Hello,
What is needed if anything if I purchase a C&EI #1925 (USRA AS DELIVERED) - DCC SOUND VALUE (HO SCALE) to make it work. I already have a Bachmann #00692 Pacific Flyer Union Pacific Freight Starter Train Set.
Thank you.
I think all of Bachmanns DCC locomotives will run with DC power pack and speed controller. You just will not have access to all the features. Most modern DCC systems have 28 function buttons for playing sounds and turn lights on and off. I would not recommend buying a DCC system until you need it or grow into it.
Now what I do not know is if the Bachmann power pack that comes with the Pacific Flyer train set has enough amperage to run a sound decoder loco. A question for Bachmann.
I am not sure I would recommend the USRA 2-8-2 models for you second HO locomotive. I have two of them and both of only like perfect level track. They work fine on a dead flat oval layout with no turnouts. But both of them derail at the same spots on the Berkshire valley Route layout I am currently building. Out off all my 30+ HO locomotives I own, These are the only 2 that derail. I do know way these locomotives are derail on my layout. It is mechanical features the other Bachmann locomotives have that this model is missing.
Now for a list of available Bachmann steam locos that work perfectly on the BVR, 2-8-0, USRA 4-6-2, 2-10-0, 2-8-4.
I do not own or have tested the newer N&w 4-8-4, SP 4-8-4 or the NYC 4-6-4.
I main work houses are my 3x 2-8-0s, 3x 2-10-0s, 2x 4-8-2 (no longer made).
I hope this is helpfully.
Agreed about the 2-8-2 needing molecule-correct absolutely level track. When I got my first one, I had to heavily redo a curved area where the engine kept climbing the outside rail. It took some work, but I finally saw a molecular dip that only a leprechaun would've ever noticed, except for that engine too. I got it fixed and now I have a couple of other similar engines that have no problem there. But your previous post appears that you will be running on the floor under a Christmas tree. I don't know if you'll ever be able to keep that engine on the track if it's on carpet. On a hardwood floor, maybe, but that engine is as particular as, well, I won't name any names. 😱😂. One of the Bach Man's 2-8-0's will be much more forgiving on such track.
Also, please be advised that this engine does not include a smoke unit. Don't let that bother you. Experience modelers would consider that a plus. You cannot scale down the physics of smoke to look real at HO level, it always looks toylike and like a cigarette is up inside the engine. Plus, the smoke will eventually dissipate and settle in a film over everything in the room. It won't be immediate that it becomes a problem, but it will be.
Thank you both Tenwheeler01 and trainman203 for the valuable information to my question. I mainly want sound, thought smoke would be nice until trainman203 pointed out some valuable information about smoke.
Under Christmas tree for now. Although in the near future I would like to make a small layout for I don't have much room. May have to N gauge for that.
Again thank you both the information.
The other thing about DCC is that you can get a basic DCC controller like Bachmann's EZ command to run the DCC engine, but if you put your regular DC engine on the DCC track, you will fry the motor. Just be advised.
If you get a DCC engine, you really should consider getting something like an EZ command , so that you have actual control over the sounds,ie blow the whistle, and ring the bell at will. Plus, although the EZ command unit is not Advanced enough to handle them, sound value decoders contain changeable control values for motor control function with which you can make the engine much more smoothly.
It's only my opinion, of course, but the day I changed from DC operation to DCC operation, my life changed forever, and I never looked back. if you do that, your original DC engine can be converted to DCC but that takes money and/or skill. It may end up on the display shop as a memento.
Thank you for the information trainman203 on dcc and dc.
I believe it's better to ask those with more experience for advice rather than learn the hard and expensive way.
Thanks again.
Haha, no matter how much experience we have, we have all learned the hard and expensive way about one thing or another. There's a bunch of us here who have been at this a very long time, in my case, over 60 years, and we will always be glad to help with whatever questions you may have.
I agree complete with Trainman203 about going from DC to DCC being a life changer.
