Hi
OK I am too excited and somewhat confused. I just bought #634 HO Wenonah House. I have read several articles on how to build them. Some places say paint first the build. Some say build first then paint.
I also tried a small area of my house paint. And I must admit it looks great.
Also would love any advice on building it. Like glue paint and stuff! Or what to do and not to do. I will say this the kit was expensive but it it beautiful!
Robert
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/634HOHouse.jpg)
Thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly, read the instructions. They are the experts. I've built several FSM kits and they were stunning when built. I read the instructions several times and took it one step at a time. When I got frustrated, I walked away for few minutes.
That is one beautiful looking house. I have never done a laser cut wood kit, but have learned a couple of tricks scratch building in wood.
Painting every little piece before gluing can be counter productive, depending on the type of paint. Usually the white glue I use sticks better to bare wood than to paint, particularly paint with any shine to it. But painting assemblies before adding them to the main structure save a lot of finicky masking. For example, I would guess that the porch roof is a separate assembly and can be built up, then painted, then added to the house.
Painting wood often raises the grain. So you may have to paint, then sand, then repaint.
One of the reasons I like working with wood is the harmless glues that you can use. I like the white glues - Weldbond, Bondfast, etc. To put it on in tiny quantities, I use a 3 or 5 cc syringe with a 16 gauge needle (large bore) needle with its tip ground off. Between applications of glue, I set it needle down in a jar with an inch or so of water in it. This keeps the tip from plugging. Next to the jar, I keep a Kleenex for wiping the tip of the needle to keep the water from diluting the glue. With white glue, if you make an error, you can usually take things apart with warm water. And white glue is a little more forgiving of slight errors in fit than yellow glue.
Jim
Jim gives good advice. You would want to paint the stone foundation or chimney assembly before attaching it to the building. The same for windows and doors, paint first, add your glazing then after the walls are painted, attach the windows and doors.
Painting beforehand is generally better, just try to avoid getting paint on a glue surface. Yes, glue sticks to wood better than paint. I use a lot of white and yellow glue. The pink flamingo glue from Northeastern also works great.
8)
when gluing with white or yellow glue, put a little weight on the assembly to prevent warping. a few people have had a structure ruined by warping caused by water based glue. again, take your time. I have found helpful hints on wood structure building by searching the internet. try to read the instructions before building the kit. it sure helps.
lex
I prefer the yellow Elmer's to the white version. I put a blob on a piece of old bathroom tile (glazed side up) and then apply the glue with a fine (oo or smaller) paint brush. Sometimes I even dilute the glue by using a wet brush. I also keep water and a paper towel at hand. Once I apply the glue I put the brush in water then wipe it clean.
A little white or yellow glue can go a long way.
The other posters give good advice. If I am assembling a building that will be painted, I seal the inside with a sealer, otherwise the walls can bow and warp.
This is a subject that takes years to perfect (although you have done an outstanding job on that catalog home). Building a wooden kit is like politics...everyone has their own opinions. The latest issue of
Model Railroader has a good article on building a laser-cut wood kit (November 2009 issue) and would be a good place to start. As was mentioned before, reading (and
rereading) the kit's directions makes a big difference. I highly recommend Scott Mason's DVDs on the subject...lots of tips to learn from one of the experts...I review all 3 disks at least once a year.
A couple of pointers: To forestall warpage, paint seal both sides of the walls and place some weight on them overnight. I use square stripwood framing on the insides to reinforce the walls and roof materials to provide a joint with more surface area as well as prevent wall/roof warpage. Use glue sticks to attach laser-cut shingles (and signage) because glue sticks have a very low moisture content and will not effect the wall basswood or (usually) cardstock roof underlayment. Weather your 'creations' appropriately...try to stay away from having structures that look like they were used in a coal yard (unless they were) or have that spartan 'new' look.
Start with a smaller, easier kit and experiment. Tab-and-slot construction makes construction easier [Northeastern Scale Models]. Tab-and-slot makes keeping the walls square a lot easier...not essential after you get some practice and use a gluing jig or a couple of machinist's squares. Be sure you work on a level surface...I recommend using a good sized piece of window glass as a bench top work surface.
Here is a fairly simple laser-cut kit I completed a while ago. This one is from B.T.S. and is weathered to approximate the original Hopewell Junction, NY post office as it appeared in an 1895 black and white photograph.
