Do HO 82506 4-8-2 's supposed to have a light on the back of the tender ?
To answer your question. maybe.
Hint.
When asking questions about a Bachmann or any other manufacturer's model it's best to give the road name and not the model number.
"HO 82506" means little to most of us but something like "Baltimore & Ohio 4-8-2" is much more usuful.
ta152h0,
No, the #82506 USRA Heavy Mountain does not a backup light on the tender.
This loco is a main line locomotive, on many railroads, locos used for long hauls on the main line did not have backup lights.
Sheldon
Would be helpful, or just cool, though.
This goes back to the train/locomotive issue.
Gene
there is nothing long haul in my layout. I fall under the category of " playing with trains ' as opposed to my friends at the club, who fall under the category " serious railroaders with timetables ". I have to have a rear light so I am going to need small tubing, lamp, resistor, black paint and build one.
sounds like a fun project.
I went to the Santa Fe station in Okla. City one night in the early 50s. They backed a 4-8-2 down from the service area. They had a portable headlight. After they coupled onto the train they unpluged the light and removed it. Most of Santa Fe's 4-8-2 were used only for passenger service. The reason was that they didn't have a place for the head breakmen. Union rule, if no place to sit I don't work. Who wants to stand up all day.
I suppose I could go on record as saying why don't other modellers think like me; but besides being hypocritical, it would be a self-cancelling proposition.
I have installed tender lights for running backwards on my road engines, and frankly don't give a hoot what the scale-rule richards and the prototype petes have to say. It is my money, my railroad, my operating challenge, so all else doesn't make diddly.
My theory of operations governs what I need for power, effeciency, and ease of operation; not what happens on Darnaby's, Koester's, the NYC, or anyone else's pike! Being a heavy-duty bridge-type road, the PT&H hauls a lot of tonnage; both raw material, and finished goods, as well as foods, between several different roads at either end.
Rich
Rich,
I agree completely, I was simply pointing out why Bachmann did not include one on the model. If you want one on there its fine, many roads did have rear headlights on all power.
A few diodes and resisters, an LED and a headlight and and away you go.
Sheldon
Quote from: Atlantic Central on October 12, 2007, 01:51:28 PM
Rich,
I agree completely, I was simply pointing out why Bachmann did not include one on the model. If you want one on there its fine, many roads did have rear headlights on all power.
A few diodes and resisters, an LED and a headlight and and away you go.
Sheldon
,
Exactly Sheldon.
I think both CNR and CPR had back-up lights, smaller than headlights with about a 6 inch diameter lens, on all steam locos. This permitted back up moves at night in yards and when backing down to a passenger station.
Sheldon and Roger;
Thanks for clearing. I have found a really neat way to take advantage of the yellow glow diodes offered by Tony's, et al, and Cal-Scale headlights.
It is a bit hairy, but drilling the light out does work, and installing the diode into it is a good fit. I have used really small heat-shrink (ideal electrical) offers it in a small roll, and have usually just done one leg on a plastic body; on brass, both have to be done, for obvious reasons.
The tender offers a dandy place to hide electricals, and the decoder will obviously handle the light in the reverse aspect of operation. Mine really look good-not so much the "craftsmanship", but just their being there.
The brass headlights really look good in place on the tender.
RIch
verification time- reverse light is pin 2 NMRA connector ) yellow wire, blue wire return ?
verification time- reverse light is pin 2 NMRA connector ) yellow wire, blue wire return ?
Blue wire is common, sir. Check your schematic.
A thought for what it is worth: I have found that eliminating altogether the connector that comes with the locomotives and just wiring the decoders straight works better. Less things to go wrong.
Rich
Rich