtain  and install a decoder. Just follow the instructions that came with the turntable.

All that is then required is to plug in the decoder and connect the turntable to your layout. The turntable is powered through your track and it would be programmed and controlled just like a locomotive with the direction switch of the Dynamis handset controlling the direction of movement of the turntable and the throttle controlling the speed of rotation.

It is also possible to operate the turntable DC and the trains DCC. That is a little more complicated and not well explained in the instructions that come with the turntable. This is what I did.

One  red cable must connected between the plug on the bottom of the turntable and the black controller box supplied with the turntable and another red cable connected between that same controller box(It has a connector on each side) and a standard Bachmann DC controller/W power
supply( I just used the one that I had been using when my layout was DC).  In this configuration,
the black controller box controls the direction the turntable rotates and the throttle on the DC controller will control the speed of rotation. All of your track on and off the turntable will be DCC.
Be very careful which track on the turntable you connect to your layout as it will only work one way. This is true with both the DC and the DCC configuration of the turntable.

The  Sound Commander suggestion seems  like a  good one. The 2-8-0 is one of Bachmann's best steamers.
And, the Dynamis will do everything you would want until you get into deep programming and/or
controlling your trains using a computer. I have controlled as many six trains running at a time with my Dynamis. I will say that many at once takes a bit of concentration though. Also, price wise, it is a
good option as they can be found at very good prices on the Internet.

Will