i need a Maryland & Pennsylvania caboose
I don't know off-hand of any current Ma & Pa caboose models. There was a brass model of the eight-wheel hack (I think from Gem) many years ago - had one once; sold it when I went On3. IIRC, one of the Ma & Pa bobbers was obtained second-hand from the Pennsy, and there was a brass model of that available also. For what otherwise would have been a pretty obscure short line, the Ma and Pa had a lot of models made. PFM brought in both the light and heavy 2-8-0's. Gem and Olympic Express did the Ten-Wheelers. Westside did both 0-6-0's. Alco had the No. 6 4-4-0. Gem also did the gas-electric, a passenger car set, and the aforementioned caboose. More recently, Overland did all three of the big 2-8-0's. These are all HO brass, incidentally. Then, of course Bachmann has the 4-4-0's and the Ten-Wheeler. The Bachmann bobber caboose can be a suitable stand-in for the prototype cars, though not exact.
i want
to go with my new Maryland & Pennsylvania 4-4-0
844-
Same answer as previously for questions like this: Check online hobby shops and ebay.
-- D
i been ever where looking all i found was toy-sh bobber cabooses
Quote from: union pacific 844 on March 01, 2013, 10:07:23 PM
i been ever where looking all i found was toy-sh bobber cabooses
844-
I found
seven different UP cabooses (not bobbers) at
three internet stores in less than
60 seconds.
You really need to learn to do a good internet search. The internet has great information and merchandise if you can find it. But you need to do this for yourself. Frankly, it isn't reasonable to put every question on this board or elsewhere expecting other people to do what you are way more than capable of doing yourself. Believe me, if you can articulate the question on here you know everything you need to know to do a quality internet search. For example, if you are in the market for an HO Union Pacific caboose, search for exactly that, as I did. You'll be overwhelmed with options. And you'll enjoy the process more when you know you can count on yourself to do these things.
-- D
i don.t need union pacific cabooses i need a Maryland & Pennsylvania caboose
ma & pa was a shortline using older equipment. bobbers may be all they had. at any rate this photo was the only ma * pa caboose i could find online during a quick search:
(http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/mpa/mpa2003dsa.jpg)
Info on the Ma&Pa's equipment: http://www.maparailroadhist.org/non-rev.htm (http://www.maparailroadhist.org/non-rev.htm)
Most of the cabooses were 4-wheel bobbers. At 77 miles long, there really wasn't any need for cabooses with bunks and other plush accommodations for when at their away-terminal. Numbers 2002 and 2007 appear to be the only 8-wheel cabooses. The 2007 is an ex-Reading car, and the 2002 is home-built car. Educated guess is that 2002 was used for end-to-end runs, while the bobbers handled local runs. The 2007 appears to have replaced the 2002 in its assignment.
All that said, the bobber would probably be the most common caboose to have behind your Ma&Pa steamer.
Maryland & Pennsylvania had some of the "truck" cabooses, as well as Bobbers, I have Bachmanns and Roundhouses. If you go for Ma & Pa Passenger, they only had the open platform 1880's coaches, nothing newer except DoodleBugs and in which case the Waltehrs one was far more accurate then Bachmanns(Bachmanns is entirely way to long) I have a Book called The Ma & Pa . Its got a bunch of great photos of Maryland & Pennsylvania engines and rolling stock. I don't live far from the old Baltimore Terminal for them and most of which still stands(The Roundhouse now used as a salt dome for road crews, and the old freight depot now part of the Baltimore Street Car Museum). And if you get the Mantua Ma & Pa box car, go ahead and use it with 1940s freight cars, they used one or two up until the 50s when they ceased operations, there is a photo of it in the book i menchoned with a B&O 40ft Box car with a diesel switcher in front. Also in the book is a list of all the Ma & Pa Equipment used. From its predacssors to the end.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/p206x206/385873_524061134284014_1169841008_n.jpg)
heres a Ma & Pa baggage car i made(i did a baggage and two coaches) #27 is long gone(it was stolen from me) but i've got #2(a custom painted 2-6-0) and 4 and 5(i want to get 6 now to replace #27)
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/541464_524067820950012_156262768_n.jpg)
There are quite a few models of M&PA cabooses available as well as most equipment the road operated. This is a very popular road to model. MR did many equipment plans in the mid 1960's when they were doing the series on building the Manchester & Paradise layout.
2002 was a wooden 4 wheel trucked cab that eventually got a sliding door on one side-Overland imported one
2003-2006 were all bobbers
2006 was an ex-Pennsy ND which was made by QC, Ambroid, NESM as wood kits and also in brass by Sunset.
reasonable models of the 2003-2005 can be made from AHM, Bachmann or Mantua plastic kits or brass models by GEM (Reading Co) Oriental (GN) and others, The GN car is quite close to the 2005.
2007 was a wooden version of the Northeastern caboose They got it from the Reading. Bethlehem Car Works has a kit and NJCB imported a brass one
Hope that helps you out.
