Vary nice job, I particularly like your transfer table's, the black back ground is different  and looks like it working well, may try it out.  Hows the trackmoble run, was thinking of getting one for the yard, but not sure how it would run on PECO Insulfrog's.

Les

You may want to check out, http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,11913.msg96712.html#msg96712

I asked the same question not to long ago.

Les

I like that idea of using Code 83 track all around the turntable, and have a couple of questions.  The questions could also help ali, he would probability have the same ones.

1.Would you still use roadbed or is it not used to keep the track low to the ground.
2.I would think that the adapter track from code 100 to 83 is needed for the transition from ez-track, my idea is to use the code 83 from the turnout going to the turn table which would give room for tapering the track or is this what your talking about causing problems.

Thanks
Les

jward:

Thanks for your attempt, understand you didn't have one in front of you and the IPB's (illustrated parts breakdown) has a lot to be desired, (there not what I'm use too)  they don't even show the screws that hold the shell on under the fuel tank or for that matter the fuel tank evens comes off. 
 
Daylight and mf:

Your instructions where right on, thank you. 

Good thing I did open it up, I found a screw on one side of the back truck assembly not even screwed in, I thought it was binding a little and that was probably the reason.  It's been a good learning experience and I also found out what I wanted to know,  the decoder board is hard wired, so I'm not sure why they sent the instructions in the set for one with a plug, maybe it was for the CV's list.

Thanks everyone. 
Les

Thanks, Will give it a try today and let you all know how it turns out.

Les

OldTimer:

It's no fun To RTFM first,  you a least wait until it's put together and usually not working. 

Les

I'm trying to get the shell off the Locomotive that came with the DCC U.P. set (503) and have been unsuccessful in my attempts, could use some instructions on how to remove it without damage, the diagram shows what looks like two tab in the middle on each side, so I have tried to pry the sides out but I'm worried about damaging the shell. Here is the diagram I'm looking at:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H635X_IS005.pdf

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks 
Les

Yes C1,C2,C3 are capacitors, there called SMD's (surface mounted devices).  The technology is getting smaller so they can do more on a smaller circuit board.

Les

From the video, your training him pretty will,  most kids I know would want to watch them go full throttle.   

Les

Tell the little guy Happy Birthday. 

Les

I've also been replacing the rail joints with the Atlas wired and have found out that if you take a small pair of needle nose pliers and put one side on the end of the rail and the other on the end of the joint and gently squeeze the joint will slide off with out damage to the track or the joint.  Be careful not to twist the pliers to much or it may break the track loose from the roadbed, which happened on my first attempt. 

Les

Keusink:

I don't have a 4-8-4 so I don't have the correct pin out, but from the pictures I've seen they look similar to mini Molex plugs which the pins are held in with small tabs on the sides of the pins,  If the wire didn't break off the pin then it should be fairly simple fix by gently spreading the small tabs back out and pushing the pin back into the correct hole.  If the wire did break off the pin then it's going to require a bit more to repair, but still fixable.

I don't know how electorally inclined you are, and I'm mainly going from pass experience with the equipment I work with.  I hope this helps and if I'm incorrect in my thinking, I'm sure someone will chime in and set me straight.   

Les

BradKT:

I just saw this at Tony's Train and thought of this post, not sure if this will work for you, but it worth a shot.

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/station_stopper.htm

EDITED: Sorry jump the gun, I didn't notice that was discontinued.

Les

BradKT:

You may want to check out this post,  I asked basically the same question.  It has a lot of good information.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,11970.msg97158.html#msg97158

Les

NarrowMinded:

Yes I was going to use it for laying over the OSB board, But thinking about it you may be right, when I looked at it and felt it, dose kind of feel like ceiling tile so there is a good possibility that it may fall apart if it gets wet. 

What about layering it with the blue foam, the only size that is carried out here for blue foam is 1/4"X 48"X 50 feet and it's $35.00, and they don't have any pricing for the thicker stuff so it's hard to compare if it would by cost effective to just use the blue foam and keep layering it to the thickness I want which is about 2" and that's for the depth of the turntable.

Thanks
Les