(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m593/garybear/bac89903.jpg)
I am desiring to 'borrow' the trucks from a B'mann tender, 89003, as they have electrical wipers I could use urgently elsewhere. I have viewed the accompanying documentation (with the tender) and searched internet forums--including this one--without finding needed answers regarding disassembly.
I partially back out the screw to the rear truck, but when released, the screw head moves to the opposite direction. I am fearful that there is an unillustrated electrical connection affixed to this screw. The screw to the front truck remains snug, but again, I fear that I am twisting an unillustrated electrical connection.
Desiring to see what lies in the tender, I again find the accompanying documentation and internet searches to be of little value aside from affirming that access s/b possible for decoder install. I have removed two phillip head screws from the bottom of the tender and pull upwards on the shell without indication of possible separation.
I am desiring instructions as to how to remove the shell from the chassis in order to address both the issue of truck removal, and later decoder install. [Note: the trucks w/b returned, or replaced, before decoder install.]
Thanks, Gary
Take a look at the service parts sheet for the 4+8+2 Heavy Mountain. The Southern came with that tender. The front of the tender comes off. there is a tab underneath in front. Two screws hidden under truck toward center.
Bob
Quote from: bobwrgt on January 13, 2011, 07:06:10 PM
Take a look at the service parts sheet for the 4+8+2 Heavy Mountain. The Southern came with that tender. The front of the tender comes off. there is a tab underneath in front. Two screws hidden under truck toward center.
Bob
The Southern comes with the Hicken tender not the Medium Vandy
Readers! My question remains unanswered!
Bob corrects himself in identifying the oil tender accompanying the mountain locomotive as the Hicken style tender which I also own and managed to open for decoder installation.
The Medium Vanderbilt Oil Tender is a horse of another color...at least as disassembly goes. I am unable to identify which, if any, locomotives the Medium Vanderbilt Oil Tender was sold with. I acquired mine as a product unto itself, item #89903.
Thanks, Gary
Garybear
I just took apart a medium vanderbilt tender. As you mentioned there are two screws holding the tender body on. After removing the two screws gently lift up the rear tank portion of the tender.
Thats it.
Bob, did you do further disassembly as I am unable to force any movement of the upper tank by exerting upward pressure near the rear (after having removed 2 screws from beneath the tender)? I have left the coupler and coupler pocket in place at the rear of the lower chassis. From the parts diagram, I do not see why this has to be removed. Did you remove the coupler? Thanks.
The couplers do not need to be removed.
The rear of the tender houses the PCB. After removing the two screws under the tender lift up the rear tank section. It sort of swivels up and exposes the PCB.
The first Medium VB Tender remains impenetrable! I had a second unopened #89903 tender stored away. Upon removal of the tender from the box, I removed the two screws at the center bottom and front bottom of the tender. and yet there is no give when I exert upward pressure at the rear of the tank. I am at a total loss! While a hammers and pry bars are tempting, they would defeat my purpose. HELP, SOMEONE, PLEASE!
Is this the tender? :-
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/Tender-a.jpg)
When I kitbashed mine I must admit I didn't take the body from the chassis but removed both the front and the rear of the of the tender, which do come out and that gave me access to the insides. I could then remove the circuit board and weight and do this: -
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/Tender-d.jpg)
End result is a shorter tender that is now coal and not oil: -
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/Tender-g.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/Great_Eastern/Tender-h.jpg)
Sorry, Roger, you've got the wrong tender. You have the Hicken style tender. I marvel at the modification you did. I have opened the Hicken style tender w/o problem but am unable to open the smaller 2 axle truck Medium Vanderbilt tenders. I seem to be unable to attached its 11KB image as the upload folder is presently full. -Gary
I opened another of my medium Vandy tenders.
Removed the two screws in the recessed holes under the tender located in the front and center of the tender.
No need to remove either of the couplers.
Lift up the rear portion of the tank. This exposes the Bachmann circuit boared.
