Here's one of mine
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/coach.jpg)
Can anyone guess the road name?
Photos with the road name and all will be posted later once the home made decals finish drying(about another hr and a half)
Post shots of your kit bashes work in progress paints, etc...
since no one wants to guesss
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/CAROL1.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/CAROL2.jpg)
That looks pretty nice, if you had shown me just the picture with decals I would have never guessed it had homemade decals!
(Also I would have never guessed that road name :))
Those are homemade WOW!
Robert
I may sound silly.... But Carrolwood was for Walt Disney, right?
Yep. I got the set with plans on using it for the Musuem i want to do on my layout if i ever build it. and the idea dosent sound right without passenger cars to go with it so i made two of em using the paint scheme from teh caboose(only 1 coach is shown)as you can see in the photo i got both colors and decal colors close.
BaltoOhioRRfan, you made those decals...including the logo? WOW!!! I agree with BestSnowman: I would have never guessed they were 'homemade'. This makes me want to try making some decals myself. Thanks for the pictures and the inspiration.
Ray
I put the coaches together for the first time this evening and they look great together. no pics yet as i gotta go to work shortly :'( but maybe next weekend.
B&ORRfan,
Sorry, just found your thread, as I happened to be at WDW (coincidence?).
If I understand your thread, you want others to post their current projects as well. If so, here's my little obsession at the moment:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1229.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1230.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1231.jpg)
Can't get enough old GP35 kits. Just picked up a 5th one. Some have missing lenses or coupler clips, one needs a new motor, but I'll get it all together one day.
They all run, and all the lights work, thanks to help from forum members. Here's my current lighting set up:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN0976.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN09771.jpg)
Didn't install a diode. I like all the lights on in either direction (rule one). I find the old brass connector clip makes great light brackets.
Still need sunshades, eye bolts, wipers, etc.
Anyway, great project you have. Hope I'm not highjacking your intent. Will pull this post if not what you had in mind.
Thanks for sharing.
Jonathan
You nailed the intent, for others to also show off thier projects....kinda like a post in a gaming forum im a part of that as a thread for everyone to show off thier projects so theres not 100's of posts of indivudaly people posting projects....
missin the Capital domes on the Sunbursts.....also you have plans to renumber a couple of em?
and heres a close up of the side emblem on my coaches..
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/emblem.jpg)
Wow,
When you wrote homemade decals, do you mean the PC and printer paper kind? As previously wrote, it makes me want to try it, too. Do you need an inkjet or will laser printer do?
The detail underneath is pretty great as well.
Jonathan
Laser would be better....but i use inkjet but im activly lookin at lasers
I've got a couple projects going, I've got a couple locomoties awaiting decoders and I'm designing a shelf layout but nothing with much for pictures right now.
I do have one project I've been spending sometime on a programming project that is train related. I haven't really told anybody about this but I've been writing a program that keeps track of all my rolling stock, and locomotives. I'm also has some support for keeping track of CV profiles and a Manifest system for operations. Since I am thinking of making my shelf layout Inglenook based I might add functionality to generate starting and end configurations.
I've got some screen shots here: http://cid-811d1df10b2b3e61.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/TrackManager
Its far from completed but I think I've settled on the basics of the UI.
I have a system in place to keep track of locomotive status's and rolling stock....about 12 spreed sheets, 1 Locomotives, 1 for PAss Cars, 1 for Box cars, 1 for Old Time Freight Cars(I decided to split up OT from "Modern" have yet to do it on the passenger cars) etc. i useally print em out 1nc a month heres how they look.....
Heres a sample from my engine roster, i blurred out the cost so no one decides to try and rob me....
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/roster1.jpg)
and as you can see below not as much info is kept on the rolling stock
heres a sample from my passenger car list...
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/roster2.jpg)
to see readable versions right click and select properties and copy and paste the URL into your browser
or just rightclick and click save as
I hadn't thought of keeping track of costs, then again I'm not sure if I want a summary of how much I have spent readily available for my wife to find.
I thought about just doing excel but I do enjoy programming and where theres a simple solution there is an over engineered solution :)
true :-X
"missin the Capital domes on the Sunbursts.....also you have plans to renumber a couple of em?"
Yes, I have figured out how to remove all or part of the old number. Haven't found a decent decal or dry transfer to put on a new one. That's why I'm curious about making my own decals. I have one or two other locos I want to renumber as well (plus make my own Capitol Dome decals).
