How does the EZ Uncoupling magnet with Brakeman work? Does it work well? Is there any other ways that I can uncouple cars without lifting them off of the track?
Thanks,
cody
Good question Cody...there are at least a couple other ways to uncouple cars. May I assume your cars are equipped with magnetic couplers (such as Kadee, Accumate or EZmate brands)? If so the first method is to obtain a Richo uncoupling tool. This is basically a plastic 'fork-like handle' with two magnets glued on. One slips the tool over the couplers and they usually part from each other.
The second (and cheaper) method is to use shish ke-bab skewers. These can be purchased, by the bag, at your local dollar store (a bag will last you a lifetime). To use the 'skewer' method, push the cars together to allow some slack between the couplers. With a gentle, twisting or twirling motion, insert the skewer between the two opposing coupler faces...they should spring apart. Take your time as this method takes a little practice to get proficient.
Personally, I have had poor to marginal success with Kadee's uncoupling track magnets...so I don't use them. The Richo tool usually works quite well. The skewer method usually works well; but requires that you use two hands (one to move the cars together and the other to handle the skewer).
I hope this helps.....Ray
Thanks CNE, but where can I find one of these Richo uncoupling tools? And I do use EZ Mate couplers. But does the Bachmann EZ uncoupling magnet with the brakeman work well and how does it work?
thanks,
cody
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=475
This is the product in question.
thanks,
cody
Cody,
I concur with CNE Runner. I have had VERY poor results with the EZ Mate Magnets. I currently use the wooden skewers.
I didn't know about the Richo uncoupling tool, but I am going to look into it.
CNE Runner--does the Richo tool seem to work better than the skewer? Are they easily obtained?
I have had good results with the Kadee under-the-track magnet. It's strong enough to handle any company's magnetic couplers. Only draw back... you are stuck with it in one place. I infer you want to be able to uncouple anywhere you choose. Then the uncoupling tool works well. If cost is the issue, then skewers are really, really cheap, and they work.,. with a little practice.
Regards,
Jonathan
Uh guys...I owe you an apology. The uncoupling tool is NOT produced by Richo - but is made by RIX. It can be seen (and purchased) from Walthers as part # 628-14. They are rather expensive at $3.49 (I was kidding). Given the shipping charges I think I would buy a couple. Trust me the 'Golden Years' ain't that golden...the second thing to go is your memory - I don't remember the first.
Kadees: I really have never had much luck with Kadee and their various uncoupling schemes. To be honest, I haven't tried their Delayed Magnetic Action coil unit [also under track mounted]; so I can't comment on its performance. I do agree with Jonathan: the drawback is it is fixed in one location - necessitating the purchase of more than one unit...@ $16.95 each no less.
Couplers are like opinions: everyone has their own and aren't interested in yours. I have used Kadee couplers for years and deem them OK. Currently I use Kadee couplers in difficult installations as they offer so many types/sizes. My coupler of choice are EZmate. I have never had a minute's trouble with EZmate couplers and like the fact that I don't have to worry about that darn copper return spring on the Kadees. [Yes, I know Kadee now offers a whisker sprung unit.] The only drawback to EZmate is that they come in one flavor...which doesn't work in all installations. Also I am told EZmates can fail on trains of 100+ cars. Usually I buy my EZmates in bulk from Micro Mark.
On my Inglenook Switching Puzzle the RIX tool works just about flawlessly. It isn't 100%; but at $3.49 I can live with that. Skewers are, as said by Jonathan, very cheap and work at least as well - maybe better - than the RIX tool. I would suggest you get one of each and see which one you like. If you don't like the RIX tool, you can easily sell it at a train show (we sold 11 of these at one show for $5 each).
Ray
Good Morning All,
I am like several others here, not having the best of luck with any in track magnets to uncouple cars. One of the big problems with the magnets is their placement. At my club, GATSME, we had to remove a couple of the magnets in passing sidings because anytime an engine staggered due to dirty track, whatever, the slack bunched and cars continually uncoupled. Ironically, these were the magnets that seemed to work everytime.......when you did not want them to work. Most of the time, the club members use the aforementioned skewers.
I also have experience with the Rix uncoupling tool. It takes a bit of practice to get it to work right because the two magnets involved are really a bit too strong. And, by the way, do not use the Rix tool around any car or engine with metal handrails. Nothing like pulling an engine away and as you start to lift the tool away, the caboose comes with it.
Now to the skewers. I like them best. I believe Kadee makes a tool that is similar, but in plastice. Anyway, I disagree that you need two hands. Well sort of anyway. You need one hand for the skewer and one for the throttle. You simply push back against the train. This is called bunching the slack. Put the skewer in between two couplers and twist clockwise. Why clockwise? Look at the skewer once it is in the couplers. Giving it a clockwise twist makes the knuckles push to the open position. Counter clockwise would push the knuckle closed. It is also wise to occasionaly "sharpen" the point and put some graphite on the tip
I had the same concerns as ebtbob when I purchased Kadee's delayed magnetic uncoupler. I installed min in the middle of the ladder for my terminal. My fear was that if an engine stalled while terminating (which is common in this section of the layout) the cars would uncouple.
