what's the difference between the Nickel Silver E-Z Track® (with gray roadbed) and the Steel Alloy E-Z Track® (with black roadbed)? which one requires less "maintenance"? In the past, I've laid the cheaper flex track and contantly have had problems with the track needing cleaned. I'm looking for zero maintenance if at all possible. wasn't sure if the nickel or steel alloy would be the way to go.
Sorry to say, there isn't any zero maintenance track, either in the model world or in real life.
But I don't like cleaning track either. I do like trains that run every time I turn up the throttle. I don't like flickering headlights. I do like smooth, low speed operation. Did I mention that I don't like cleaning track to get all these other things?
The thing that works for me is a little bit (a very little bit) of conductive oil on the rails. Labelle type 108 is one such oil. Your local hobby shop should have a selection to choose from. I put a few drops on a small square (2 to 3 inches square) piece of clean cotton cloth, then wipe the tops of the rails with the cloth right after I have cleaned them.
If you clean your wheels and rails, oil them immediately, then oil them every year or so from then on, you will come as close to zero maintenance as you can get. And you will not have to worry about whether you use brass, steel or nickel-silver rail because they will all work equally well.
Jim
what do you clean the rails with? just a generic "track cleaner" and a cloth? my first attempts were very flustrating with my rails getting dirty. I'm not sure I had oiled them though....
What "era" would you consider the Bachmann Overland Express ? I'm new to model railroading and would like to set up a very basic layout for my train while keeping within the proper historical timeframe.
Mid-Late Steam, the 4-8-4 Northerns were first made in 1930, so that is the limiting factor. They ran until about the end of the steam era.
For a minor cleaning, I use a cloth dampened with Varsol (paint thinner) but others have used Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) with good success as well.
If I have been throwing around a lot of glue and plaster, I often have to do a major cleanup afterward. This involves using 320, then 600 grit wet & dry paper lubricated with Varsol. This is generally a one time thing.
After cleaning and drying the rails, then I add the oil.
Jim
does a rolling stock track cleaner , just clean the tops of the rail or does it clean the whole rail down to the ties ..
Quote from: mf5117 on December 05, 2009, 10:24:55 PM
does a rolling stock track cleaner , just clean the tops of the rail or does it clean the whole rail down to the ties ..
Mostly just the top of the rail.
I thought so . I wasn't sure I had been thinking of buying a cleaner for the HO layout when I get it back up and running again ... still using the eraser and solvent cleaner
Like Jim said, cleaning with a solvent and small rag is the best way to go. I have several "track cleaning" cars to include vacuum cleaners and I run them all the time. I still need to wipe the rails down from time to time. I have used the conductive oil but not in the manner Jim perscribed. I need to try that. I like to work the trains not clean! ;D I use alcohol and have not tried Varsol.
Jim, will the Varsol attack the plastic? I have used it a good bit on vehicles but not on any plastic. Stephen