Regards,
Jonathan
I believe Microscale puts out a close color match, maybe try Champ they are nice decals and have several sets(Steam B&O, and freight cars) Reminds me, i gotta dos 3 normal C&O Coaches in spectrum(I bought a whole case of undec coaches and undec pullmans, dont as why i had a big plan to do some through road names and B&O Pullman green coaches and pullmans which i have yet to start on and all i have to do is put decals on em.......im lazy haha)
Laziness is relative. ;) After only three years of building a layout, I found I have more projects than I can possibly get to. Scenery is never-ending. Detailing rolling stock is continuous. It goes on forever. I keep reminding myself, it's not the destination, it's the journey that counts.
Jonathan
ha, when i finally get to my layout it probably will never be done, (well once i get the orginal done, i'll probably keep adding, subtracting ETC, if I Subtract a line the intent is to keep the "Grading" and bridges in place(maybe rails here and there) just like in the real world. When i worked at modeltrainstuff.com every morning i passed by abannded tracks and worked not to far from a old Northern Central Depot, and right on the other side of the street from the depot was a 3 track yard.
http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&FORM=LMLTCP&cp=qkdcb98mcm75&style=b&lvl=2&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&phx=0&phy=0&phscl=1&scene=7133176&encType=1 (http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&FORM=LMLTCP&cp=qkdcb98mcm75&style=b&lvl=2&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&phx=0&phy=0&phscl=1&scene=7133176&encType=1)
Thats a "Birdseye" of the old depot and if you move to the south just a hair on the map you can see the old yard.
I've been gone from here for a while, so here's some of the stuff I've been working on since you last heard from me. I've had plenty of time to work on trains again since I couldn't drive for the last two weeks....got to have my jaw broken in 3 places surgically. ugh. But, enough of that, here's some pictures for yous guys.
My latest is an Athearn GP7 repaint. I hand painted it because I couldn't find the masking tape.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z250/kevin2083/layout/PICT0089.jpg)
I redid this one again. I can never seem to be satisfied with how it turns out.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z250/kevin2083/layout/PICT0088.jpg)
and these are most of the diesels I repainted. The one on the far right is my GP40M creation that has since been painted to CSX. There's also the yellow and black GP4M that finally has some truck sideframes
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z250/kevin2083/layout/PICT0157.jpg)
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z250/kevin2083/layout/PICT0156.jpg)
and this is why you haven't heard from me in a while.... Been trying to keep 2 Jeeps running
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z250/kevin2083/Jeep/33c.jpg)
hmm, thought i posted this shot of two cabooses I made........i'm loosing my mind at only 23 yrs old.....
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/DSCF0035.jpg)
Again,
Your decal projects look great. I have a bobber that would love to get B&O lettering on it.
Jonathan
I recently ordered, what I consider to be, a rather expensive B&O caboose pair. They look great, but they need to be lit. This I have never done, so it's time for a learning project.
I obtained a Bachmann trio a while back that had an Amtrak loco, dummy and caboose. The engine and dummy are fine, but the caboose is, well, non prototypical shall we say? So I decided to sacrifice it to my higher education. Here is what it looked like after I dismantled it:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1237.jpg)
Here is my hack job of making wipers out of some spare trucks:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1239.jpg)
Here is the truck frame all put together:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1241.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1240.jpg)
I used 12-16v GOR bulbs (fit perfectly in a 3/32 drilled hole).
Here is the result:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1243.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1244.jpg)
Spent about 14 hours and $8 (bulbs and paint). Didn't do this to learn how to paint rolling stock, but I made a poor attempt anyway. The blue was actually high gloss, but it looked to garish to me, so I sprayed dullcote all over.
Anyway, the lights work. They flicker whenever I roll over a turnout frog. Wasn't expecting that. I could add more wipers, but the trucks are a little stiff as it is. So I'll let it slide. Now I'm ready for the expensive caboose. Hope I don't break the ladders. They are delicate you know...
Regards,
Jonathan
PS. After I photographed and posted this, I took the model apart, painted all the wires black and tried to hide 'em as best I could. Guess I need some forum instruction on hiding wires :). Also, reglued the stack to the roof, and added window glazing.
Goodness gracious Jonathan - you are light years ahead of anything I have attempted (...and I have been in the hobby for years)!. Your attention to detail is excellent and I love those rear lights on the cabooses (heck, I like the picture you took of the caboose on your layout). Your paint and decal work on the various locomotives is outstanding...'way to go!
