I have Spectrum 2-8-0 Item 11410 (DC only) engine. When on the track, the motor runs but the locomotive won't move. Makes a sound like the cog belt is slipping. With the motor assembly out of the model, one can turn the belted pulley and the motor shaft turns. The locomotive driver assembly moves freely. When reassembled, it will not move as noted above. I think either the cog belt slips under load, or perhaps, the belt pulley is slipping on the motor shaft under load. I have not disassembled the motor assembly...yet. As there is no cog belt listed in the instructions, it appears the entire motor assembly must be purchased to replace the belt...a very expensive proposition. The engine has been custom painted so I prefer not to send it to Bachmann's service department. Also, I CONTACTED Bachmann service about a week ago but so far no reply to my inquiry. Is this a common problem with the Bachmann cog belt driven engines? Any suggestions?
My club had some experience with at least one belt that stretched after significant usage. :'( We retired one loco that I remember for sure, maybe fixed the other, but it's been several years ago and I just can't dig up the specifics.
Rusty
The group I model with has run many Bachmann Consolidations on our publicly operated layout in our local museum. I have yet to see a belt go bad but have changed a number of counter shaft bushings that have worn oval, leaving the belt loose. (The counter shaft is the one with the worm gear on it.) The bushings are small brass rings, about 1/8" O.D. The shaft should be in the middle. How the shaft sits is easy to see once you have the locomotive apart. In a pinch, you can make new bushing out of brass tubing or you can turn the old ones 180o around their axis and ACC them in place (clean first, relubricate afterwards.) If the grooves in the frame halves are worm, you may have to make new, long bushings, ACC them in place, and keep them in place with a bit of epoxy. Making and installing the longer bushings is a bit more work than just replacing parts but is virtually cost free and normally outlasts the originals.
If you have a loose belt pulley on the motor, you can usually fix it with a bit of ACC glue. Remove the pulley, clean the shaft and inside the pulley with alcohol, put a small drop of ACC inside the pulley and put the pulley back in place. Note that if you put the ACC on the shaft, there is a danger of pushing it into the motor bearing and gumming up the works.
Two other possibilities are that the worm has split or its pinion of the main axle has split. This is theoretical - I have yet to see that happen in this locomotive.
Jim
If I remember correctly, the entire motor assembly cost $15.
Our club has a 2-8-0 that would run intermittently. On the bench everything worked fine. Under load it would stop.
Upon close examination while installing new cog belt I found the pinion cog on the motor shaft was split. There was just enough friction to move the mechanism without load, but once it started to slip it was dead in the water. I tried some Dr. Mikes ACC after cleaning the shaft and gear as previously recommended, but that only worked for a short time. Ultimately I replaced the motor with new gear as that is the only way to get the part. As stated, the motor and gear is $15.00. If you only need a new belt after close examination, call the service dept. and ask...they are available.
Michael
Boalsburg, PA
As the Connies are now sound only units I wonder if you could obtain a replacement from Bachmann.
I would opt to try for a replacement before all of the 2-8-0's are gone. If the 2-8-0's without sound are gone I wonder which model you would be offered as a replacement?
Thanks everyone....you gave me the 'shop orders,' now it's time to grab the tools.