Is is OK to run an Athearn locomotive on a DCC Bachmann setup? If so, how do I know if an Athearn locomotive is DCC equipped?
Quote from: Elnovato on September 02, 2014, 02:18:21 PM
Is is OK to run an Athearn locomotive on a DCC Bachmann setup? If so, how do I know if an Athearn locomotive is DCC equipped?
Yes, you can run any HO scale DCC loco on any DCC system. DCC is an international standard.
Is the Athearn loco equipped for DCC? Ready the label on the box. :)
Failing that, remove the body and see if it as a DCC decoder installed.
Failing that, put the loco on your DCC layout and listen. If the motor "sings" with a high pitched hum, it's probably not DCC but try addressing it and see what happens.
I haven't purchased an Athearn DCC equipped engines so I don't know if the loco frame is marked "DCC" or not.
Someone else will help you there.
Cheers
Roger T.
Any brand will run on your track. As far as if your Athearn is DCC equipped, if you bought new it would state that on the box. If used you could pull the shell off and see if it has a decoder in it.
If you have already put it on your track and heard a buzzing sound and no movements it's probably dc. Bachmann EZ Command will run a dc loco on function 10, but I strongly do not recommend doing so, long periods of running or idling on the track can cause damage to the motor.
You seem to be a newcomer so might I suggest picking up a book on DCC or search the internet by googling DCC. There is a lot to be learned. Don't think this is an attempt for you to not ask questions for that is what this board is for. Just found a lot of my questions were answered by reading up in my spare time. Although it will not make us master DCC, it will give us a better understanding.
Jerry
Roger beat me by 12 seconds. Boy he has fast fingers ;D.
Oh my I told him to google, sorry JB ;D.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 02, 2014, 02:57:29 PM
Roger beat me by 12 seconds. Boy he has fast fingers ;D.
Oh my I told him to google, sorry JB ;D.
But Google IS your friend. Most questions can be answered using Google but some people like others to do the legwork for them.
Not that Elnovato did that here.
Cheers
Roger T.
Thanks again! I bought two Athearn cars and soon after, one of my Bachmann DCC locomotives (the one I was using to haul those cars) stopped moving. Jerry suggested to reset the system, something I will try later tonight. Also, the Athearn couplers sit a bit too high relative to the Bachmann's, and slight level changes on the track lead to unintended separation from the locomotive (I was unable to find anything on this through google). Based on your kind help, the athearn cars/Bachmann locomotive mix fiasco described appears to be a bad coincidence). I was debating whether to buy an athearn dcc locomotive, but on the retail websites it is hard to tell wether they are dcc on board or just dcc ready (or plain dc). Is it usual for the engines to be in need of a "reboot"
You probably know by now that El Novato = The Rookie in Spanish :)
Get a coupler height gauge and check all your locos and rolling stock.
Read ALL the advertising for a loco. You will see the details. If no mention of DCC anywhere then assume DC only.
Look at the Online Bachmann catalogue as a reference.
DCC Ready or DCC onboard. Maybe DCC with sound. Some are sound locos. Some are not. Have seen a number of times in different forums, some saw DCC onboard and assumed sound also. Some did not have sound.
One brand I will not mention here has DCC with sound but the motor and lights are for DC layout.
There are many variables in DCC.
Too much mention of other brands here is frowned upon.
Rich
I see. Just to wrap it up. If I get a Bachmann with DCC and sound, do I need anything "extra" or it works on my Bachmann EZ Command setup out of the box?
Quote from: Elnovato on September 02, 2014, 05:03:41 PM
I see. Just to wrap it up. If I get a Bachmann with DCC and sound, do I need anything "extra" or it works on my Bachmann EZ Command setup out of the box?
I use NCE for my DCC but any DCC throttle with work will any DCC engine. As I mentioned previously, DCC has international standards.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quick Add on, for the sound, if you have the regular ez command as opposed to the Dynamis, you will not be able to make use of all the features and CV values since it's a very basic system however you will have the fist 10 functions and baisc sound.
Also, the low amperage output of the basic unit w/o booster will not support more than two sound locomotives at any given time so mute extras when not in use.
QuoteAlso, the low amperage output of the basic unit w/o booster will not support more than two sound locomotives at any given time so mute extras when not in use.
I think this is a myth that Myth Busters should investigate as I have run 3 sometimes 4 sound loco's on the EZ Command on a mid size layout.
Yes you will have limited functions but that's OK unless your into listening to coupler clash and other sounds most of us do not need. You will have the engine,bell, horn or whistle,lights and sometimes more depending on manufacturer. One of my other brand loco's I can even operate crew talk and coupler clash with the EZ. Don't use it much as it does get annoying. Sound Value to me was a good choice by manufacturers to bring sound to us at a cost that most modelers can afford.
