i just got my 2-8-4 and i love it, the next engine i will acquire is the bachmann 2-8-0. are there any flaws with this locomotive? is it a "must have"?
Bachmann's Consolidation (2-8-0) has been their most successful steam locomotive, if I may be so presumptuous. It's size allows it to operate on tight radii. It runs as well as any steam locomotive model ever produced. It pulls well for its size.
I have six: two sounders, one original (with white connector plugs), one new standard version, and two somewhere in between. They all run and run and run. Whenever they get quirky, I clean the wheels and contacts, then they're back in action.
As with any complicated model, there are a few things that need to be tweaked. However, these are very minor things we can help you with.
Regards,
Jonathan
Some have noted a dim headlight in the 2-8-0.
Below is a posting by Jim Banner, a former Bachmann contributor.
http://members.shaw.ca/the.trainman/LV_Workshop/pesky-pickups/
Many have commented on this well running loco in different forums.
A great posting by Jonathan on this loco.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,13232.0.html
Rich
Rich;
What I have on mine is this rather spooky shade of green... Colourful...
Rich C.
I have one of the Spectrum DCC On Board version and one of the newer Standard line version and both are nice runners. However the Standard line version could benefit from a better DCC decoder. I would recommend something like even just a plain Soundtraxx DCC (no sound) decoder. The 8 pin 2 function DCC decoder should do the trick. I use one in my Bachmann Spectrum DMIR 2-10-2 and it now starts on speed step 1 on 128 speed step mode with a soundtraxx DCC (no sound) decoder versus speed step 20-ish with the standard Bachmann decoder in 128 speed step mode.
Jonathan;
Nothing "presumptuous" about it-you have simply called a spade a spade. They are great! My only gripe is that on one, the drive wasn't making good contact with the drivers; so I just picked up a new one, considering the one I have is out of warranty. They are great runners!
RIch C.
the 2-8-0 sounds great but i really don't know if i want that or the 2-10-0, are they both just as good? i haven't heard enough information about it for some reason, is it likely the 2-10-0 in particular will come back?
Quote from: sedfred on July 08, 2015, 06:52:48 PMis it likely the 2-10-0 in particular will come back?
If the decapod (2-10-0) is rerun, it will probably be at least 2 or 3 years from now going by past history. However with that said there is still a good number of them out there especially on ebay last I saw. The 2-8-0 Consolidation is obviously still in production and will be much easier to obtain from an actual shop in Canada. If you have reservations about ebay then you may not be able to get a 2-10-0 very easily in Canada.
it is a tossup between the 2-6-0, 2-8-0, and 2-10-0, i can't decide at all! IT'S DRIVING ME CRAZZZYYYY!!!!!!!!!!! i have seen the 2-10-0 still available on a site called half price hobby for 187 bucks. but my goal is to get a new ho scale locomotive before the summer ends on a budget of 20 bucks per week mowing lawns. if the 2-10-0 takes really long would it still be worth the wait? i know for a fact if i wanted the 2-8-0 or 2-6-0 i will be able to get it before summer ends.
If I could only have one of the three, it would be the 2-8-0. The 2-8-0 was the GP of the steam locomotives.
Quote from: sedfred on July 08, 2015, 09:19:37 PM
it is a tossup between the 2-6-0, 2-8-0, and 2-10-0, i can't decide at all! IT'S DRIVING ME CRAZZZYYYY!!!!!!!!!!! i have seen the 2-10-0 still available on a site called half price hobby for 187 bucks. but my goal is to get a new ho scale locomotive before the summer ends on a budget of 20 bucks per week mowing lawns. if the 2-10-0 takes really long would it still be worth the wait? i know for a fact if i wanted the 2-8-0 or 2-6-0 i will be able to get it before summer ends.
I am seeing the HO 2-8-0 DCC, no sound for about $110 at The Favorite Spot. A very good train supplier I have bought from.
They do not show the 2-10-0. but that can change. Depends on when the ship comes in from China.
I Googled Bachmann HO 2-10-0 and found some suppliers. Only with sound from what I could see.
When you are able to buy, Google or ask here. Others here keep up with suppliers and prices.
Rich
i did once find a site which was a treasure trove of discontinued engines, it had 4-6-0s, 2-10-0s, 2-10-2s, K4s, everything still in stock! of course it doesn't ship to canada.... murphy's law! also does the favorite spot have scary shipping and duty? i live in canada and want to find a loco that does not exceed 150 to 160 bucks
It should be noted that the 2-8-0 takes a lot of power to start (I need to go to about 30/128 speed steps whereas my 2-8-2 starts at 1 and the 2-10-0 around 3) But they ate strong pullers that look nice
Quote from: sedfred on July 09, 2015, 12:31:45 AM
i did once find a site which was a treasure trove of discontinued engines, it had 4-6-0s, 2-10-0s, 2-10-2s, K4s, everything still in stock! of course it doesn't ship to canada.... murphy's law! also does the favorite spot have scary shipping and duty? i live in canada and want to find a loco that does not exceed 150 to 160 bucks
Very simple. Check The Favorite Spot website. They have a Contact email address.
Rich
Brick;
What have you tried to get through that problem? Suggestion, as many have mentioned; Have you lubed the joints, such as the rod assemblies, and LIGHTLY lube the worm with a recommended grease. Something else you might have overlooked are the phosphor bronze contact "brushes" that make contact with the drivers? They are between the chassis and the backs of the drivers; pretty ingenious! Check those for good contact. Go easy, because you can distort them.