Quote from: GARYBEAR on January 17, 2011, 05:46:58 PM
Sorry, Roger, you've got the wrong tender. You have the Hicken style tender. I marvel at the modification you did. I have opened the Hicken style tender w/o problem but am unable to open the smaller 2 axle truck Medium Vanderbilt tenders. I seem to be unable to attached its 11KB image as the upload folder is presently full. -Gary
Gary.
Upload your photos to something like "Photobucket" and then post the "image code", which Photobucket automatically loads into your browser's cut and paste function. Then all you need to do is place your cursor in your post where you want the image to appear, right click and select "Paste". Nothing could be easier. No coding to worry about, Photobucket takes care of all that for you.
Here is an image of the Bachmann 89903 HO Medium Vanderbilt Tender which I am unable to open:
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m593/garybear/bac89903.jpg)
Gary.
Do the ends come off like they do on the Hicken tender?
They're just a force fit on the Hicken
As you can see from the parts explosion of the 89903, access cannot be obtained from either end. Hasn't someone made access to the circuit board?
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m593/garybear/BMann_89903_doc.jpg)
As I have stated twice
You lift up the rear of the tank after the two screws have been removed from the bottom of the car.
Under the tank (rear) you find the circuit board.
Why I can open two of these and yours are stuck shut is beyond me.
I suggest you try prying the tank from the bottom once the two screws are out.
Must admit, from the diagram Pacific Northern has hit the nail on the head.
Perhaps you just need to gently squeeze the tank where it joins the coal bunker?
As I have previously stated
I've attempted to open not one, but two, NIB tenders after removing the two screws. I have been unable to get the rear tank to separate, or even give hint that it is capable of separation. The tank remains solid!
Does any (who has gotten one of these apart) see where I could insert a screw driver, or Xacto knife, and pry it open?
Thanks.
This discussion thread has come to a successful conclusion as indicated by the following image:
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m593/garybear/IMG_0426.jpg)
Close examination of the disassembled components reveal that the upper tank had been GLUED to the chassis where the back of the tank meets the chassis.
For those wishing to follow in my steps, I leave the following guidelines and cautions:
1) I used a hobby knife to gain the release of the stubborn upper tank section. I had initially attempted to pry under the side viewed in the picture, but release did not come until I had pried on the opposite side under the rear and middle sections of the tank. It released with a start causing me concern that the knife may have done damage to the circuit board or wiring (which is possible). Note the lip on the removed upper tank: use care to get the knife under this lip.
2) While loose, several more steps are necessary in order to free the upper tank. The upper handrails need to be separated from the front of the tender. I was able to remove one by hand, but the second one required the use of light needle nose pliers. While holding the upper tank nearly in its original position, it is necessary to back the tank away from the front section in order to free a tongue that secures that connection. I was surprised to yet be unable to remove the upper tank. It took some horsing around to remove the upper tank with an upwards movement. A view of the components and fittings explains why the upward movement is necessary. I was surprised that the leveraging motion from the rear of the tank is only applicable to step 1).
Regarding the removal of the trucks, I find that the screws to the trucks are secured by nuts that will simply spin when loosened. Under the each nut is a thin brass washer to which a wire has been soldered. This is capable of winding with the turn of the screw if not managed from the open tender. It may be necessary to remove the circuit board to manage the removal of the rear truck, but access to the front truck is not as yet apparent.
I applaud the engineering of the tender light as there are no wires to frustrate the removal of the upper tank. A plastic light straw conducts the light from the bulb that is seen aimed vertically at the rear of the open tender.
I wish more immediate success to those who subsequently attempt the disassembly of the Bachmann HO Medium Vanderbilt Tender.
-Gary
Congrats.
Wonder when and why they decided to glue the thing together?
Who can say ' with screws holding it together there i ???s absoluty no reason for glue.
also thought this post should be brought back to the fore front...
Is it glue-or is it possibly paint? A lot of this stuff is made to strict tolerances and all it would take is a hairline separation-not even-for paint to "creep" inside and dry, thus acting as an "adhesive' and bonding the two pieces together.. I had the same issues until I reasoned that possibility, and with that mindset, things then went OK.
Rich C.