I would like to know what type of track cleaning car gives you the most "bang for the buck". I see cars ranging from $25.00 to $125.00---just considering the quality of the cleaning they do (not the prototype accuracy of the model) what is the best system out there. I would like to know brand name or dry vs. wet. Any info would be helpful.
Thanks
Chris
There is no best method or track cleaning device, each guy just uses the one he likes best. Each guy would probably answer a different method each for a different reason, it just depends on your preferences. I have some walthers dry track cleaning cars, an IHC wet track cleaning caboose, a track eraser (brite-boy), and a non-fibrous cloth that I use to clean the track.
...I like the dry eraser methods and a clean cloth as well, but I wanted to know specifically about cleaner cars. I don't have one and thought I would give one a try as an additional method to keep track clean. Mainly wondered what models have worked well for folks, and what has not.
Thanks
I have the Miniatronics Elektrack and the CMX. The Elektrak does not do a very good job. The CMX is a tank car and you fill it with your choice of cleaning fluid. Personally I use Isoppropyl alcohol. It does a good job. With the tank car I usually have to clean the tracks every three days. Two weeks ago I made a track cleaning car that people have made for years. It consists of a piece of hardboard the has a rough side and a smooth side. I use two hex bolts that were quarter inch in diameter and a nut. I drilled two holes for the hex bolts and put on the nuts. Then I cut the hardboard a little wider than the track and glued it to the heads of the hex bolts. I run the boxcar all the time and I haven't had to use anything else to clean the track in over two weeks.
the CV&WS has a Brass Tanker that drips alcohol onto a pad, and drag it around, after 3-4 sweeps, the track is usually near perfect, some areas need extensive cleaning so we use track erasers.
Don't forget the value of conductive oil spread around your tracks by loco and rolling stock wheels. Just a tiny drop per rail will "seal" the surface of the rails so they stay clean and unoxidized much longer. Similarly, use metal wheels to get away from plastic wheel crud and the electrostatic charges they develop which add to dirty rail. In this case a drop of prevention might be worth hours of cure. (Sorry.)
-- D
Better than any oil is graphite. Use one of the large carpenter type pencils and rub it on the rails. The graphite is electrically conductive and does not attract dust like the oil will. And it lasts! No more cleaning rails.
...I have read about using automatic transmission fluid on the rails to enhance conductivity, but I have never heard of using graphite. Do you need to run the pencil along all or most of the rails? I would think that rolling stock wheels would not spread it as well as oil---Is this correct???
Chris
Some time ago I purchased a CMX track cleaning car for use on the Monks' Island Railway. I found that my little Bachmann GE 45 Ton locomotive cannot push the car at all (car + cleaning fluid is too heavy). I now 'push' the car around the layout via my trusty 0-5-0.
Since using the CMX car was a chore, I have gone back to my trusty Brite-Boy. A quick swipe with the Brite-Boy, followed by a wipe down with ACT-6006, keeps everything running great (I have found that I only have to clean the rails every 3 months or so).
I clean the wheels on my 45 Tonner every week with the Kadee wheel cleaner. Whenever the mood strikes I will put some ACT-6006 on a piece of paper toweling (or USED dryer sheet) and burnish the wheels...again, this is done infrequently. I should mention that trains are run on the railway just about every day.
Ray
...please excuse my ignorance, but what is ACT 6006, it sounds good.
chris
chaynes-
I'd avoid transmission fluid unless you know that it is plastic
compatible. Even a tiny amount of non-plastic compatible oil
will attack the plastic and eventually cause it to turn gummy
or fail in some other way.
-- D
Chris - Before I purchased my CMX track cleaning car, I read numerous reviews of the car's performance. In many cases, the reviewer mentioned the qualities of ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner. I ordered the car and 2-bottles of ACT-6006. The car turned out to be virtually useless for me (my motive power is too light to pull it as designed); while the ACT-6006 works extremely well.
ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner is a paraffinic hydrocarbon-based liquid that removes oxidation and 'gunk' from the railheads. It "cleans and leaves a non-slippery conductive coating for improved electrical contact that enhances the performance of DCC & Sound systems." [from the side of the bottle] The product is produced by Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants whose website is www.aerocarlubricants.com.