QuoteIs it usual for the engines to be in need of a "reboot"
Not usually unless a glitch occurs with the decoder or you want to reset everything back to factory settings.
Jerry
5th Ave El, so you bought Athearn rolling stock, no locos yet, correct? Either rolling stock or loco, both are more than ok to use as they are great value for what you pay for. If you would like some more loco suggestions, don't be bashful, just PM me and I will glad to give you some. Pick up a coupler height gauge as suggested. Kadee brand. I like the plastic one over the metal version as I don't have to worry about putting it on the track with the power on and causing a short. You don't have to go out and buy a new loco just to work with couplers; the couplers themselves can be adjusted for in numerous ways and using the gauge, you can make them all uniform. Also, as mentioned above, use GOOGLE often for your research first and foremost and when it doubt, don't be shy about firing off a question. Good luck and don't forget to keep us informed of your progress.
Thank you all for this helpful information!
Jerry, Although I only have one DCC sound Locomotive, My ez command couldn't run 4 Locomotives w/dcc, slowing down when running 3 (depending on which three) Its a 1 Amp system IIRC and Sound decoders Draw a considerable amount when running (motors, lights, speaker)
While your experience may have been different, its best to watch out as overloading can be bad. I've since switched over to NCE but The Ez command basic's specialty was its simplicity and ease of use, not its power.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 02, 2014, 06:40:35 PM
QuoteAlso, the low amperage output of the basic unit w/o booster will not support more than two sound locomotives at any given time so mute extras when not in use.
I think this is a myth that Myth Busters should investigate as I have run 3 sometimes 4 sound loco's on the EZ Command on a mid size layout.
Jerry-
You may be pressing your luck or perhaps you have recently released locos with more than ordinary efficiency. Or maybe
your system is putting out a bit more power than spec. But I suggest three non-sound locos or two sound locos a the
practical limit for EZCommand.
-- D
Big D,
You are probably right about pushing my luck ;D. My comment about Myth Busters was actually supposed to be taken jokingly.
Although I have run that many on the EZ Command, I can say I did not do it all the time. Sometimes I forget how many live loco's I have on the track.
Anyone who can keep up with that many loco's running is gifted. I have trouble keeping up with 2 ;D.
Since I have added the 5 amp booster, I still don't run that many but I do have a habit of leaving some parked without muting or turning power off to the siding.
Bringing that up, I have to say that the only drawback to the Sound Value loco's is not having the start up feature as most do complain about causing a drain in power unless removed from the track or parked on a switched siding.
Irbricksceo,
I realize the EZ Command is a low amperage system and I am stretching it a bit when I do it but I did not have any signs of power loss when I did it.
I will say or I should have said, it is not recommended to run that many but has been done luckily without any devastating consequences.
Jerry
So it seems that with EZ Command 3 locos tops. any recommendations for a good value starter power booster (to connect switchers too)?
I looked up the coupler height gauge (Kadee) and they have one that comes with a No 5 coupler and #58 scale coupler, and another insulated multi purpose with the 148 whisker coupler and the 158 scale whisker coupler.... Which one should I get?!?!
???
Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 03, 2014, 08:57:33 AM
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Anyone who can keep up with that many loco's running is gifted. I have trouble keeping up with 2
Jerry
What, you mean you don't have 10 arms and eyes on the back of your head?
Elnovato, There is a 5 amp booster available from bachmann, that is more than enough to power a layout of small to mid size given the EZ command's loco limit and the whole "I can't control that many anyway". Jerry is right in that dead Sidings are a good way to further reduce power draw, and Is something I've been planning to add in when I finalize my trackwork (I know what the layout will look like, College took all my money is all)
On sound value, you will have all the functions (there are only 8 I believe including mute) However what you will not have is CV programming, a feature the EZ command lacks. This means no reassigning buttons, changing chuffrates/volume, and no whistle selections. I hear that there are "Program only" Systems around and although I don't possess any as my NCE unit does it for me, I'd look into them If you want to get into CV adjusting, something I've found to be very useful in fine tuning decoders plus reseting when somethign goes wrong.
I have the NCE DCC system that can, I gather, call back up to five or maybe more locos?
I don't know exactly how many as I rarely use the call back function. Although my railroad has through staging, in other words, it's a big 10 x 30 foot loop, for now, I don't run trains that way and only ever have one "locomotive" running at a time, it's prototypical and as many of you know, I'm a prototype freak. :)
Remember, "locomotive" in the real world also means a "consist" so my "locomotive" can be three diesels pulling a 20 car train, though two diesels in the normal freight train consist.