But before you go to far down the DCC path. Is your goal just to have a small layout to run under a Christmas tree? Or are you planing on getting into the hobby? And then what made you go with HO?
My model railroad is HO scale layout with a DCC system for control. Since all my HO locomotives are models they are not suited for being under a tree in our living room. For the under the tree layout I need something that is some what durable and the track can hold up to being assembled and dissembled ever year, Simple to operate, Track can set on top of carpet without issues, and affordable. So for the under the tree layout we alternates between G-scale and O-gauge. G-scale and O-gauge train sets work get for this job.
This works will for me I have my model railroad layout that I work on all year long. And once a year I break out the toy trains to play with.
(note: You can stop reading here the rest is just a quick comparison between G and O for use under a tree. We tried HO one time but catzilla attached derailing the train, And eat the passengers. The C.E.R.R soon went out of business do to family lawsuits.)
Now comparing the two:
G- scale looks very good under a tree. It's larger then most presents under the tree. Most of the steam locos come with chuffing sound and smoke. And I had no need to purchase anything additional. Everything I need was in the Bachmann large scale train set. The included track is a 5'4" x 4'3" oval. I usually take out the 2 straights and just run a 4'3" circle. the track can set on top on the tree skirt without issues. But it is a large scale then the villages they sale at the stores. And you may have to raise the tree or push the low branches up.
O-gauge (Semi-scale, traditional not the way more expensive O-Scale). Most set come with O36 or O31 track. O36 is a 3' circle so it is the same size as an HO 18" radius circle. I think all the O-gauge train set with steam locomotive have sound and smoke. They will have a power pack with a Whistle and bell button or a remote with a whistle and bell button. And usually ever thing you will need is in the train set. O-gauge also looks good with the light up villages they sale at the stores. And the track setting on top of carpet and a tree skirt does not cause running issues. O-gauge sets will come with basic sound (for O-gauge) and a puffing smoke unit. And they are very simple to operate.
Thank you for all of that information Tenwheeler01.
From what I've read and heard I don't think DCC is for me, to much noise and cost.
I chose HO because I don't have allot of space and I wanted something under the tree. I was tempted to try O alas the size.
In the future I would like to try getting into the hobby. Space is an issue so I might have to go N for that.
Nothing in the home to "attack" the train plus little space, makes using smaller gauge okay.
I do appreciate all of this valuable information that is shared with me.
Thank so much.
Quote from: 0-6-0 steam mistress on January 07, 2024, 01:47:00 PMIn the future I would like to try getting into the hobby. Space is an issue so I might have to go N for that.
How much space do you have?
One thing about going into the smaller scales is that the smaller you go the more electrical contact becomes an issue. I was in N scale for a while, and though I had an extensive layout in about 5x8, I was constantly cleaning track, and many of the locomotives were finicky, or ran way too fast. I went back to HO and never looked back.
In HO you can do quite alot in less than the area of a sheet of plywood, and using Nickle Silver track will lessen the need to clean it. The locomotive you now have is a great little starter locomotive, and runs better than almost anything in N scale. The only thing I don't like about those little 0-6-0s is that they don't pull much on an upgrade. I have one on my DC test track right now on my kitchen table, and it will easily pull ten cars of the level. But Bachmann's entry level diesel locomotives can be found online at reasonable cost, and they do pull well on hills.
The DC vs DCC debate, particularly when it comes to running multiple trains at one time, is nothing more than a trade off. With DC, to run more than one train on the same track independently requires breaking up your layout into electrically isolated sections called blocks that you can turn on and off at will, similar to the way you can turn on and off the lights in your house. Despite what you may hear from others, the wiring is relatively simple, with the same basic circuit repeated as many times an necessary. Unfortunately, the modular approach Bachmann uses to wiring EZ track does not lend itself to DC block wiring, though it can be modified to do so without many problems.
I am well versed in Dc wiring though I now run DCC on my permanent layout, and would be happy to provide guidance should you choose to go with a multi train DC layout.
jward,
Much less than a sheet of plywood(4x8), plus no room for a permanent layout for now.