(http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp38/Allegro34/Structures/PostOfficefrontviewB12222008.jpg)
I can only stress that a long period of practice and research will pay big dividends in the future.
Regards,
Ray
Everyone
I am really glad that I asked. I read and re read the instructions. And probably will reread again as I do the model. What I have done so far is just paint the four side of the main house. Okay I used our house exterior paint. And I am glad I read the instructions as it did curl the wood. Well this evening it is completely flat. I did let it dry first then weight it down a bit. The trim is next but I cannot find our house trim paint.
I did not see any raised grain and I do not think I will need to sand it. I must admit it looks beautiful!
I paid $51 for the kit but my hobby shop guy lets me do a modified layaway. I pay 1/2 in cash and I get a month or so to pay it off. During that time he even allows me to make other purchases. So I know I could of bought this cheaper but I like to help out my local Hobby shopand he like to help his customers that he trusts too.
As for glue I have Titebond III waterproof Ultimate Wood Glue I am going to give it a try.
As for painting the inside I may paint it white and maybe make two separate stories and add lights! But I be I could do that later.
Any advice on making the Chimney look real?
Below is my house and colors.
Robert
PS The November issue of Model Railroader is what inspired me to finally do this
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/House.jpg)
Robert, you have a beautiful - well kept - home. I like the landscaping...just enough without being overbearing. Regarding the trim paint on your model: try a craft/art supply store (Hobby Lobby et. al.) and get some acrylic paints. By mixing two or more of them you should be able to approximate the color desired. Acrylic paints (sometimes called craft paints) are sold in plastic bottles and come in a bewildering array of colors and shades. Sometimes craft paints can be had for almost nothing at yard and garage sales. BTW: I don't sand my painted structures either. If someone notices that fact; I simply ask them to step back a foot or two.
Regards,
Ray
Speaking of paint you can go to a store like Michael's and buy artists acrylics. The tubes are pricey but they last a long time and are water soluable when wet. You won't get railroady colors like depot buff but you can experiment. If you do try acrylics remember to get a tube of titanium white to dilute the colors. Otherwise you will have cartoon colors.
The Titebond glue will work just fine. Again, I suggest you dilute it a tad. You also may have to sand paint off corners because the glue won't adhere otherwise.
One last thing - I find emery boards indispensable when I work on wooden kits. Stores like Walgreens, CVS and Duane Reade are all good places to buy them. They are inexpensive and some brands come in different grits.
I think it's mandatory to paint both sides of any wood kit. You said you noticed a bit of warpage - it will return and get worse if you don't paint the inside. It doesn't have to be a super job - cheap white or black spray paint will do just great. Since you've already painted the exterior, put tape over ever opening to avoid overspray before painting.
Don't forget the roof pieces, too - both sides.
Gene
As a sideline issue. I bought a Laser-Art kit of an Aladdin catalog home. The price of the kit was $19.98. The price of the actual house in1917 was $207. So we are paying aprox 10% of the price of the original house for the kit. I wonder how much longer it will be unlil we pay $207 for the kit?
Hi,
you can go to home depot or other paint suppiers and get small bottles of any color sample paints for very cheap the selection is incredible.
NM
PS. On my lighted buildings I always paint the first inside coat black then apply the the finish coat to keep the structure from "Glowing' when lit.
Everyone
Again I feel lucky to found this forum. What great information did I get.
Well The model is 95% done. A few areas need minor attention.
Things that I learned.
Read & Reread the instructions. (Thanks for everyone on that & I did read them)
Take your time. It is not a race.
I like wood model building better.
Get a syringe for certain areas for gluing. (Thanks Jim)
Glue
I used was Elmer's Carpenter's Glue and Super Glue Control Gel. The Super Glue allowed me to get pinpoint accuracy on some minor details.
Paints
The main color of the house was actually my house paint by Sherman Williams. The rest of the paints were from Glidden trail sizes from Home Depot. (Thanks NM) I did paint both the outside and inside of the home.
Lighting
Will be in the future. I plan on making a mock interior of the home with lighting. It will be separate from the house. Basically the House will go on top of the lighted interior.
Tough areas.
The dormer on the top of the house was the hardest part. It did not marry well to the roof. I had to use putty to fill in the area to make it look good.
The windows were tough as some of the parts came off when I pealed back the backing back.
Part of the instruction's I ignored.