Yes, I must admit, that if I'm working at my work bench, it's not unknown for a train to be orbiting the room.
However, I have a friend who has a large, 20 x 50 foot, single track, point to point (no loop, just return loops at each end) railroad in his basement that is single track and he can sometimes have three trains running at once, in opposite directions. He has no automation and how he does it is beyond me. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
What about the coupler height gauge?
El,
That is the gauge you want. It comes with instructions on how to use it. Most use #5 or I believe #158 or 148 which is the same as the #5 just has whiskers. Somehow I prefer the #5's as the whiskers are very thin compared to the #5 gearbox spring.
I mounted mine on a separate piece of track long enough for my longest car and pull it out anytime I have a problem with derails.
QuoteWhat, you mean you don't have 10 arms and eyes on the back of your head?
I think every modeler would love to have these qualities. Sure would be easier when I am under the table wiring.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 03, 2014, 02:30:10 PM
I mounted mine on a separate piece of track long enough for my longest car and pull it out anytime I have a problem with derails.
Jerry.
I have the same thing, only mine is a 34 inch piece of flex fixed to a three inch wide piece of ply with two 2 x 4 blocks screwed to the bottom as feet with a insulated coupler coupler height gauge on both ends. This is also my programming track so also have the required NCE throttle and computer interface input/outputs attachments (For JMRI) fixed to the side. Hence the 2 x 4 blocks as feet underneath for clearance. It's a really handy tool.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: Elnovato on September 03, 2014, 10:36:03 AM
I looked up the coupler height gauge (Kadee) and they have one that comes with a No 5 coupler and #58 scale coupler, and another insulated multi purpose with the 148 whisker coupler and the 158 scale whisker coupler.... Which one should I get?!?!
???
Elno-
It doesn't matter, at least very much. The #5 coupler is sort of the all-purpose Kadee coupler because it can easily fit or be fitted to just about anything. However, the #5 is larger than scale size which some modelers find objectionable. The other three couplers are "scale," meaning they are closer to the size the couplers would be if they were built to exact scale. They all work with one another although I think perhaps the scale couplers might play together better than they play with the over-size couplers, and
vice-versa. I have so many cars and locos with the larger Kadees that I stick with those. If I were starting in the hobby today I suppose I'd go wit the scale couplers.
The other considerations in coupler selection are the range of different Kadees for special applications and how well the Kadees work with other brands of couplers. The regular Kadees offer a wider variety of special couplers for specific purposes than do the scale Kadees. That means you can save a lot of work by using a special Kadee instead of modifying your rolling stock for a #5. It's not like that will come up daily but when it does, a special Kadee can be very welcome.
In regards to compatibility with other manufacturers' couplers (like Henry, Bachmann,
etc.) I have to extrapolate a little. Model Railroader studied knuckle coupler compatibility a few years ago. If I recall correctly, they used the regular Kadees, not the scale ones. MR found that all brands of couplers worked pretty well together though the best performance was when couplers from the same manufacturer were used. The only place they found difficulties was when trying to connect different makes of couplers on curved track. The thing is that, to my recollection, they didn't test the scale Kadees with the other brands. If I am correct, that means that their general finding that most couplers work pretty well together overall can't be generalized to include how well
scale Kadees work with other makers' couplers.
The bottom line is that the Kadee coupler gauge you choose probably doesn't matter very much. By a small margin, select the #5 if you expect to mainly use the larger Kadees and one of the others if you think you'll be using the scale ones. You can use any of the Kadee gauges to position other brands of couplers so that's not an issue.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on September 03, 2014, 05:01:49 PM
It doesn't matter, at least very much. The #5 coupler is sort of the all-purpose Kadee coupler because it can easily fit or be fitted to just about anything. However, the #5 is larger than scale size which some modelers find objectionable. The other three couplers are "scale," meaning they are closer to the size the couplers would be if they were built to exact scale. They all work with one another although I think perhaps the scale couplers might play together better than they play with the over-size couplers, and vice-versa. I have so many cars and locos with the larger Kadees that I stick with those. If I were starting in the hobby today I suppose I'd go wit the scale couplers.
The #148 coupler is not scale, it is actually the same size as a #5 except it has built in centering springs to replace the gold drop in piece used in the draft gear box. The other two are scale head like you said.
ACY-
You are absolutely correct. I meant to list the #5 and #148 together. Maybe I should fact check more thoroughly.
-- D
In case you were wondering, I bought extra Bachmann couplers (overshank/medium) and the random uncoupling of the Bachmann F7 loco with the other brand that starts with Ath passenger cars was resolved.