Thanks for sharing,
Ray
Ray,
Thank you very much. I feel a caveat is in order. While I have been playing with my trains for only three years, I have had a lot of ideas dancing around my head for over 40 years. I had lots of time to learn a few things, while waiting for the opportunity to bring the ideas to life.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on October 10, 2009, 08:26:32 AM
Again,
Your decal projects look great. I have a bobber that would love to get B&O lettering on it.
Jonathan
The decals I used on the cabooses are by CHAMP and they still had some last i checked for about $4(1 set is good for one car mostly but i squeezed two out of a set, i just didnt put the "C" in front of the number.
P.S. I just got back from the Great Scale Model train Show, i found a bunch of stuff(well a good bit) I'll post pics asap.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,10650.0.html pics of stuff i bought is on that thread.
One way of hiding the wires is to use plastic window glazing. Before you install the glazing, you scuff the inside with #600 wet and dry paper using a circular sanding motion. In bulk, it looks like ground glass. In context as windows, it looks like dirty ones. The scuffing helps show off the interior lighting but at the same time hides the wires, the unfinished interior, and a host of other sins. The shiny outside still gives the appearance of glass.
The same trick works in buildings. But with buildings you can also go the next step - painting curtains and blinds on the inside. With an olde time railway, you could do the same with caboose windows.
Glass can also be scuffed but it takes more work.
Jim
Jim, you are always a wealth of knowledge. As I DID put plastic glazing in the windows, I will look around the garage (layout room) for said 600 grit paper. I believe I have a sheet somewhere between the unused cereal boxes (heavy card stock) and extra sheets of styrofoam (coal load bases). I'll Have to try sanding with one finger, since the glazing is already glued in place.
Thanks as always,
Jonathan
This is what all that practice was for. Like a few others around here, I'm a huge B&O fan. Was very excited when Walthers put there Platinum Line Cabeese on sale. So I bought a 2-pack. I knew I wanted to light at least one of them. Was surprised to find out there was an interior detail included. I just had to paint the inside. Even with it lit up bright, it's hard to see in the plastic glazing.... but if you look real close...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1256.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1265.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1261.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1262.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1269.jpg)
Only problem I have is the centering spring/wipers are too tight against the wheels, so it won't roll properly. I have to get the nerve up to bend 'em back a little, so I can actually put her at the end of a train. Perhaps I'll be brave enough to adjust the springs tomorrow. For now, I'll just enjoy the pictures.
Regards,
Jonathan
someone needs to do a B&O Steam Era caboose again......like athearn on the NE series...
Or you could try battery backup.
Wow, that is a nice looking caboose! Your lighting projects have given me an idea of my own. Put an LED on as the end of train marker but instead of going straight to the rails for power put a cheap decoder in it so I can turn it on when used or off when parked in a siding.
All I need to do is figure out the eletrics for the flashing and find the time to try it.
BestSnowman,
Thanks, much.
Can't help you with DCC. That's still the dark side to me. I know there are flasher units available that are small enough to fit in a caboose.
However, finding the time is a routine I had to work on. I have two small children, on my second career, a dog, a yard and all the other stuff that goes with living life. The only work around was to live without a little sleep each day. I get up at 4:00 am each day, take the dog out, start the coffee, maintenance the baby, etc, and head to the layout for whatever awaits. I do this every day (well, most days) until I leave for work. This way I don't interfere with family time, job, housework, etc.
It works, but I could use more sleep!
Regards,
Jonathan
BaltoOhioRRfan
Did you use the a computer Program? If so what one and it not can you give some more details?
Also have you been to the B&O Museum in Baltimore? It is great. For the longest time my son and I have bounced back and forth to what RR we will model. Just last week my son noticed that most everything we have is B&O and ATSF. So now we need to make that work.
Jonathan
Great work on the Caboose!
General question to all.
Can something be DCC controlled but Battery powered?
Robert
There never does seem to be enough time in the day I get up at five every day but I have to be on the road by 5:30 to get to work (70 miles one way).
I imagine one could fashion a flasher out of materials found at radio shack but I just need to find out which ones (I'm a software engineer not an electrical engineer).
Generally speaking there is nothing that defines that DCC be powered through the rails. I believe there are some DCC systems that use batteries and radio frequency. I think they are common on large scale systems.
