Not my best shot at creating a subject title, but it suffices. I have the 455 D&RGW version of the K-27 and would like to replace the lettering on the tender to Rio Grande Southern the way it looked before the accident and replacement of the cab. Does anyone know the best way to remove the lettering without damaging the black paint?
Thank you.
I use 91% alcohol on a q-tip works well but some time leaves a little haze, but I always spray a coat testors dullkote over my locos after I re-letter them and the haze has always vanished. I am sure you will get more suggestions
NM
rrj,
Just go to search icon at the top of this page, click on it and then type in "remove lettering", lots of help.
Chuck
Hello, I don't know if you have considered it, but to make a model of RGS 455 before the accident you will need a different cab and a different tender. Both were replaced after the accident when she rolled over after a runaway accident.
I have seen photos of 455 with the RGS "sunset herald" from before the crash. There is a lot of info. on the RGS on internet. I used an unlettered black K-27 with plough and bought a decal set to make my 455. There are probably other changes to make if you wanted to make an exact model.
RGS fan in Norway
Looks like I was a bit quick off the mark there; I guess you have the green D&RGW version so the cab & tender will be in "before crash" style. I'd forgotten that this was one of the other options to make a pre-crash 455.
I really like the K-27 models. All in all the best locos I have.
Sorry for not responding sooner. Thank you to everyone for your great responses. Yes, I do have a green-boilered K-27. Love it. I have Ferrell's book, Silver San Juan, The Rio Grande Southern, and while the loco may not have retained its green boiler jacket by the time it made it to the RGS from the D&RGW, who can tell?
I love this hobby and appreciate everyone's willingness to help. Happy railroading to all!
Well, I can say with absolutely certainty that my usual dousing of "Super Clean" degreaser doesn't make a blasted dent on the lettering. I just tried last night. I'll try the alcohol next, my can was empty. A haze I can live with. That's what weathering's for!
Later,
K
I have already ordered decals through eBay, but I haven't touched the tender yet. I wanted to make sure I had the decals in hand before making the attempt. Please keep us posted concerning your success, or lack thereof, dare I say, Kevin. As always, thanks to everyone.
Tried the denatured alcohol. Alas, "lack thereof" in terms of success seems to have been more the case. It attacked the black paint as well as the white lettering, so I just bit the bullet, grabbed some super fine steel wool and had at the lettering, confident that I was going to have to repaint anyway.
I decided to be a bit lazy on the repaint, though, and just brush-painted ModelFlex "Flat Black" onto the tender and side of the cab. Note, "flat black" is something of a misnomer. This stuff dries nice and glossy. Don't know if it's a bad bottle, since I'm relatively new to using that line of paints. It laid down nice and flat, with only mild variations in finish that will easily be masked by the weathering. If I were to airbrush it on, it would have been very even. I'm going for a grungier look on this project, so I could get away with it.
The decals laid down very nicely on this, and the film is almost invisible. Once I finish, I'll post photos.
Later,
K
Wow, I surprized to here it attacked the paint. I have never had that happen. Maybe backmann or China has changed the paints they aree using.
I think much depends on the paint. My general course of action when painting is to just sand and repaint anyway, but in this case since the loco was already black, I figured I'd just try to see if I could remove the lettering. I did a 4-4-0 a few years ago (red SPC version) and the alcohol attacked that paint, too. That's when I tried the Super Clean degreaser, which worked great for the gold lettering on the loco.
BTW, I weathered the tender last night... looks like a million bucks! Any of the subtle variations in the brush-painted black vanished. (And it's not heavily weathered, either.) I know, I know... photos... All in due time.
Later,
K
You took the words rightout of my mouth. ;) Thank you, Kevin. I'm looking forward to the photos.
on bachman big haulers i use dot-4 brake fluid
soak it on with a rag for awhile
wipe it off
maybe two-three applications
someone else here said ace hardware "oops"
i haven't tried it, look thru history
Thank you. I'll look into your suggestions as well. As soon as I get the decals I ordered and have exercized what courage I have. I'll post the results.
