Recently, I happened across and old Athearn Loco Kit, #4282, GP35, B&O (of course), with flywheel-drive. It came with metal railings and stanchions. Picked it up cheap.
I am presently in the throws of building this model and upgrading as I can. Have hardwired the trucks (no more brass clip), added Kadee couplers, and assembling and painting the body parts.
A few questions if you don't mind.
1. The engine is more noisy than my newer models. Is this to be expected? I have cleaned and lubed the trucks. It's more noisy going forward than reverse. If it's normal, I can live with it. It runs smoothly otherwise.
2. Are the old drive wheels good to run on? They are obviously the old iron (sintered?) wheels, which sparked at first, but after I cleaned them, they seemed fine. More concerned about cleanliness and durability than appearance.
3. Does anybody know how old this kit might be? It was never opened, and I feel a little lucky to have found a loco kit at all. Can't find a date on anything in the box..
Will post pics when I'm done. Having fun with it!
Regards,
Jonathan
Some people swear at Athearn wheels, others swear by them. My own experience has been positive. I use a tiny bit of light weight, conductive oil on my rails. This helps suppress sparking and allows the wheels to wear in to a mirror shine.
Athearn gears can be noisy. The standard cure for years was to clean off the oil and grease and apply Pearl Drops toothpaste. It has just enough abrasive to polish up the gears in a few hours of running (various speeds, both directions.) Then you scrub off the toothpaste very thoroughly using a soft old tooth brush and lots of running water. Finally you re-lubricate with gear oil on the gear teeth and light oil on the bearings.
Jim
My old Athearns run louder than my newer ones, but Jim has great advice on that. I don't think there's anything wrong with the old drive wheels. In the last few runs of Blue Box Kits, Athearn did not make a B&O GP35, so it has to be from before 1999, but I expect it isn't from before the late 1980's because it has a flywheel. If I had to guess I'd say early to mid 1990s. And 2 or 3 blue box locomotive kits are still available from Athearn (they are F7Bs).
Thanks, Jim.
I actually applied tiny drops of conducta-lube to each wheel, and let it run for a while. That cured the sparks. If it gets the wheels shiny as well, all the better.
I've read the "pearl drops" solution somewhere before. Didn't realized it was meant to quiet the gears. Will ponder that one. Sounds like a good slow-day project.
Jonathan
All my LHS's have a few of the kits still, but they are quite old. I have never considered them kits as the loco is really already assembled but have some details that need installation(very similar to kato locos) but that's not important. Quite a few years ago I got a set of blue box dash-9s one powered and a dummy, but the powered unit wasent very reliable and I never even cared to install dcc in it. However I REALLY liked the dummys because they were fun and easy to place in different parts of long trains without difficult dcc programming (at least difficult to me) so I've been fortunate to find several $10 dummys at different train shows. They are neat locomotives to have and athearn was really the biggest manufacturer of dummy locos. The detail of the models are definetly basic but a great starting point for super detailing with I've done to all mine. Now at this point I really don't know why I'm rambling on about these kits but hey maybe some of this is relevant...
As a side note, one of my LHS still has a ton of blue box locos (powered & dummies) and another LHS has a ton of blue box rolling stock, so I've got a good amount of Athearn kits to choose from. The kit rolling stock is still readily available too. Athearn made a lot of affordable, good running, detailed locos. I have one from the late 70s that still runs great.
Don't worry, the 'rambling' was quite relevant. I also intend to super detail this loco in the future... wiper blades, decals, MU hoses, number boards, etc, the list is endless. For now I just need to finish the initial project. Gonna weather it just a bit, so it looks as old as it sounds. Will post some pics, soon. Now where is my wife's camera....
Jonathan
Now with your first loco kit out of the way, it's time to move to a Bowser kit. They have a nice super detailed USRA mike kit that you'll just love.
Oh Yeah I forgot to point out another thing the blue box locos are great for, and that is repainting. My first repainting project was with a nice inexpensive blue box sd40. There was no risk in wrecking an expensive loco bit rather a $10 one.
PD,
I thought Bowser quit producing steamer kits a while a go? All the listings say discontinued or something to that affect. If I see one at the upcoming train show (counting the days), I will consider grabbing it up. Are they expensive?
Tylerf,
don't know about repainting. Don't feel like the small fortune investment in an airbrush system is in my future. Also, I only buy and model CSX, Amtrak and B&O. It does sound tempting, though.
Regards,
Jonathan
Bowser's steam locomotive kits are semi-available. Currently, they are taking all their spare parts and throwing them together in a box to make as many complete kits as possible, and they will do this until they run out of sufficient parts. I would expect they would be kind of hard to get though, and may only be through special order.
you can find a good supply of Bowser kits at Paws Trains.
The usra mike and pacific with detail kit run under $140 The motors are DCC ready.