As far as a "choice of locomotives, I would say hands down, the 2-8-0. For appearances, pulling power and performance, I believe it to be a better choice.
Rich C.
The Locomotive was Brand new (both were, one of them starts at about speed 28, the other at about 35) so I've not given thought to it. they never loose power so I didn't attempt anything with the contacts either. I've taken one of them apart to replace the 4 wire plug once, then again to replace the headlight I burned out, so I know a fair amount about how they are inside.
Incidentally, they both have worse slow speed operation than my 2-10-0 and 2-8-2 (though I'd like to reduce the start speed of the 2-8-2, it can crawl, but even at speed step 1, I get the feeling it could crawl just a bit more). One interesting thing is that all my locos seem to need more power to run in reverse, no idea why. They all got the appropriate amount of break in time.
As for recommendations, the 2-8-0 pulls better but I think the 2-10-0 looks nicer. Many would disagree thinking it looks too Russian but I love it, it and the 2-8-2 are my favorites.
I have 7 2-8-0's, all except the latest came with sound, and they are my go-to engines. Th earlier sound ones in the black box had better, deeper tone soundwise than the later blue box ones. The new standard line one I got has a lousy DCC decoder which is being traded for a Tsunami.
Sedfred , this is a VERY heavy 2-8-0 that towers over my USRA engines, 4-6-2's, 2-8-2's, 4-8-2's and 2-10-2's. It looks great but it "is" a giant among engines that is really too heavy for my branch line. However, they work so well so consistently I overlook it's oversized-ness. Incidentally, those bigger engines, I bought them for the old now gone club layout, which could take them. At this point they are homeless racehorses pent up in the corral.
You won't be sorry you got one of the 2-8-0's. Unless you get a sound one somewhere, though, you will want to replace the decoder.
I wish I had the success others have had with this engine. I now have three, all of which have had or continue to have problems with the belt drive. I have purchased new belts, worm gears and a whole lower assembly and new pins that hold the casings together in trying to get them in better running order. I recently repaired one the of the engines and reassembled the two halves. I tested the motor and the worm gear turned fine. When trying to attach the lower unit, the worm gear would no longer mesh with the spur gear on the axle. I cannot imagine what I have done wrong. I love the looks of these engines and when running, especially with a better decoder, their low speed performance is excellent. I use a tsunami decoder in one of them using F11 braking ...a great feature especially for steam. I recently purchased a WOW steam decoder, but given the problems I am having, I am reluctant to install this decoder in one of these engines. Id love to hear from others who have had these problems ....I've had other Bachmann engines ( K4) which I loved and used extensively but it did use a far different drive system. I'll look forward to hearing form others..Thanks , Rich
How about exploring the possibility of a little shim-stock in the right places? It sounds like you might have to tip the mechanism into the gear a little.
Rich C.
Sounds like you have the problem that has cropped up in some of the 2-8-0 & 2-10-0 early runs. The gearbox/driver gear mesh is incorrect and the gear on the wheel has been "cupped" by the gear in the gearbox. Its an easy fix but its up to you whether or not you send it back. If you do send it back, be sure to remove any decoders, sound units etc. that you have installed, because you won't get those back. They'll just send you a new locomotive.
Remove the screw from under the front that goes up into the steam chest that's between the cylinders. The ends of the ladders from the pilot deck have two plastic tabs that fit into the boiler at the walkway. Pull straight out from the side to release these tabs.
Remove the drawbar screw and drawbar, which makes it easier to get to the other screw under the cab. Slide the frame back and down and the frame and drivers should come out easily. Look at the main driver gear. I bet it has a "cup" shape in the teeth. Now remove via the same pulling back and down method the boiler weight. It too should come out easily, and set the boiler aside. Now look at the part of the weight that fits down into the steam chest. If this section is slightly rounded, you've found the problem. This part is supposed to be completely flat. If rounded, this decreases the gear mesh and causes excess wear.
There are two ways to proceed from here. Neither is difficult but one is more tedious than the other is.
One way, (the tedious one), involves a complete disassembly of the weight, with complete removal of all gears, bearings and insulators from the weight. Depending on your experience, this may not be the best way.
The other way is to take several pieces of tissue paper, paper towel, and stuff the exposed gear and bearing part to prevent metal chips from getting into them and cover with a small piece of tape. This seals the gearbox. Take a small to medium flat file and carefully file the "round" off the end of the weight. Remove the packing, making sure no filings got into the gearbox, and place the weight assembly back into the frame. NOT IN THE BOILER, but on the frame. Place the mechanism with the weight on it and push it back and forth on a piece of track with no power on it. If the mechanism doesn't move except for a little bit, you're almost done. If it starts to move locks up, moves, locks up. You have more filing to do.
Repack the gears, and recover with tape and take the file and file the weight down just a hair where it attaches to the rear of the mechanism. The point is you're trying to lower the weight down onto the gear for a better mesh, without knocking the boiler off level. If you are nervous about doing this, return it to Bachmann.
I did this to mine after the problem showed up on several locos that belong to my club (Wrecking Crew), and that was over five years ago and I haven't had a problem, nor has any of the others, since we did this "treatment" to them. It can also be done to any Spectrums that you get, except for the articulated & shay. I've never known them to have this problem.