BestSnowman,
This is a shot in the dark, but I'm beginning to believe you live or work somewhere near Rochester, MN. I'm from Spring Valley. If not, nevermind. I know I have seen DC flasher units for less than $20. I'm not an electrical guru either, but I'm discovering 12v-16v DC power is not too complicated to work with. I know Jim Banner can do the math and give you a parts list for Radio Shack. I tend to do trial and error until it works, but also listen to the great advice from the wisdom on this forum.
Large Scale does have radio frequency systems. I know some of the mini camera stuff is adaptable to HO.
Robert, thank you, it's a labor of love.
Regards,
Jonathan
I actually live in St Peter, MN and work in Eagan. Spring Valley isn't that far away really (relatively speaking, I went to a wedding in Brainard so after spending 6 hours round trip in the car 120 miles isn't very far :) )
The simplicity of DC is nice, some days I wish I was running DC for the simplicity of it.
Quote from: Robertj668 on October 18, 2009, 07:42:24 PM
BaltoOhioRRfan
Did you use the a computer Program? If so what one and it not can you give some more details?
Also have you been to the B&O Museum in Baltimore? It is great. For the longest time my son and I have bounced back and forth to what RR we will model. Just last week my son noticed that most everything we have is B&O and ATSF. So now we need to make that work.
Jonathan
Great work on the Caboose!
General question to all.
Can something be DCC controlled but Battery powered?
Robert
Yes I've bene there. I live in the City of Baltimore so I can get there easily. I own 3 HO scale model Locomotives of the real thing sitting in the musuem, a 4th is the same model just a diffrent road number......i have in my collection that the B&O Musuem have
American Freedom Train #1
Baltimore & Ohio #25 "William Mason"
Baltimore & Annapolis #50
I also have a 2-6-6-6 Allgehney but with a diffrent road number then at the musuem
and the program i use for making decals is Paint Shop Pro 7. takes a lot of work to get the decals sized just right.
heres another thing i made using custom decals. its a truck i race in a game made into a diecast
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/hauntedfront.jpg)
(http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee31/BaltoOhioRRFan/hauntedback.jpg)
BaltoOhioRRfan
We live in Texas but visit that Museum about 3-4 times a yr. So we bought the family membership!
Here below is my new Project. never built one so wish me luck.
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/012-1.jpg)
I recently had a bit of an update on a project, I've been working on an Athearn SDP40 (I've mentioned it on the forums earlier). I finally got the decoder installed and working.
It has fought me every step of the way, and the decoder was no exception. I used a Digitrax DH123AT decoder since it comes with a harness specifically for Athearns. For those that haven't followed my previous posts on this locomotive, it was originally my dad's some 20 years ago in one of his previous attempts to build a layout (he started and was forced to stop several times over the years because things would come up). After working throught some weird behavior we determined it had never been broken so combining that with corrosion and rust from sitting in a box it was in tough shape.
I'm planning on visiting my parents this weekend and I'm going to take it along so my dad can finally run it on a layout. Then I'm going to work on fine tuning the decoder, installing lights, and fixing the couplers (right now I don't have the right couplers so they aren't the correct height.
BestSnowMan,
Since your Athearn loco is 20 years old, can you describe the motor for me? I have posted previously that I'm working on several old athearn GPs. I have completely isolated the motor on a 1960s GP, with an old open frame motor and no flywheels (dark cylindrical magnet with no cover, but plastic end fittings). It runs much better with an isolated motor, and doesn't heat up as much. Now I want to finish isolating the others, if it's worth it. Does yours have flywheels? Are they brass or pot metal? I believe you posted previously that you replaced the iron wheels. Guess I'm trying to find out what improvements you deemed necessary. Thanks,
Jonathan
OK I really went down a rabbit hole with the cabooses for a while. This is the last one for me. There's too much other modeling to get to. I wanted to make one with all-wheel pick up, to eliminate flickering.
Here's what the trucks look like after using up the last of my coupler springs:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1272.jpg)
Here's what it looks like lit up... remember I'm a bad photographer:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1275.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN1274.jpg)
I've found if you gently rock the springs in and release, with a small flat screwdriver... just a tiny bit, the springs will touch the wheels gently, and not create too much drag. I also cleaned the inside of the wheels with alcohol, then coated with conductalube, ever so slightly. This helped, too.
