i have few older bachmann freight cars that have truck mounted couplers how do i make them body mounted couplers like the newer cars?
http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/Rolling%20Stock/Toy%20to%20Model%20Conversions.pdf (http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/Rolling%20Stock/Toy%20to%20Model%20Conversions.pdf)
The info you want starts on about page four, but you should read the whole document anyways. Just about everything you need to know is there.
Sid
To Wounded Bear : Thank You for the posting , I put the info into my favorites list , and I did read the entire article . John II.
Yes indeed this site is a good one. I came across it myself a couple of years ago. There is another one as well that instructs on how to melt that size nut into the bolster as opposed to using glue off the bat, by using a small soldering pencil. I did not save it bc I have used the method enough times to remember how to do it ( I still have a pretty good memory). It can be easily found by typing in a search about converting "Talgo" style trucks or couplers on GOOGLE.
I add that sometimes I have found the 2-56 machine screw continues to work its way loose. What I do then is replace the 2-56 machine screw with a self taping coarse threaded screw and screw into the nut. So far that has worked on those occasions the 2-56 machine screw keeps working loose.
this would be a good project to get your feet wet so to speak. you can do the first car in an afternoon. the trucks don't necessarily have to be replaced, just trim off the coupler boxes. you can drill the hole to mount the coupler box through the car floor, and use a 2-56 screw and nut to secure the coupler box to the car floor.
since you are converting an older, chaep car, it's no major loss if you don;t get it right the first time. you'll soon learn how to do it right.
Here we go:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1SFpYlX-33qDCE4C_HZC1tq98ZhVBhde5kuYXNIJvcLM/edit?hl=en&pli=1
If this does not work, try typing: "Restoring HO rolling stock with new trucks and couplers" in GOOGLE.
It bothered me that I talked about, but did not provide this link before.
-jb
Quote from: WoundedBear on March 06, 2013, 06:52:48 PM
http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/Rolling%20Stock/Toy%20to%20Model%20Conversions.pdf (http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/Rolling%20Stock/Toy%20to%20Model%20Conversions.pdf)
The info you want starts on about page four, but you should read the whole document anyways. Just about everything you need to know is there.
Sid
Most will probably never look at this thread but for the few here, I like to play around with a URL to see what else is here.
Original link.
http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/Rolling%20Stock/Toy%20to%20Model%20Conversions.pdf
Next.
http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/Modeling/
Next. Al kinds of good info.
http://ezbizwebsite.com/SupplementalInfo/
Finally.
http://ezbizwebsite.com/
Have fun.
Rich
Now Rich, you would really be my hero, if you could tell me why I sometimes get some of the 2-56 machine screws that keep coming loose from the nut.
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 09, 2013, 04:33:22 PM
Now Rich, you would really be my hero, if you could tell me why I sometimes get some of the 2-56 machine screws that keep coming loose from the nut.
A very thin film of removable blue Loctite on the threads. I was a machine mechanic for many years and used the red and blue, a lot. Red is permanent. I picked up many tricks over the years that can be used in model railroading.
Again, a little. You do not want any on a swivel surface. I put a drop on a smooth surface and apply a thin film using a toothpick.
Others will have a solution.
Rich
Blue it is then. Thank you Rich.
Just in case you did not know, Loctite is called a threadlocker which works by expanding as it dries. A search will give you more technical details. A little on two or three threads for a 2-56 will be plenty.
I ride a bicycle a lot in good weather and a couple bolts need threadlocker.
Rich
jb-
Just so you don't worry -- it's easy to break the Loctite bond when you need to. Just turn your
screwdriver a little harder or add a touch of heat. With the heat, a little puff of smoke will appear,
smelling of singed eyerows.
-- D
Thanks for the idea Rich and the info Doc.
Rich, I was wondering how I leave enough room to get it on the threads of the bolt without getting the Loctite on the top of the truck. Sounds like if I screw down as far as I can go and still get a toothpick in there I can apply the Loctite then screw down a little bit more and it will work.
And yes, I recall you posting before how you ride the bike trail the "valley". How did you like the Big E train show? My son and I found it mind blowing.
Doc, it sounds like I can also use this stuff for when one of my Kadee coupler boxes starts moving around on the screw that I have used to hold it to the metal frame of a loco. Thanks for the idea.
cool links but the coupler box are screwed in if i do that on the caboose it will come up tho the walk way on cabooses what can i do there?
Quote from: union pacific 844 on March 10, 2013, 11:52:54 PM
cool links but the coupler box are screwed in if i do that on the caboose it will come up tho the walk way on cabooses what can i do there?
844-
You are correct; that presents a problem. This is a situation which will require you to glue the draft gear (coupler box) to the underside of the caboose floor. Try to use the draft gear covers which snap onto the draft gear boxes so you don't have to glue the covers on. Or perhaps you can use a short screw which goes in no farther than the thickness of the draft gear. It's not like there is strain on the draft gear covers.
-- D
short screws are the way to go. and if the end of the screw does stick up a little, paint it black with a sharpie.
844-
If you have an electrician's pliers of the kind which crimps electrical connectors you can probably find a series of threaded holes in it. You can match your screws to the holes and then use the tool to cut the screws to the needed length without messing up the threads. For my money (not a lot of it) the tool would be worth owning even if I never used it for crimping connectors or stripping wire. (Actually, the wire strippers on these are okay but not great. The kind which grabs the wire and pops the insulation is better, particularly with stranded wire.)
-- D