I recently purchased a used Spectrum F40PH (older Version). When I checked the front coupler height, I found it to low and it would catch on the ties when run forward. I switched out the Kadee coupler for an EZ mate off set shank coupler. The height was better but when run forward the centering pin still caught the ties. after a closer look, I found that the coupler pocket sagging at a downward angle. Any thoughts on how to solve this problem?
The older F40PH used a coupler mounting with a fairly narrow 'snap on' cover that doesn't offer much support to the coupler, so they tend to sag. That's why the newer version uses a screw mounted coupler box. You can use a pair of needle nose pliars to bend the trip pin up, so it doesn't catch on ties or switches. Or you can just clip the wire off just below the coupler.
I don't have the F40PH, but another option might be to body mound a coupler box, rather that use the snap-in gizmo. Some drilling, tapping, and shimming to get the height right would be involved.
Len
while I don't have an f40ph handy (my son's is at his place) to look at, I seem to recall the narrow ciip could be replaced by a screw, with the coupler pad drilled out and tapped. this would provide a much sturdier mounting for the coupler.
jw - That might work, but there are two 'clip on' parts. The mount that clips into the chassis, and the "cover" that clips on to the mounting. Part of the problem is the clip in mount can move around, changing the angle of the coupler, on top of the lack of support from the cover clip. So even replacing the clip with a screw may not totally solve the problem.
And I think the older version uses a split frame, which can make body mounting a regular coupler box a hassle.
Len
Mine has the screw fastened coupler box so I'm afraid I cannot help there but I'd guess that the best bet if it is a split frame would be to create some kind of bracket out of scraps.
That coupler is surely plastic. With fine needle nose pliers and a little finesse you can probably bend it up at the shank outside of the pocket enough to fix it, check with a coupler gauge. I've done that with several spectrum steam engines, no further problem.
You have a point Brick, with a split frame, the problem becomes a major PITA to solve.
I checked the diagram for the older F40PH at http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H870X-IS005.pdf (http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H870X-IS005.pdf) and it's definately a split frame.
I don't have the F40PH, but a long while back I remembered adding body mount couplers to a different split frame loco I do have. So I dug it out of storage (too many locos, not enough layout) to see how I did it. And basically what I did was use a piece of fairly thick styrene to make a strap between the frame halves, then mounted the coupler box to it. With a couple of shims to get the height right. I used a nylon screw to mount the coupler box, to keep from shorting the frame halves together if it went too far through the strap. Sort of like:
Left Frame [___ ___] Right Frame
Strap ______
Screws ^ ^
Cpler Box [ ]
Screw ^
Len
Thank for all the suggestions. Yes it is a split frame. The coupler is held in place by a narrow cliip with a screw. It appears that the coupler pocket, which is held between the two halves of the split frame, has somehow moved and is now allowing the coupler to sag at a downward angle. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Max
Quote from: Len on July 07, 2015, 07:49:58 PM
...use a piece of fairly thick styrene
Thank you
Len. About how thick are we talkin, .4 or so?
Quote from: jbrock27 on July 08, 2015, 03:31:24 PM
Quote from: Len on July 07, 2015, 07:49:58 PM
...use a piece of fairly thick styrene
Thank you Len. About how thick are we talkin, .4 or so?
I forgot to measure while I had it out, but I don't think it was that thick. Just thick enough to tap for a coupler box mounting screw without it tearing out. Maybe .2" thick, or thereabouts.
Len
Thank you for getting back to me on it Len.