I know, next someone will suggest a battery vice track power. I dunno, somehow this is more magical to me. ::)
Anyway, I'm getting OCD from all this tiny wiring, so it's back to the scenery, after a couple days away from the layout.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on October 23, 2009, 08:32:59 PM
BestSnowMan,
Since your Athearn loco is 20 years old, can you describe the motor for me? I have posted previously that I'm working on several old athearn GPs. I have completely isolated the motor on a 1960s GP, with an old open frame motor and no flywheels (dark cylindrical magnet with no cover, but plastic end fittings). It runs much better with an isolated motor, and doesn't heat up as much. Now I want to finish isolating the others, if it's worth it. Does yours have flywheels? Are they brass or pot metal? I believe you posted previously that you replaced the iron wheels. Guess I'm trying to find out what improvements you deemed necessary. Thanks,
Jonathan
It has flywheels, they look like steel to me. As for the wheels I actually haven't replaced them yet. I ended up getting a wire brush for a dremel and tried polishing the heck out of them. Since then I've had no problems with them yet. I'm not sure how long of a term this solution will be.
I will likely end up replacing the wheels at some point but it works for now.
Thats a nice looking caboose I bent up a kadee spring today on accident, maybe I'll have to apply it to my first lighted caboose.
Yep, those springs have a million and one uses. I ordered an extra dozen so I can actually use the couplers that came with the springs!
OK, I think the iron flywheels means your loco is from 1974 to the late eighties possibly. It still used the same motor from the sixties. Although I can't recall what year they switched to the brass flywheels (1989 maybe?). In the mid nineties, they switched to a better motor, BUT started using the noisier gear system. I probably have the dates all wrong, but I haven't found a good historical source yet on HO trains. hoseeker does help, if you enjoy searching through old catalogs. These are best guesses so far. I'm sure someone can correct me. I have to say, I have one with the iron flywheels, and it is the smoothest and quietest runner of all my old Athearn GPs. They really got that one right, especially after you hard wire that baby. Hope your SDP40 runs forever for you.
Regards,
Jonathan
PS. Robertj668, please let us know how the laser wood kit is coming. I want to build one someday, when I get braver, and more patient.
PPS Yes I have ordered some superdetail parts for my old Athearns, thanks.
It has been running really good since I got it broke in and got a decoder installed. Its not a quite runner by any standard, but it'll crawl along smoothly and rocket around the track and an incredibly high speed.
Now that I've practiced isolating motors on my old Athearns (definitely improved response at slow speeds and virtually removed light flicker), It was time to do a modern GP40-2. Didn't want to ruin my newer locos.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/DSCN0362.jpg)
One things no one has mentioned was how hard it was to solder to the truck gear box. Didn't matter how much flux I used. Didn't matter if the loco was from 1966 or one year ago. It took forever for the solder to join the wire to the side of the box. I was sure I was going to melt something vital.
This pic was taken just before I soldered the lights and positioned the wires.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN1337.jpg)
Here you can see where the wires joins the gear box just behind the wheel. There is just enough clearance! I used telephone wire I found in the trash in our comm room at work (free is good). Granted it was a little stiff, but the trucks turn freely and it's easy to position the wire out of the way of moving parts.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN1341.jpg)
The bottom wires are soldered to the motor clip end. I cleaned the commutator, too.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN1348.jpg)
The old connector clip makes excellent light stands, using krazyglue and pressure from the shell to hold it in place
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN1349.jpg)
She runs like a scalded dog!
Pulled out my SD38 and SD70, and they were already isolated (DCC ready). I'm one step closer to the dark side (insert mechanical breathing here). OK because of all the great adivce on this forum, I now have OCD. Thanks,
Jonathan
the wires in a old mouse cable are the right size and quite flexible remember how flexible a mouse cable is. Maybe an old keyboard might have small flex cable. i find sacrificial lambs every so often. :D
I use a 40 watt soldering iron with a clean tip and rosin flux. i clean the soldering spot with a scratch brush like the below. preparation is very important.
The wire you use is ok but does not like a lot of flexing if it is the solid type.
http://www.micromark.com/SCRATCH-BRUSH,8058.html
lex
Lexon,
Good tip, thanks. I used a jewlers screwdriver and sandpaper to prep the spot.
I realize stranded wire is probably better. However, it seemed that the trucks swivel very little in reality, especially on 24" radius. Oh well, if I break a wire, at least I know how to fix it. TTFN. Off to dumpster dive for some stranded wire!
