I went to Lowe's to price materials for the bench work and found this, It seams this may work instead of using the foam insulation. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_15387-157-00634_4294858109_4294937087?productId=3014222&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Acoustic%2BInsulation_4294858109_4294937087_?cm_cr=Insulation-_-Web Activity-_-Insulation Accessories _A1_Activity-_-SC_Insulation  Accessories_Area1-_-22108_3

Thanks
Les

Full Maxx:

Would this work for what you want, I use to work here and they carry the HO pre-made tunnels in straight and curved.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/860490.asp

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/860491.asp

You could also check other Hobby Stores for better prices.

Les

Doneldon:

Yes, I've been looking at using acrylic for when it's all done, but for now 1/8" flex board around the edges raised 2" above the layout just enough to protect the trains from falling  and stuff from being knocked off.

As for the turntable, the Walters I'm planning on using (130', 933-2829) is actually a little cheaper then the 90' on the few site's I've researched, as was suggested earlier in this post by hotrainlover, plan for later expansion so I wont need to re-buy.  If things go as planned and as time progresses it will become bigger.  The turntable is down the road a ways anyway.

Quote from: Joe Satnik on March 04, 2010, 01:38:31 PM

A step stool ... AND an overhead monkey bar....(Cue chimpanzee scream sound effect).

Joe:

Vary funny but not to bad of an idea especially with my lack of good balance,    and hopefully I won't need anything like the topside creeper for a while, I would buy it, if Dave was included.  Once I get the framework built, I can figure out what I can use safely and go from there.

Quote from: Joe Satnik on March 04, 2010, 01:38:31 PM

Skinny?  ....Just wait (weight) a few years...

As for the few years, I'll let you in on a little secret, I'll be the BIG 50 in August. (god I'm getting old).    But not as old as some here, which equals out in experience. 

Ryeguyisme:

Yes Joe explained to me about the roof should not be secured and will probably not secure any of the roof's that have track going inside.   

Thanks all
Les

Joe:

Understanding the why really helps,    The layout is going to be about 40" high with the casters and me being 5'7" and Farley skinny, so the beer belly is not to much of a problem. 

With the layout being movable will help with the reaching and having a good step stool will also allow a little more reach, I think I should be able to reach the center (I hope).   Will soon find out, in the next week or so I'll start the new framework.

Thanks again 
Les

Joe:

Thanks for the tip, and yes, I'm designing the bench work with caster's so it can be moved around the garage so access should not be to much of a problem (I hope).  Can you expound a little more on the roof part, I'm assuming it's for accessibility but I'm a little unclear why I would need it, a few examples would be real nice.

Thanks 
Les

uncbob:

YOU ARE CORRECT, I do want everybody's input, ether good or bad and then from there reply's I take the parts I think would work for me or parts I like.  I've been on enough forums to know that most reply's are taken with a grain assault and are the ideas of the one writing it.  So keep the comments coming. 

Pacific Northern:

Thanks for your input, this is just an over all plan of what I want to achieve and it's going to take a long while to build and will most likely change as it progresses and I come up with new ideas.

Pdlethbridge:

Thanks, I will have fun.  I've been watching the train just go around and around on the oval I have and it gets boring for me, that's why I want a set-up that going to keep me interested and busy anytime I run it.

Thanks all 
Les

I can appreciate that, what I have planed is a yard and maintenance theme, where I can come in and build a train up, sent them over the scales, run it a round for a bit and then bring it back to the yard and tare it down and send the cars for maintenance and or Loco's for fuel/repair, change things around and build up another train and do it all over.

I guess you can say, to each there own.   

Les

OldTimer:

Thanks for the idea.

Les

Here's an update to my layout plans, All the connections are being done with wired rail joints spaced 3 feet apart and breaking that down into four power district's using a PM-42 and terminal blocks.

The lower left turn out is going to be the programming track isolated from the rest of the layout, the top curves are 26" with the rest being 22 & 18", the turnout on the right side is for a diesel fueling station.  The incoming and outgoing tracks from the turn table should be the only reversed loop which the turn table will automatically change the polarity as needed.

This is just a general plan, and most likely will get changed around once I actually start laying track, but it gives me a good overview of what I want to do. If anyone has any ideas or comments please feel free to chime in.

Thanks
Les

lexon:  Nathan:

Thank you both for your inputs.

Jim: I was hoping you would chime in, I've downloaded the manual for the PM-42 and  after reading through it, it's going to do what I want, which is limit the current to the layout so the full 8 Amp's is not going to the rails all at once, and it's also going to be nice to be able to adjust the amount of current that dose, so as the layout grows it can be changed as needed.  So that will be my next purchase along with a few DS-64's for switch operations.

Thanks 
Les

I've been doing searches on this forums for posts containing information on this subject, but all my searches keep coming up empty or something that's not even close to what I'm looking for. 

What I'm trying to find out is the best way to connect to the booster, do I need a fuses holder/circuit breaker on both the A and B rails.  I'm using an 8 Amp. Booster so normally the fuse size should be 8 Amp.. I was thinking of cutting down the fuses size to about 5 Amps so it would blow at a lower current rating,  since I don't need the whole 8 Amps. At this time.

But on the other hand using a lower fuse rating would not allow the command station to do it's job in indicating a short, it would just blow the fuse. My main concern is welding something to the rails with the higher Amperage.

Thanks 
Les

So if the rerailer doesn't realign the trucks on the rail, what is the purpose for them?

Full maxx:  I have the EZ-Command that came with the set, and used it for the few days while waiting on the Digitrax super Chief Xtra to come in. I liked the EZ-Command for it simplicity, but wanted a system that I could do more with, like change the CV's and be able to read them back. 

It sounds like you have a smart little guy there for he age. 

Les

I can understand that,  I'm trying to get my grand kids involved and hoping to get all the track and accessory's need for the start of my project, when the Income Tax gets in.  The building and other minor stuff can wait and I can get as needed.  My main interest is learning the new DCC system and get it wired properly so everything runs smoothly (I hope). 

Les

Appreciate the information, will give that a try.

Thanks
Les

Update: just tried it out and work great for me.

Thank You
Les