Here's the pics of my progress on the GP-35. I kept the weathering subtle. I used a little diluted white glue to keep the stanchions in place before I painted them. The arch welder light is still on board. I haven't reached my lighting binge stage, yet. The whole thing got a quick shot of dullcote. You can see the tape marks where I masked the windows. Didn't even know the residue was there until I zoomed in on the pics. She runs and pulls great. Will get to the gear polishing in the near future.
Thanks for the free advice.
Regards, Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0784.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0783.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0782.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0781.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0779.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0778.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0777.jpg)
Hi Jonathan;
Nice work.
A few points on information:
* the Athearn flywheel drive came out in the mid '70s for the GP35.
* the plastic truck side frames point to your model being mid '80s or later.
* based on the differences in performance between forward and reverse, you probably need to also shim the worms so that they cannot move very far - .002" is more than enough clearance. To shim the worms, you but thin flat washers between the worm and the bearings on each side of the worm.
* the sintered iron wheels will last forever, and provide great traction. Their downside that they are dirty.
Thanks, Nigel.
Will be on the lookout for tiny washers... along with all the super detail parts... and thicker glasses!
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan,
I have two B&O GP35, older than the version you have as they have the metal side frames on the trucks. I have brand new handrail kits to go with them. These engines were my Dad's and have not run in many years. If you want them, contact me via email at ebtbob@verizon.net. You can have for free. I will ship them to you. They are the dark blue with the "sun beam" nose of the low hood end.
Bob Rule, Jr.
Jonathan,
Two B&O GP35s are headed your way, mailed yesterday, 8-14-09.
Thanks, ebtBob. As the kids
say, "You Rule!"
Sincerely, Jonathan
ebtbob,
The GP35s arrived today! That was quick...
OK, here's what I see so far.
My original had two brass flywheels and plastic truck side frames. Best guess is that one is from the mid-nineties. One of the locos you sent has two flywheels made of iron I'm guessing, and it has metal side frames... from the Eighties maybe? I put that one on the track to test. Man it took off like nobody's business, just as smooth and quiet as you please. Somebody took good care of that engine.
The final loco has no flywheels or headlight, although the motor looks new (it's all shiny inside). Can't get it to run, however. All the parts turn freely, but doesn't respond to power. So, I'll save that one for last. Will have to take it down to parade rest, to clean and solve the lack of response.
Starting on the iron flywheel Geep. Once the shell is completed, I'll hardwire the motor to the trucks. That be all that is required for the guts. She seems to be well lubed, smooth and quiet. Oh, there were no couplers, or gear boxes, but I think that an easy fix with a couple of assembled #5 Kadee's. Just need the right sized screw to fit in the hole on the coupler tab.
This will be oodles of fun. Plus, I get a break from trees and ground foam (tedious). "God help me, I do love this hobby so."(George C. Scott)
Thanks again, Bob. Hope to return the favor someday. Even better, if I can "pay it forward".
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan,
Since both of those engines have the metal side frames, I think it is safe to say they are from the 70s or early 80s. The one without flywheels almost assuradly is from the 70s. I am glad the one ran so well for you.
And....you are correct, quick delivery as I mailed them yesterday afternoon at around 1pm
Enjoy,
Bob
Here's the flywheel version....
Before:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0795.jpg)
And after:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0798.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0797.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0799.jpg)
She runs great. Still need to tune the couplers a bit, and hard wire the motor. Not bad for a day though.
Thanks,
Jonathan
Here are my final pics for this post.
From front to back are the 1990's model with brass flywheels, 1980's with iron flywheels, and 1970's with no flywheels. The shells are identical. Funny how Athearn didn't renumber the loco with each new run (project for another day).
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0804.jpg)
All three engines were stripped down, cleaned, relubed and rewired. They all have 1 hour of running time and were tested pulling 14 cars at a time. However, the oldest loco gets balky after about 20 minutes of running (motor gets hot). I suspect it's my poor soldering, and not the engine's fault. Also, I had to get creative with coupler mounting, using spare parts, with the oldest engine. Though all the couplers hold well and haven't let go, even when double-heading. The traction on the old wheels is much stronger than the modern nickel silver. Go figure.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0802.jpg)
Will fiddle with these locos a lot, to learn lighting and superdetailing. For now, they're ready for general service. Many thanks to ebtbob for donations to my home-school project. Always learning... Now back to the ground foam...
Regards,
Jonathan
the 1990's model with brass flywheels. It also has a better motor.
The motor over heating could be because of its age and the magnet getting weaker
OK, so maybe it's not me. I ran the two flywheel models this morning, for over an hour (double heading). Turned 'em around after 30 minutes and ran the other way. Had no problems.
I now have 8 Athearn locos, 8 Bachmann locos, and one Atlas Silver Series that run well. You would think that would be enough to keep anyone happy. Who am I kidding...
Thanks,
Jonathan
jonathan,
Do you have a youtube user?
Adam
No.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0826.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0825.jpg)
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