Regards,
Jonathan
another good source for wire are old rj45 cables. they contain 4 twisted pairs of stranded wire. very flexible and easily untwisted. 4 pairs are actually 8 color coded wires. I used a cable to make wires for my atlas switch machines.
one thing to remember when using solid wire, a nick from a knife, razor blade will create a weak point at that nick. flexing at that nick and the wire can break easier than any other part of the wire. i use a wire stripper form micro mark that strips 22 to 30 wire with no nicks. not so bad if you nick stranded wire.
for ho scale 28 or 30 stranded wire is just fine in motors and decoders.. even magnet wire is good but is solid. you have to use soldering iron tip to strip coating.
i get a lot of wire from scrap stuff. i guess think in the dumpster. think recycle. old small motors, relays. I just got about 3 feet of nice small wire from an old keyboard.
colors of wire could be a problem. you might not always find the colors you want.
i use a caliper to measure small sizes. mine is a 6 inch digital from micro mark.
harbor freight has cheap calipers which are very good for ho trains. just takes a little practice. for many years I used a cheap dial caliper. it has a dial with a pointer.
the thing is to have fun. good luck to all.
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?catPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FUserSearch%253Dcaliper¤tPage=2&lastPage=2&isNext=false&isPrevious=false&category=&attributeValue=&attributeName=&requestedPage=1&resultsPerPage=10&resultsPerPageBottom=0
lex
almost forgot, i use shrink tube from radio shack to insulate wire junctions. a bare wire to a decoder touches something it sholud not and smoke. think spend more money.
Hey Jonathan how well does krazy glue make that new lightstand stick? The SDP40 I've been working on the light stand keeps coming off and I haven't found a good way to re-secure it.
Since I can't easily get to the truck sideframe for so I have been going off of the light post which gets frustrating when it won't stay put.
PD, I hadn't thought of using old ethernet cables for wiring. I do have a surplus of ethernet cables right now...
BestSnowMan,
Krazyglue holds the light bracket in place well enough to get the shell on. I actually rely upon the pressure from the shell on the bracket. ACC didn't hold at all of course, but the krazyglue keeps it steady. Notice in the photo that the bracket slips in behind the coupler box. That's a holding point. When the loco shell is put back on, the bottom of the shell sits on the light bracket shelf, another holding point.
Hope that helps
Regards,
Jonathan
When I have done Athearn units for DCC, I've never had to solder a wire to the trucks other side. I polish up the contact point between the frame and truck, drill and tap a 2-56 hole in a good spot on the frame, and attach the wire to that.
Remember the bottom motor clip touches the frame and that's how it gets current from the wheels for DC. It would need to be isolated from the frame for DCC, ie, removing the barbs and putting tape under the motor to isolate it.
I did the electrical tape part. If you connect a wire onto the frame, is the motor really isolated?
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on October 30, 2009, 07:42:08 AM
I did the electrical tape part. If you connect a wire onto the frame, is the motor really isolated?
Yes it is. When the motor is connected directly to the frame you can't install a decoder because you need the motor to connect to the decoder and the decoder to the rails. Running a wire from the motor to the frame is the same as a wire from the motor to the truck since athearn transfer the power through the frame. Since it is going through a wire you can splice in a decoder between the frame and motor.
OK, let me see if I get this. It does not matter if the current comes through the frame... so long as the decoder gets the current BEFORE it gets to the motor (makes sense now of course). So all the fancy rewiring I just did, will have to be done again if I ever decide to add decoders. Don't misunderstand my confusion. I just made a bunch of mediocre runners into much smoother runners, which I really appreciate (admittedly, it was fun). And I am now intimate with the inner workings of an HO diesel locomotive.
It just makes the dark side seem hard unless one only upgrades locos that are DCC ready in the first place.
Regards,
Jonathan
Not neccesarily, you can just splice in the decoder between the motor and the pickup.
Quote from: BestSnowman on October 30, 2009, 11:28:59 AM
Not neccesarily, you can just splice in the decoder between the motor and the pickup.
add to that statement, "if the one motor terminal" is isolated from the metal frame. some people have done exactly as your statement and smoked the decoder. never assume. you can always try your way and let us know ???
lex
a great site to check your work and other stuff is this
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/ (http://www.wiringfordcc.com/)