I'm just going to go slow with this. One train at a time.
When I feel confident and have the space I'll definitely reach out for help.
Thank you so much.
Just a point of reference for 'under the tree' trains. The center rail of O36 O-gauge plastic roadbed track is the same diameter as the center-to-center diameter of a circle of 18" radius HO track, with or without roadbed. The main difference is the O-gauge track roadbed is wider.
Len
Quote from: Len on January 08, 2024, 01:19:22 PMJust a point of reference for 'under the tree' trains. The center rail of O36 O-gauge plastic roadbed track is the same diameter as the center-to-center diameter of a circle of 18" radius HO track, with or without roadbed. The main difference is the O-gauge track roadbed is wider.
Len
Len,
Well that certainly clears up any doubts.
Thank you.
Just an afterthought, do you know how much taller the O gauge is versus HO gauge?
Thanks.
I don't have experience with O guage trains, but I can tell you that I design in 3" of overhead clearance for things like tunnels and bridges in HO. Since O is almost twice the size, I'd estimate you'd need 6" of clearance to run them.
WHile what Len said about O guage trains using curves of the same radius as HO is true, but due to their massive size they look rediculous doing so. It also brings its own set of problems, You've got a good starter set, that looks good on the track supplied with it. I'd stick with HO, and keep the curves at 18" radius or larger.
This pick should give a rough idea of the differences in track sizes. Third from the left is HO, fifth from left is O:
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hK17_fjp0D0/Wu2A3GNEhvI/AAAAAAAABrs/km8nWnRZrGopFNLoBJkwkUo9KNG-RLDwQCLcBGAs/s1600/20180505_SuperChief_003.jpg)
Len
There are about double the height. You need about 6" for clearances under the tree.
I did not have to bend up any branches this year. I also put the track on top of snow blanks for the Christmas village. So it was kind of spongy (not an issue for O-gauge).
Now the way I looked at was "It's going under a tree so it's not a real model railroad". So I went with Semi-scale O-gauge. In Semi-scale the cars are shortened to handle O27 and 031 curves which are even tighter then 036. So semi-scale O passenger car is about the same length of a HO scale passenger car. And they look fine on a O36 curve.
Here was my list Pros:
You can accidentally kick a O-gauge car and not hurt it.
It runs handle being on sponge surfaces like carpet.
cars stayed couple under poor conditions.
Puffing smoke I can see.
Very easy to setup and operate.
look good with Christmas villages.
Cons:
Not scale (but under a tree so is this a con?)
Add on cars to the train set are expensive.
O-gauge plug in accessories are expensive.
And just a note on O scale vs semi-scale.
Scale O-gauge locomotives and cars will not all run on 036 track. Most require O42 or O72 which is not at all practical for under a tree.
Another thought on scales. Each scale has it place. They all have pros and cons.
N scale is great scale for module layouts like "T-Trak" Which are just over 12" by 12" module you hook together to form a layout. Each module can have a different scene modeled on them. Also with N scale you can build a good size layout on standard hollow core door. If you want to run full scale passenger trains N scale is great for this. A 13 car passenger train is 6 feet long in N scale over 12 feet long in HO. Cost less the HO and it has come a long way the past few years in available products. (In fact they are making stuff in N-scale that is not available in HO that I would like to have for my HO layout. And this is a very long list now.) My current N scale layout is a door on a folder table and there is a lot of room on this layout Roundhouse, Passenger station, Coalmine , Two small yards.
Now I am not sure way but I have lease derails and coupler issues with my N scale layout then I do on the HO layout. So what I have learned was the reliable between modern N and HO is about the same.
I think I will be giving up a HO passenger service. I do not have a basement or a 40x60 foot shop to run HO scale passenger trains in scale. I am limited to a 12x13 room. So my next project I think will be a T-Trak layout for my N scale passenger trains to run on. This I can fit in a 12x13 room. And very easy moved around.
So for limited space areas N scale is good option. But they are cat bit size :)
Thank you to everyone that responded with all of the information. It's extremely helpful.