Kevin, I'm still looking forward to your photos. Weathering a lciomotive is somthing that that I have not yet tried.
Ask and ye shall receive:
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR10/TRR1022.jpg)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR10/TRR1015.jpg)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR10/TRR1001.jpg)
These shots show what I find most effective about using washes for weathering. From the side, the tender looks quite dull, flat, and dirty, but when viewed on an angle, the sheen of the paint beneath the dirt still shows through like it does on the prototype. Can't do that with dull coat.
More photos and a full account of the loco can be found here: http://tinyurl.com/TRRMikado10 (http://tinyurl.com/TRRMikado10)
Later,
K
Thank you, Kevin. The photos look great. I'll try to do the same with mine and share the results. It's a great hobby.
What did you use to remove the lettering from the tender. This looks outstanding and, as always, well documented. I am looking forward to reviewing the information you include via the URL when I have a moment. Thank you, again, Kevin.
I ended up using the denatured alcohol and some ultra-fine steel wool. I never noticed until after I took the photos it kind of took a bit of the tops of some of the rivets off in the process:
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR10/TRR1001.jpg)
But from any angle but this extreme side you can't notice it, and you only notice it when staring at it for a while. If I were you, I'd perhaps try brake fluid to see if that softens the paint up any better, so you don't have to scrub quite as hard with the steel wool. Might make a bit of a difference, at least.
BTW, on the cab, I just repainted the lower panel on the side, not the entire cab.
Later,
K
Most excellent! Thank you. I'll keep y'all posted. Now, where did I put m'courage?
OK. No more procrastination, I received the decals. I'll give this project a go over the Thanksgiving Day weekend and post the results.
Dumb question: What do you use to remove the dot-4 brake fluid residue? Thanks.
Super Clean?
I haven't the foggiest. It's easily been 20 years since I used brake fluid to remove paint. Sorry 'bout that.
Later,
K
Well...I can tell you what not to use and certainly to read the instructions first...or PHEW! That was close. :o
To remove the lettering paint, my local hardware store recommended M.E.K. Because I am cautious at heart, (please note the span of time between my last entry and this one) I read the can's label where it stated that it may damage plactics and to try it on an inconspicuous place. Using a Q-tip I dabbed a little of it on an out-of-the-way place on the inside of the tender. Yikes! It started to eat the plastic! :'(
So, I'll check on the dot 4 brake fluid or just bite the bullet and use the manual method with the fine steel wool. More later. Happy New Year!
Quote from: rrjTooele on December 31, 2009, 07:04:46 PM...my local hardware store recommended M.E.K. ... Yikes! It started to eat the plastic! :'(
They recommended MEK!? Good Heavens! Boy am I glad you were cautious. That would have been quite disastrous. MEK is a solvent for plastics. Many modelers use it--quite successfully--for gluing styrene bits together in modeling. The good news is that you've got a lifetime supply of plastic solvent cement now.
I'm really glad to hear disaster was averted. Remind me not to ask them for advice on how to unclog a toilet. :P
Later,
K
M.E.K. fumes cause neurological damage which can lead to tremors/shakiness not something anybody wants, muchless a modeller.
Bad bad stuff for the typical person to use since it also can cause the same effects when absorbed through the skin.
NM
I used a Q-tip to apply the stuff in a small and inconsequential place. No real harm, no foul, and I was able to return the stuff to the store for a full refund. Whew!
Now, having recently read a post on the ON30 side of this site, I learned about Chameleon which is plastic friendly, comes highly recommended, and is carried by one of my "local" (50 miles away) hobby shops. I will be in that area later this weekend and will pick it up at that time. Those who commented on the product practically swooned over it. (I hope it wasn't from the left over M.E.K. fumes they may have been exposed to before finding Chameleon.) ;) I'll keep you all posted.
Thank you all again for your interest and educational/entertaining comments.