Roger Huber
844-
I spoke too fast yesterday and I apologize. I had Union Pacific on the brain.
The Ma and Pa did have cabooses other than bobbers, but not many. Check the M&P historical society for
some excellent photos of Ma and Pa cabeese, both bobbers and larger ones. Then get an appropriate model and
redecorate. This should be a fairly easy and rewarding project.
-- D
sound like me all think about is union pacific normally all i buy in union pacific but got realy good deal on a dcc Maryland & Pennsylvania 4-4-0 so natch it yup
I think the bobber would look great with that engine. You should have done a little more homework on what was readily available in that roadname before you "natched it yup".
Like doneldon said get an appropriate model and repaint it to match what you want.
B&O fan you forgot to paste that pic it may help UP844 build one or buy one of yours ;D
Jerry, the image link is in the post, i can't figure out why it wont show. Not sure what happened, reuploaded em and now they show up.
i got the Maryland & Pennsylvania 4-4-0 $33 i could not unlettered one
i got 4 and 5, i want 6 now tho. everytime i went to get #6 the place i go to was sold out.
CORRECTION: I had 4 and 5, but now 5 has turned up missing.
Or you could repaint it Union Pacific.
would but im realy bad at painting
UP
practice,practice,practice, YOU CAN DO IT!
im tireder of ruing stuff :o so im done with painting
if you don't try to do things yourself this is not the hobby for you.
Quote from: union pacific 844 on March 03, 2013, 10:34:21 PM
im tireder of ruing stuff :o so im done with painting
Everything has a learning curve, from painting a scale model to... more intimate things. Some progress quickly up that curve, others take a bit longer, but nobody succeeds if they surrender after their first couple of missteps. You __CAN__ learn how to paint, you just need to practice and you need to use the right things to practice with. Start by learning how to paint neatly with a brush. You can use a small bit of lumber and a sampler of latex house paint from the hardware / paint store. Use water-based paint as it's easy to clean up and can be thinned with water. Thinned paint is what you want to work with. It goes on smoother, doesn't hold onto brush marks, and flows into the nooks without filling them. Once you can do a smooth finish on a block of wood, then move onto a junker piece of equipment and learn how to paint that with water-based model paints - again, thinned so as to go on smoother.
Now, how do you thin paint with water?
Easiest way - for me - is to keep a plastic cup with water in it next to me while painting. I start by dampening my brush with water, dip it into the paint, blend the water and paint by dabbing the brush on the newspaper covering my work surface. If it is too dry / thick, I put more water on the brush and blend again. Too watery, add more paint and blend again. Just right, I test it on the item I am painting.
It's a balance you learn to get a feel for. But the nice thing about water-based paints is that they are easy to wash off if you screw something up - and yes, even after nearly 30 years in the hobby, I occasionally make a mistake. It's part of the learning process. Be bold! Take chances! Make mistakes! Learn! And have fun!
Quote from: Piyer on March 04, 2013, 12:43:32 AM
Quote from: union pacific 844 on March 03, 2013, 10:34:21 PM
im tireder of ruing stuff :o so im done with painting
Everything has a learning curve, from painting a scale model to... more intimate things. Some progress quickly up that curve, others take a bit longer, but nobody succeeds if they surrender after their first couple of missteps. You __CAN__ learn how to paint, you just need to practice and you need to use the right things to practice with. Start by learning how to paint neatly with a brush. You can use a small bit of lumber and a sampler of latex house paint from the hardware / paint store. Use water-based paint as it's easy to clean up and can be thinned with water. Thinned paint is what you want to work with. It goes on smoother, doesn't hold onto brush marks, and flows into the nooks without filling them. Once you can do a smooth finish on a block of wood, then move onto a junker piece of equipment and learn how to paint that with water-based model paints - again, thinned so as to go on smoother.
Now, how do you thin paint with water?
Easiest way - for me - is to keep a plastic cup with water in it next to me while painting. I start by dampening my brush with water, dip it into the paint, blend the water and paint by dabbing the brush on the newspaper covering my work surface. If it is too dry / thick, I put more water on the brush and blend again. Too watery, add more paint and blend again. Just right, I test it on the item I am painting.
It's a balance you learn to get a feel for. But the nice thing about water-based paints is that they are easy to wash off if you screw something up - and yes, even after nearly 30 years in the hobby, I occasionally make a mistake. It's part of the learning process. Be bold! Take chances! Make mistakes! Learn! And have fun!
I useally dont dulite paint. my latest jar of paint from one company seemed too watery to start.
just take your time, for your engine, just paint over the number on the cab and lettering on the tender with Steam Power Black by Poly Scale. then put a gloss coat. then put on the decals you want(for best apperance use the same number you covered up just in the UP white and font so it matches the front number plate) let em set over set over night, overcoat again with dullcoat and thats it.