Does using metal wheelsets on the rolling stock (particularly freight cars) make for quieter operation? Does it make for smoother operation? Does it make for cleaner operation? If so, does this also apply in the case of metal wheels and plastic trucks? Should the trucks also be replaced? I am just trying to get some information here.
What are the advantages for using metal wheels as opposed to plastic?
If using metal wheels is recommended, where can I purchase them in bulk? I have a bunch of cars and most of them are either Athearn or Walters.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
I'll answer your questions in order.
1. Metal wheels aren't necessarily quieter, in fact they produce a more realistic sound, the rail joint "clack" and they "sing" at high speeds like a real train.
2. Metal wheels have less rolling resistance, guess that could be called smoother. The more important benefit is being able to pull more cars.
3. Metal wheels keep your track cleaner. Plastic wheels, over time will dirty the track, which in turn will dirty locomotive drive wheels, and other car metal wheelsets. Plastic can also develop static electricity which will attract small lint, animal hair and dust bunnies.
4. Nothing wrong with using metal wheels with plastic trucks. You should get the small tool for reaming the journals to make them smoother and burr free. You need to adjust the trucks by bending the journals in or out slightly for least slop but maximum rolling ease.
Place the truck and wheelset assembly on a mirror to check for a warped truck. I use a thin piece of paper for a "feeler gauge". If the paper slides easily under a wheel, the truck is warped, and needs to be gently twisted back to true.
5. One advantage not mentioned above, metal wheelsets are heavier, which will lower the center of gravity, and add a bit of extra weight where it is most important, as it reduces bouncing and derails. General consensus is don't use plastic wheels.
6. Kadee #520 smoothback metal are very good, sold in packs of 12 wheelsets, enough for 3 cars.
My rule of thumb is, a properly tuned and free rolling car should easily and quickly roll by itself down a 2% grade. My test track is a 3 foot piece of flex mounted on a 1 X 4, with one end raised 3/4 inch. Raised 1/2" (1.3%) I expect the car to creep slowly all the way down the grade, with a slight nudge just to get it started.
For complete truck and metal wheel replacement, I use Model Power #9400. I thought my workbench was perfectly level, but often see the truck/wheels rolling off the bench onto the floor, right out of the package. For $2.79 a pair, they are great.
Other members will suggest different options for metal wheelsets.
Real Train Trivia. A freight car loaded to it's rated capacity has less rolling resistance than an empty car.
The only disadvantage I can think of would be their attraction to Kadee uncoupling magnets. They may cause difficulty in uncoupling.
Tne newer metal wheelsets are non-magnetic, just like the rails. I have seen older ones that were not, and they had rust spots on them.
Metal wheelsets also weigh more than plastic wheels. Another advantage of using the metal that I forgot to mention, I edited my post to include it.
Metal wheels are what you want. Bob has given all the reasons I know. I still find a car with plastic wheels, and I change them at once. And use the reamer to clean the journals.
Gene
All of you have completely answered all of my questions...as usual. Some of my freight cars do have metal wheels and they do roll a lot more smoothly. I will change over to all metal wheels. I will also do so for my passenger cars.
Thank you all for your prompt responses to my inquiry.
Three last questions: (1) which brands are non-magnetic? (2) you mentioned a tool for deburring the journals (which I assume are the sockets in the plastic trucks where the wheels fit). What kind of tool are you talking about and where can I obtain it? (3) what is the difference between 33" and 36" wheels? Are they used for different kinds of cars or what?
Brad- As you buy and replace the wheel sets, be sure to note the size differences available. Replacing with different size wheels can change coupler height. And in some cases, it can cause interference with under body parts. - Mike
Generally, passenger cars and modern-era freight cars use 36" wheels, while freight cars dating from the 80's or earlier used 33" wheels. There are exceptions, of course, but that's a rough idea.
Timothy
I use Reboxx or NWSL metal wheels. They have different length axles and the wheels are blackened.
Rich
As far as I know all current metal wheelsets are non-magnetic.
The original reamer is called "The Tool", for HO gauge, made by Industrial Machine and Tool Co, Kansas City, Missouri. Other suppliers may repackage it under a different name. They are hard to find, but I believe Micro-Mark has them. The tool comes with instructions for using. It is a "must have" tool.
The Kadee #520 seems to be the right length axle for most popular freight cars. They are 33". I believe Kadee also has the 36" wheelsets.
Model Power / Mantua vintage passenger cars come with plastic 33" wheels, but since they are Talgo trucks, I replace the entire assembly with Model Power #9400 trucks/metal wheelsets. See my thread "Talgo Upgrade".
By the way, some hobby shops have huge jars full of metal wheelsets, as low as 35 cents per wheelset. They are not the best, but ok for cars that don't get much use.
My freight rolling stock primarily consists of 40' and 50' boxcars, 40' 1 and 3 dome tankers, 2-bay open and closed hoppers, a few 72' box cars and covered hoppers. The manufacturers are primarily Athearn, Walthers and Atlas. So are we talking 33' wheel sets for these?
Use the size that originally came with the car. If the wheels are missing, try the 33" and check coupler height with a Kadee height gauge. (another must have tool).
If the trucks are the older "friction" bearings, or 50 to 70 ton cars, they will probably be 33". For roller bearing 100 ton trucks, probably 36". Again, there are exceptions.
Another must have tool, at least for me, is a precision digital caliper, available at NAPA auto parts for about $25. It measures inch and metric with large numbers. A 33" wheel measures .379 inch, a 36" wheel measures .414 inch. Keep an old plastic 33" and 36" for a visual reference to size.
The caliper is very handy to measure wheel size, axle length, and many other measuring tasks with precision to .0005 inch.
Excellent discussion, answers and suggestions! This board is a must for me!
Thank you all for the valuable information.
You're welcome Brad.
I find it helpful to bookmark threads like this in a special favorites folder. Then if someone else asks the same questions, just paste the link in your reply. It saves having to retype all that information. That's another reason I tried to make the answers as comprehensive as possible.
I also keep titles of some threads in my logbook for searching later. (especially my own threads)
Well, people say I'm long winded, but I prefer to think of myself as "detail oriented" LOL :D
your not long winded, Bob, but I occasionally hear you break your second wind. :o
All the way to Rochester? Wow, that's a new record. Speaking of thunder, I had to shut down earlier tonight, huge thunder boomers, lightning everywhere. We get lots of range fires in the dry season.
For the truck reamer, look on page 116 of the Micro-Mark Anniversary catalog. It's in the lower right hand corner, next to the gutter. On sale for $10.95. When you change plastic to metal, take the extra 20 seconds to use the reamer before inserting the metal wheels.
Gene
A very timely subject for me, I just lucked into a neat find at a garage sale over the weekend.
Two boxes of HO rolling stock. One box is new never assembled Train Minature cars, the other box is MDC Roundhouse cars mainly 36' box cars and cabooses. These were assembled but for what ever reason the couplers were never installed.
All of these of course have the plastic wheels. Which are the recommended metal replacement wheels and should the journals be reamed?
If you are going to put in metal wheels and have a reamer, then ream the journal box. For metal wheels, Intermountain, Kadee, and Life Like are all good. You will see the difference if you try a roll test before and after.
Gene
I was under the impression that the journals on some makes of trucks should not be reamed out.
Does anyone know which make/manufacturer that would relate to?