For now i did not do the seem caps as I was able to make the seems looks good on their own.
Parts of the instructions I goofed.
Some may notice that the fireplace is on the right and the door is on the left I glued on the wrong parts. Once I realized this I l dry fitted everything to see if i could continue. Lucky for me it worked out.
I am very happy with the results and am looking forward to my next wood building. But the next building will be a plastic Lifelike Church.
I have a few photos below to show the nearly finished product. The roof needs some final touch ups.
Again thanks to all for giving me the confidence on doing this!
Robert
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/TheHOWenonahHouse016.jpg)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/TheHOWenonahHouse015.jpg)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/TheHOWenonahHouse019.jpg)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac56/Robertj668/TheHOWenonahHouse021.jpg)
If this is your first wood kit,you'll be an expert in no time. Very Good Job! Jerry
Jerry
1st time. I was never any good at building any models but at 41 I wanted to try again. The roof is where I need to do the touch ups. Make it look more weathered.
SEE! It was so bad. ;)
Nice Job,
A little dullkote on the roof to take away the shininess and some tissue paper curtains in the windows and your set.
NM
Very nice, indeed! Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Sincerely,
Jonathan
I will echo everyone elses' accolades...well done (and much, much better than my first laser-cut attempt). I would suggest that you either: 1) dispense with the plastic kit-supplied shingles and use some shingles from Northeastern Scale Models or Paper Creek, or 2) paint over the kit shingles with an appropriate flat paint. This super model could use a little LIGHT weathering (a subject unto itself). Regarding the interior: Definitely paint the inside of the structure (although black really isn't necessary unless you plan on installing a very bright light...which would look ridiculous. An alternative approach would be to install view blocks (pieces of either black thin foamcore or black construction paper (doubled because it will 'sag' over time). By installing the first floor view block in one diagonal direction, and the second floor block on the opposite diagonal, each blocker can be joined (glue a stained toothpick from the bottom blocker to the top one) and supported on the mid-span.
Great job! Houses are tough because, if they are close to the front of the layout, they really require a detailed interior. BTW: this interior can be made out of hand drawn pictures and wall surfaces that are cut out and glued into 3-D 'furniture'. Remember, the only view the public has of a house interior is through those tiny windows (stores w/large display windows are a different matter). I remember building a small Cape Cod style home, for a client, and used living room (etc) scenes cut out of Better Homes & Gardens magazines...'looked super from the outside.
Keep up the excellent work,
Ray
If all else fails,,a little bit of 87 octane gas, a match, WOOOOFF! ;D
Once the flames are out put it up on the layout surrounded by some
fire fighting trucks 8)
Safety Tip-Remember folks, this should be done outdoors!
Or REAL fire trucks might have to show up.
Have a garden hose or bucket o'water handy.
For now the house sits on a shelf in my "office" waiting for a prime piece of realestate. Then I will make my final improvements. I will soon be able to work on the railroad itself as I am able to pick up things now (Neck Surgery 2 months ago).
Ray
Do you have any examples of interiors I think I know what you are talking about.
Thank you Everyone!
Robert
Well Robert, off hand I don't have anything to show you (something like that I don't keep around). Just scan a scene out of one of your wife's 'home' magazines and scale it down to the proper size. Another source of interiors is the Internet...thousands of websites that feature interior shots. Again, I would scale these to fit your application.
The last choice is to hand draw/color (you did keep your crayons didn't you?) the walls and furniture. Some cutting, coloring, and pasting will produce very serviceable interior furniture that will look great through those tiny windows. I think there was an article in either Model Railroader or Railroad Model Craftsman on this very topic (sorry, but I don't remember which or when).
Spend an evening scanning (or drawing) and see what you come up with. You might just be surprised at how good it will look. The nice thing is that all you have invested is some of your time and some computer paper (unless you decide to print some scenes out on photographic paper...really a waste).
You can make some convincing curtains out of tissue paper (the wrapping kind...the sneeze kind is too fragile) and some white glue. After cutting very roughly to size, soak the tissue paper with white glue and 'bunch up'. When the glue dries, your curtains will look exactly like folded cloth...again try this on the kitchen table and experiment until you get the 'look' you desire.
Good luck and have fun.
Ray
Assuming that the roof is not fastened down yet, two things you might want to add are curtains/shades and a view block - unless you are going to build interior walls. They will add class to a good job!
Gene