How do I find out what the whether the code of the track I bought is 83 or 100? I think I mixed two different code by mistake. I think some of my engines are bottoming out.
AFIK, all the Bachmann track (certainly the EZTrack) is code 100. Not sure what you mean by "bottoming out", though. Even the old Rivarossi trains with the pizza-cutter flanges should operate OK on code 83 track. There will be a bit of a bump when you go from 83 to 100 if that's what has happened.
OB-
If by "bottoming out" you mean that your wheel flanges are contacting your ties or roadbed, you must have some huge pizza pan style wheels. If that is the case (I'm doubting it as way too unlikely) you need to replace your wheel sets. If you mean that the bottom of the loco itself is making contact with something, almost certainly at turnouts and/or crossings, you have a different problem all together. The symptoms might appear to be the same -- derailments or possibly shorting -- but the causes are completely different. In that case you either have some extraneous junk on your track which you can easily remove after an inspection (I seriously doubt that this is your issue because you would have taken care of it already) or something on a loco which is too low. That may very well be the cover on the drive wheel axle's gear. It's a curved piece of metal or plastic which contains the gear and keeps its lube from getting all over or getting dirty. If that's the problem, you need to either file off the excess material (preferred) or remove the cover all together. If you take the cover off, remove all excess grease and be very watchful that the remaining grease doesn't slowly migrate away so there is no lubrication or become so contaminated with dirt and gritty bits that the gears are damaged. That means regular inspections and cleaning/relubricating when needed.
-- D
obrien135 : the easiest way to determine Code size is to to measure the height of the track rail . Code 83 track measures .083" and code 100 measures .100" use either a micrometer or a caliper . John2.
OB-
Since rails come in only a few sizes, you should be able to measure the height with a common ruler.
The only rail sizes you would ever use with HO are Codes 40, 55, 70, 83 and 100.
-- D
In response to Doneldon: I think the problem is the cover of the drive wheel axle's gear. If I grind some of the metal off, I guess there's no way of knowing whethr I can take enough off without puncturing through and still stop the cover of the drive wheel axle' gear from making contact with the rails on the turnouts. If expose bare metal the short would be worse and wouldcause more damage to the voltage supply. I wonder if I should make do with it as is instead. What are your opinions?
George
Here are some links to some videos that show what is happening. It is dark in the basement so hopefully you can see alright:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r0oz0biIwY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCPy6D2Ul1o
I meant to mention that the only engines that have this problem are the two that have those low hanging gear covers. I don't presently have the right kind of battery for my photo camera. Hopefully the videos will help, I would have to take the turnouts out of the track assembly to perform the straight edge test, which I would rather not do since it is difficult to reach into that space to reassemble it correctly. Maybe in the future I will try that.
George
George-
It was difficult to see much in the videos but I could certainly hear that the train slowed down significantly when it was at the right-rear of the loop. A dragging gear cover can certainly explain that. You can file down the gear cover or take it off all together. You will lose some protection for the gear if you take it away but that's not the end of the world. Many people do find that the clearance is so close that filing is enough.
I neglected to mention before that having different size rails shouldn't be the cause of this although I suppose that the gear cover could be enough lower on Code 83 rail (.083") that it makes contact with the ties. Clearance to the railheads and shorting shouldn't make any difference because everything is relative to the top of the rail so the gear cover should clear both size rails if it clears one.
However, rail sizes can be a problem depending on how they are connected. If they connect in such a way that there is a bump (pull your fingernail along the top of the rails across the rail joints) you need to do some adjustment. For Codes 83 to 100 the easiest fix is to slide the rail joiner onto the Code 100 rail but solder it to the bottom of the Code 83 rail. There are special rail joiners but they are pretty hard to locate so the soldering is the usual solution. Whether you have Code 83, Code 100 (I think all B'mann track is Code 100.) or a mix doesn't matter. Your goal should be NO track bumps. Even two adjacent pieces of rail of the same size can create a bump if one rail is in the rail joiner and the other is on top of it. The finger nail test will identify this situation.
-- D
George, are these locos you are having this problem, Bachmann steamers? If so, search the Topics here, as this subject was recently covered a few times, along with the fix. There is even pictures to help.
jbrock, no they are diesels. But grinding the gear cover helped on the first one.
Hmmm, interesting OB.
Makes?
Models?
And do they "bottom out" when running over the rerailers?
One is a Bachmann and the other is a Life-Like. I don't know how to identify the model numbers. I bought them 2nd hand. It did have trouble getting over the rerailers, also. It would derail or slow down.
Hello George. For models, I mean to ask if you know if they are GP's, F's or what have you. If you look at pictures on line you can get a good idea of what model you have. For example, there are GP30s, GP40s, F2s, F3s, F7s so on and so forth.
Have the ability to post any pictures?
So if I understand you right, the locos act up on all sections of your track? Not just traveling over one section?
Yes, that's correct sir. I will try to post some pictures and identify the model numbers today
George, as was pointed out, the vids that you posted earlier are difficult to see bc they're dark. I did take a look at other vids you have posted on You Tube. Did you ask your question about the track code bc you are using grey roadbed EZ Track with black roadbed EZ Track? Because I see that in your vids. The code (rail height) is the same for both, so no worries there. And as long as you have them connected properly, as Doneldon reminded, there should be no problems from the track. The only difference between the two is grey is nickel silver rails and the black is steel rails.
Can you tell by looking at the undersides of the problematic locos, if there is any thing off kilter or out of alignment? With regard to the Life Like, if it is not a Proto 2000, and you can't figure out what is wrong with it, and it is "old" it may be time for a replacement. If it is a Proto 2000, we can talk more about what is going on with it.
I think bc the locos have problems on various sections of your track, that the locos are the problem not the track (this assumes you have the track fitted together properly and have not missed any spots with the rails sliding into the rail joiners and not resting on top of them).
I am having trouble with this computer. It's my wife's and it doesn't work well. I can hardly post. Mine is down. I can't post for a while.
The pictures were too big to upload and I don't have a converter on this computer. MIne died. THis one works so poorly that it takes about 5 tries aou 15 minutes to post one message likethis. I will hve to postpone any frther posting. You are welcome to post more usefull info though if you all want, Thank you
George
George,
Find some high school whiz kid to clean out the viruses and other malware on your wife's computer.
It can even be done remotely.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik