Hi , am about to start my first DCC layout , will purchase a basic E-Z command unit and engine , and a track starter pack.
I notice that on the back of the controller , there is only one jacking point for power to the track via the rerailer , if I was to use several rerailers , can these also be hooked up to the basic controller or to each other in series??
I am a total novice to all this , so come on guys , would love some serious help here..
Read up on DCC wiring here. (http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm)
Thank you
Here is another good site, Check the DCC Clinics link.
https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home (https://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home)
Quote from: Spencer on February 14, 2014, 05:28:21 PM
Hi , am about to start my first DCC layout , will purchase a basic E-Z command unit and engine , and a track starter pack.
I notice that on the back of the controller , there is only one jacking point for power to the track via the rerailer , if I was to use several rerailers , can these also be hooked up to the basic controller or to each other in series??
I am a total novice to all this , so come on guys , would love some serious help here..
Spencer,
You can use rerailers to power your track but it would be more expensive than just adding a terminal rail joiner such as these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-842-Terminal-Rail-Joiners-1-pair-for-HO-Scale-Code-100-Rails-/171205085187?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item27dc9e4803
Make sure you have the polarity correct are there will be a short and your EZ Commands light will blink rapidly. If that happens swap the joiners on the rail.
I make my own joiners by soldering my wire straight to any code 100 joiner or to the rails. Very easy to do as long as you know how to solder.
If you go the rerailer route you will need to splice the ends of the power cord together making sure polarity is correct.
Jerry
Jerry - a follow up question to your post.
I have a couple of extra rerailers and power wires and was going to go the splicing route on my layout.
My question is about polarity - there seems to be no visible difference between the wires, how do I know if I have the polarity correct before I make the connection?
show, is this the red wire that has the black harness at one end that plugs into the re-railer and has forks or bear wires for each of the 2 ends, at the other end that connects to the power source? If so, does one of the wires have an "edge" to it, like lamp cord does? If no, say so and come back as I have other ideas, but if your answer is yes, that is the simplest way to identify 1 side of the wire harness.
Quote from: show33 on February 15, 2014, 08:52:06 PM
Jerry - a follow up question to your post.
I have a couple of extra rerailers and power wires and was going to go the splicing route on my layout.
My question is about polarity - there seems to be no visible difference between the wires, how do I know if I have the polarity correct before I make the connection?
I always use my meter for checking polarity. I never rely on the wire markings.
Once the red wire is plugged in to the rerailer, check with a meter. from there match the polarity I usually mark the positive one with a colored paint pen.
In case you don't understand, when you touch the probes to the wire or the rails the meter will show a positive reading or negative reading. Match that with the other wire or track rails.
Jerry
P.S.
I found another link to a muti-meter tutorial if anyone is interested...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU
Thanks Jerry and jbrock - Yes, it's the regular red wire...didn't notice the difference in the wires, will have to look more closely...but good advice from Jerry, probably just as easy to double check with meter.
what do you recommend for distance between feeders? Using the stock EZ command for power.
show33
Quotewhat do you recommend for distance between feeders? Using the stock EZ command for power.
What size is your layout? My layout is 30x14 and I try to keep them around 6ft.. Have not had any power issues.
Jerry
Quote from: show33 on February 15, 2014, 10:34:20 PM
what do you recommend for distance between feeders? Using the stock EZ command for power.
I use flex track and I solder feeders to every single section of flex track be it 36 inches long or three inches long. I also solder feeders to the switches as well. I learnt that you can never, ever, rely on rail joiners.
Cheers
Roger.
You are welcome show.
Jerry, that would have been in my next posted response, had show responded to me before you had the opportunity to respond. That is why I wrote what I wrote in the way I wrote it in my previous post. I like to try simple first, then go from there. I don't know or assume off the hop, everyone's resources or skill level.
We did this recently, recall?
PS-if there is a way to identify the wires as being different from each other, it does not need to be any more complicated than that.
Jim,
QuotePS-if there is a way to identify the wires as being different from each other, it does not need to be any more complicated than that.
That depends if the wires are correct on each end of the rerailer. If one plug is turned then there will be a SHORT :-*.
That is why a meter should be first on the list to make sure everything is done once and there is no guess work.
Jerry
On my layout I ran both red & black wire.... " not sure of the gauge " through my hole layout " drilled small holes in my roadbed & hooked up leads to the rail's to my 2 main wire leads underneath my layout.. I spaced them out about every 2 - 2 1/2 feet apart from each other.. in all I believe I have between 15-18 leads hooked up & my DCC equipped Loco's have no issues & I get no loss of power anywhere throughout my hole layout my headlight's horn sounds bell sounds are all nice & crisp... I do not like to use nor trust re rails for a power source I mean there OK for a under the Tree Layout @ Christmas time but not if your doing a layout... I have found most DCC systems run well on a layout supplying a constant amount of AMP's to the Loco's I do believe most DCC decoders LIKE about 3 AMPS of constant power supplied to them... One of the reason's I wired my hole layout.. 1 of my fellow Train buddy's said I went a little overboard with the amount of leads I used but I wanted to make certain my Loco's would run smoothly...
tb
Quote. I do not like to use nor trust re rails for a power source
I would trust a powered rerailer before I would trust powered terminal rail joiner.
By the way what you describe on your layout is basically how I have mine which to me is not OVERKILL just assurance ::).
Now get out the way I am picking on JB ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D.
Jerry
If I am not mistaken, it should be easy to follow the wire (if one can be identified from the other) all the way from the plug at the re-railer, to where it hooks into the controller. Just stay consistent, ie: right contact on rerailer with right contact on controller. If all someone is looking to do is tap from one wire to connect to a different section of track, you just need to have consistency with how you are doing it.
U.S.A. is winning 5-0 over Slovakia. (Slovenia, not Slovakia-my bad. The Slovenians upset the Slovakians the other day)
I know you are NOT picking on me :D
I agree with Roger's and your point about not trusting joiners-I have come to learn this as well.
Brian, I would also say you were a little excessive as well, but all that matters is that it works for you and you felt the effort paid off.
On my still under construction 10 x 30 foot GER I use DCC and have run a pair of 18 AWG feeders around the whole layout. Red always connects to the Rear rail and Yellow to the front rail. I chose red for that reason, the
yellow is just what I picked up.
So as to limit the amount of crawling under the layout time, every 24" or so I drop 18 AWG "pig tails" that are around 12" long and they just hang down ready for attaching the track feeders to. Not all of these pig tails get used but they are there "in case". I attach the pig tails using Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs)or what model railroaders have come to call "Suitcase Connectors", although you will get a blank stare from the clerk at the electrical store if you use that term.
I then attach my 18 AWG feeders to the pig tails using wire nuts. The feeders are also colour coded red and yellow.
One thing I should clarify is my "feeders to every single section of flex track be it 36 inches long or three inches long" comment. My normal practice is to solder rail joiners on shorter lengths of rail but none the less, if I have a situation where I do have unsoldered rail joiners on a short length of track, it get feeders attached.
Jerry-
Like you, I think the term/rerail is a better connection to the track, but not so much than I'd pay the exorbitant cost of the factory job. I mostly use either rail joiners or soldered feeders. As for the number of feeders, you always have too many until one fails.
-- D
Don,
I agree about the cost of the rerailer and I did not bring up cost as show33 stated he already had them, so why not put them to use.
I two terminal rerailers because I have them and the rest are like you said, My own feeders that I make up myself.
A pack of rail joiners and a roll of wire (scrap laying around) you can afford to overkill the layout with feeders ;).
Jerry