I just installed the device yesterday and it works beautifully. The delayed action uncoupler allows you to stop the consist over it (if necessary) with couplers over the magnet without uncoupling them. In order for them to uncouple, one of the cars would have to be reversed slightly while still over the magnet. I tested this over and over with trains operating in push and pull mode and there was no unwanted uncoupling.
I don't know if I'd risk installing them on the mainline though. If it was a necessity, I'd recommend a magnetic uncoupler that is activated by a switch (if the layout can accommodate it.
Bob - They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks...it isn't necessarily so because you did! I have been using skewers for years, and I never realized (too obvious I guess) that the direction you twist the skewer makes all the difference in the world. I tried it on my small test track with a variety of cars and locomotives and, voila, it worked beautifully!
I guess I should have been more specific regarding using your other hand when uncoupling. When uncoupling cars that are not attached to a power source, you need to provide some coupler slack...this is done with your opposite hand. Normally, however, some power source (read: locomotive) is hooked up to the cars and simply backing up the locomotive provides the necessary slack.
Sharpening the end of the skewer has never been an issue; but I will look closer at that procedure also. The addition of graphite is a good idea (yet another one I didn't think of) and should make the skewer operate with less friction.
Thanks for the advice,
Ray
Ray,
You are welcome. The things you can learn from this site is the main reason I keep coming back after so many years.
Bob
Quote from: mlrr on August 21, 2009, 07:56:53 AM
I had the same concerns as ebtbob when I purchased Kadee's delayed magnetic uncoupler. I installed min in the middle of the ladder for my terminal. My fear was that if an engine stalled while terminating (which is common in this section of the layout) the cars would uncouple.
I just installed the device yesterday and it works beautifully. The delayed action uncoupler allows you to stop the consist over it (if necessary) with couplers over the magnet without uncoupling them. In order for them to uncouple, one of the cars would have to be reversed slightly while still over the magnet. I tested this over and over with trains operating in push and pull mode and there was no unwanted uncoupling.
I don't know if I'd risk installing them on the mainline though. If it was a necessity, I'd recommend a magnetic uncoupler that is activated by a switch (if the layout can accommodate it.
I think I might try that product. The only times that I will use them is when switching inductries where the only cars that will get pushed over the magnet are ones that need to get uncoupled.
I too do not use magnets as I'm close enough to uncouple cars by hand. I use a long very small bladed screw driver. Placed between the couplers and a quick turn and you good to go
I want to share an experience I had, last Sunday evening, which is germane to this thread.
We were invited to a fellow (local) model railroader's home to see his layout. Jim 'X' disagrees with my stance on magnetic couplers and uncoupling magnets. The intent of the visit was to demonstrate how: 1) and experienced operator handles trains' and 2) how well, correctly installed magnets and couplers, respond.
Please understand that this person is extremely experienced in the hobby and has a to-die-for layout (his scratchbuilt structures are unbelievably well done). Time and time again we experienced false uncouplings and failures when trying to uncouple. As the evening went on, Jim became more and more frustrated (my little ribbing didn't help matters). Finally I took out my RIX uncoupler and a couple of skewers. I asked Jim to use either the RIX or the skewers and see what the success rate was. Trust me, Jim was very, very quiet after that demonstration and is probably ripping out his uncoupling magnets. [Jim: I know you lurk on this forum from time to time and I will carry your full name to the grave...honest. Hee, hee.]
Ray
The RIx Uncoupling tool:
http://www.rixproducts.com/6280014.htm
Is it designed to just stay in one place or is it meant to be moved?
Also, the white flag-like structure towards the top. Can that be cut off or is of any importance?
Also, will this work with Bachmann EZ Mate couplers?
Thanks,
cody
Hi Cody. The RIX uncoupling tool is a hand tool and meant to be moved wherever it is needed. You simply insert the tool between the couplers (a little slack in the couplers helps tremendously) and they part. The flag-like structure is the handle and helps keep the tool oriented in the right direction (namely alongside the couplers). When you purchase the RIX tool, you have to install (read: glue) the two magnets to the white plastic handle. The RIX tool will absolutely work - and work well - with EZmate couplers. Most of the couplers I have installed, on my rolling stock, were Bachmann EZmates...never had any trouble with them.
Ray
Thanks Ray,
Can the uncoupling device be left in one place?
thanks,
cody
no. the tool must be inserted between the cars. it is portable and can be used anywhere. it is not designed for a permanent mounting.
Cody - 'J' is correct...it is a portable tool (like a screwdriver) and is used where needed. If you want a permanent uncoupler then you will probably want to consider one of the models Kadee offers.
Ray