I [occasionally] run a Brite-Boy over the track...followed with an application of ACT-6006 (applied via a soft rag). You would be amazed at the black 'grunge' that is removed. The GE 45 Tonner's wheels are cleaned by putting some ACT-6006 on a piece of paper toweling (or USED dryer sheet) - which is then placed over an energized piece of track (I have a little cleaning station set up on my workbench). Place one truck of a diesel locomotive on the ACT-6006 dampened paper and lightly hold the other end of the locomotive. Turn up the power and allow the wheels (on the dampened paper) to spin. Do this a couple of times until no more black residue is observed. You can either burnish the same wheels on a dry piece of toweling or stop there to continue the process on the other truck.
Great product...do a Google search or go directly to the manufacturer's website.
Cheers,
Ray
Stay away from Brite Boy or any coarse abrasive. That stuff puts tiny groves in the rail that can attract dust and dirt. Od habits are hard to give up.
Plastic wheels and sintered metal wheels are also known dirt/dust collectors.
Use a fine abrasive if you really need to. I and our club use #2000 grit paper from auto paint store. Mostly alcohol with a lint free cloth.
We mostly use a couple John Allen type cleaner cars. We sometimes soak one pad in a shallow tray of alcohol and run the other car pad dry. Club layout has been around since about 1985.
Rich
Bottom line, try to keep from scratching the surface of new rail. Clean track, wheels, powered frogs, as many wheels as possible with pickups are a primary requirement for DCC layouts. Try not to develop bad habits with DCC.
Rich
For my layout I use an ignition cleaner spray, a light spray and wipe right away. I then add a few drops of Whal's clipper oil on various spots on my layout and give that a quick wiping.
I then run my MOW train consisting of three of Bachmann's track cleaning tank cars. As mentioned on this site to clean the cleaning cloth on one of the tank car cleaners just put it in your dishwasher, comes out like new.
I clean my layout every two or three months, it does not take long.
My layout has been in full operation about a year now and I have never had to do any heavy cleaning that would require more than the simple steps indicated.
Good Morning All,
This is conversation that comes up at least one time a year, and while much of the info here has been rehashed a number of times, there is still good info to listen to.
Unless I missed it, there is one thing to remember when cleaning track.
Richg mentioned how to clean rolling stock wheels. Remember, this a very important step in track cleaning. If you do not clean your rolling stock and locomotive wheels regularly, ESPECIALLY when you clean your track, you will only be doing a poor job of cleaning. Remember that most liquid cleaning agents leave a residue on the rails. That residue will clean your wheels for you, but where will the dirt and crud go? Right back onto the rails.
I have four of the Walthers' skidder type reefers plus two of the
Centerline cleaning cars. One of the CL cars is used wet and the other right behind it dry. I run the skidder cars first to get the majority of the dirt and then follow them up with the CL cars. When that is done I take a clean cloth and dry wipe my track. I do this process once a quarter and find that sufficient for my railroad.
You can build your own.
http://www.willegal.net/railroad/rr-tc.htm (http://www.willegal.net/railroad/rr-tc.htm)
(http://www.willegal.net/railroad/tc-side.jpg)
(http://www.willegal.net/railroad/tc-bare.jpg)
http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=4183&view=next&sid=b2a95a84fb3f7aeb2d229ac01843467e (http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=4183&view=next&sid=b2a95a84fb3f7aeb2d229ac01843467e)
(http://my.gn15.info/img_0286.jpg)
Quote from: chaynes on July 22, 2011, 09:45:03 AM
...I have read about using automatic transmission fluid on the rails to enhance conductivity, but I have never heard of using graphite. Do you need to run the pencil along all or most of the rails? I would think that rolling stock wheels would not spread it as well as oil---Is this correct???
Chris
Do not use transmission fluid.
The graphite pencil will be spread a bit with the wheels but you really need to rub it over most all of the rails. Once a year seems to be the norm. NO oiling required!