someone told me that the height of a nmra gage is correct for tunnel clearance . just seems kinda tight . Im at that point trying to get clearance on a 4% grade crossing part of the mainline on my layout . it's tough with only a 5ft x 9ft layout . man I'm struggling with this . I want my basement back .
HO nmra gage
Yes it is the correct height, but keep in mind the the gauge has to be at a 90 degree angle on the rail for it to work correctly
And some modern cars such as an AutoMax may exceed the NMRA gauge.
That's what i thought , just wanted to make sure . The height of the EZ Track road bed is killing me . 4% grade on a 5x9 is way to much, and i know I will regret it in the long run . But I want my trains running in both directions . Terry T posted some layouts and I finally used one of those . I believe it was called " EZ track Layouts Here " I made some changes with the 18" radius inner loop to accommodate the 4% grade . It's rather unique but tight on the edges . hey thanks 5117
4% grades will prove to be a poor choice, unless you plan on having a logging layout never exceed 3% grades as a good rule of thumb.
Hey thanks Nigel , I didn't think about that . hmmmm Lord knows I have all makes and models . Gonna have to re-think this . I'm one to have 6 or 7 strings parked , and run 2 or 3 of them at a time . And knowing me it would happen . Thanks for the info , I can see I still have alot more todo . hmmmm
peace 5117
It's the over and under thing . Actually was going to be a pulp wood mill . just up the grade and back down . With passing underneth on the inner loop . was just trying to make room some how ...
Yeah I know what your saying Mark, but if its not too late I'd make some changes if I were you. The problem is that once you go above a 3% grade, your pulling ability decreases exponentially, for example if you can pull 15 NMRA weighted cars on a level grade, you could likely only pull 1 or 2 NMRA weighted cars up a 4% grade under ideal conditions (i.e. metal wheels, everything well lubed (but not too much), etc). The same holds true in real life (1:1).
I just went through the same thing building a helix for a portable 0n30 layout. Part of my solution was to use regular sectional track instead of E-Z Track. That saved about 1/4".
One place where the track passes over itself, I used a bridge and cheated a bit in its construction. Instead of ties over stringers over cross members, I glued the rails directly to a 1/8 thick deck, then planked between the rails to hide the fact that there are no ties and no structure below the deck. Ballast would be more appropriate for a modern bridge. A few well placed trees will keep the curious from looking under the bridge. My cheater bridge saved another 1/4" or so.
I ended up with 3-1/8" clearance under the bridge and 3-1/2" rail head to rail head in the 18" radius helix (3.1% grade.) I figure you should be able to do as well with an up and over figure 8 or similar layout. And perhaps you can do even better if you drop the track a bit where the upper level crosses over it. Twenty-two inch radius would also help.
Jim
i just went through the same thing, except my layout is only 4 x 4 1/2 feet. i managed to get an over and under with a 3% grade on one side and a 4% grade on the other. they have caused me no operational problems other than reducing the number of cars i can pull. like jim, i cheated a little on the height. the spots where the upper level crosses the lower have switches so i couldn't use a bridge there. so i kept the 3/4" pine board everything is laid on, and lowered my clearances to clear my highest car, a 40' high cube boxcar. for me that is adequate, anything taller will probably be too long to run on 18" curves.
Thanks for the info , very helpful . I took 4 pieces of 1/2" foam board and raised the height by 2" inches on my table . You gave me the idea of where the grade starts keeping it 2" inches .And dropping everything else by 1/2" ,to give me alittle more clearance for the tunnels . I really think it might workout . Going to cut in a river threw part of the layout . My girlfriend has done a good job on the scenery board that we will cookie cut into the foam board . I will keep you posted on how this goes . Thanks to all again ....mark f 5117
This might help if you haven't built the right-of-way yet: Don't just build up. You can have one half of your track go up and the track crossing underneath go down so both tracks have grades but they will be much less severe.
On my 4% grade , I put a Atlas plate girder bridge and now I have more clearance than I knowwhat to do with about 3/4 inch .The Ez track roadbed meets the bridge ,and will enable me to build up to it . With the hilly terrain we will have . Pizzzza we made it .now I have the over and under I want . And the double head gp40 makes it just fine pulling 5 cars. makes it up and down no problem...
excuse me on the post . I used a girder bridge . on the crossing .about 50" into the incline it crosses the inner 18" radius loop on the curve of the 18" rad. The EZ track roadbed was giving me a height problem . I had the bridge laying around ,and thought i would have to cut the tabs off the EZ track .but with a couple of rail joiners it fit nicely . so won't be a tunnel but a bridge crossing threw a valley hilly terrain. I double headed 2 GP40's and pulled 5 40 ft pulp wood cars up and down the incline . so far it worked out . still have a couple of turnouts I need to figure out at the top of the grade .going to use a switcher up in the pulp wood yard . Why is it when ever there is a high elevation .the suggestion of a logging yard is brought up .